Braemar - the end

After a good night’s sleep (FO beds are wonderful!), it was time to have breakfast and explore Rouen. Once again, we had both been here before but felt the town deserved a further visit. FO operate a slightly complicated shuttle bus system. We first had to get a shuttle pass from reception – these were free for those who had booked Freedom fares (us) or chargeable to those on cheaper fares. Once we had those (a different one for each of the two days we were there), we then had to go get a shuttle ticket from the tours desk once we were ready to depart. This worked exactly like a tender ticket and saved standing around on the quayside for the bus. The shuttle took about 10 minutes and dropped us off beside the river close to the famous Cathedral.

We intended to visit the Cathedral again and then head up towards the clock and explore the side streets off.

 

In fact we came out through a different door in the church and spotted yet more intriguing narrow streets lined with the half-timbered medieval and 17^th century houses which fill the central part of Rouen, so that was the way we started off.

 

 













One street had several small shops selling the striking Faience pottery that is made in Rouen (not dissimilar from that made in the Breton town of Quimper). Nice as it was, the prices were too high to persuade us to take some home. In one of the shops the owner was moving a shelf to make room for some more pieces, when there was a horrible crash and some slid off it to the floor! Thank goodness we were nowhere near. On the other hand, the home ware stores were filled with temptations, from the natural linen towels with red embroidery to the Christmas decorations filling the shops; pretty glassware with coloured bases to fabulous tapestry cushions with designs of liners and animals. After walking to the end of the old buildings, we headed back and sat with a coffee in a small square in front of the Church of St Maclou.

Suitably restored we set off in the direction of our original plan. The pretty Christmas Market was just being set up in front of the Cathedral but would not open for another week. The shops in this direction were more common chain stores – C&A, Manfield, Bata etc. there was a small street market where we stopped to buy some Neufchatel cheese – a bargain at 1 euro 10 cents. The flower stall beside the renowned Gros Horlorge was so beautiful with bunches of Amaryllis in soft pink colours and glass bowls of moss and roses.

Once we reached the Joan of Arc church we bought a pastry (Napolitan for me, Apricot for Caryll) and found a seat by the Metro station to sit and eat. By then I was walked out so we headed back towards the shuttle stop, via a few shops of course.

There was only a short wait before the bus came and took us back to the port. Caryll headed off for a quick game of quoits while I set off to methodically photograph Braemar. There was still a lot of work being done and a large quantity of glass panels was stashed at the stern ready to be installed – on deck?? The brown rattan deck furniture looked new and very stylish but I still do not like Fred Olsen sun beds – aluminium frame with white plastic strips. The games deck is right in the bow and is a great place to stand and watch a port arrival if not too windy or cold. In fact we stood there for sailaway for a while, until we neared the big grain mill and an ominous cloud started to waft our way.
 
All Braemar photos are here -

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/sharonsshiptravels/sets/72157649615520625/

After the photo shoot and a short nap, Caryll and I went for tea in the Palms before grabbing a coat to watch sailaway. Back on board time was 4.45pm. Then started the announcements for four missing people!  Then it was reduced to two missing people. As we were standing in the atrium we could see what was happening and hear the walkie talkies. It appeared that they called the missing couple on their mobiles and were told they were on their way. One youngish couple turned up in a taxi but there was no sign of the others. Just as we feared we might leave without them, they appeared at the far end of the security compound. The security officer sent someone to let them in and they walked up the gangway with no attempt at speed. We can only assume they looked at the sailing time rather than the all aboard time! We eventually left at 5.45, lifting off the berth and starting the six-hour transit back down the Seine. It was a calm crossing again and we arrived back in Southampton at about 6am.

 

 

 

Disembarkation was by deck (luggage out by midnight) and we were off the ship at 8.30 (I had to wait until Caryll’s deck was called).  

All in all a delightful short break on a very attractive ship which restored my faith in Fred Olsen (although I still do not like Balmoral!). I would not hesitate to sail on Braemar again, although maybe not for a long cruise as facilities and entertainment is limited.

Braemar continued...

The next morning (21st November) I woke to see we were already in the Seine. After breakfast in the Palms Café, I went out to stand on Marquee Deck to watch the river transit. Caryll soon joined me and I had another coffee while she had breakfast in the Grampian restaurant. We both then stood at the stern on the prom deck to watch us sail through the Normandy countryside. Unfortunately the weather was grey, damp and misty although you could see patches of blue sky above the cloud layer. People ashore and on the ferries waved at us as we sailed past, a few sounding their horns at the ship or stopping to take a photo of us. There were hedgerows and trees laden with mistletoe, half-timbered tumbledown barns and cottages, small towns and ruined abbeys and castles.

 

I always find it strange sailing past town and seeing traffic and people going to work or shopping, whilst sailing on an ocean-going vessel!

 

As we neared the industrial outskirts of Rouen, Braemar was spun 180 degrees and reversed to her berth on the seaward side of the new lifting bridge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our tour to Honfleur was leaving at 2.15 so we had lunch in the Palms Café before going down to the show lounge to get our tour stickers. It was not long before we were asked to go down to the coaches. Unfortunately it was one of the high-level coaches – great views but very steep stairs and excruciatingly limited legroom, at least on the nearside. I have visited Honfleur once before and loved it and Caryll had always wanted to see it so I was happy to return. We followed our guide round from the Salt Warehouse and through the medieval streets as far as the church and then had an hour of free time to return to the harbour and take photos of the pretty shops.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



Unlike my last visit, early in the day with blue skies, this time we were able to watch the sun slowly set over the harbour – a beautiful scene. I bought a bottle of Calvados with raspberries and we explored the shops and streets north of the harbour. It was dark when we set off to return to the coach for the hour and a quarter drive back to Rouen and Braemar.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It was our only formal night that evening – a shame since many people were ashore in Paris. In view of this, in lieu of a Captain’s welcome party, free drinks were available in any of the bars for half an hour before our respective dinner sittings.

That night we were back to set table dining and we were taken to table 52 in the Thistle Restaurant – right at the stern with a view of the wake – perfect (even though we were in port on most of our evenings). One of the nicest things about Braemar were the lovely passengers. There was a good mix of age range, which I wasn’t expecting from Fred!, but may have been because of the unusual itinerary. Whenever we sat to eat – open sitting breakfast or lunch, at dinner, we were all soon chatting like old friends, even in the bars. It was certainly a refreshing change from other ships where passengers tend to regard solo women with a degree of suspicion!!