Coming soon....

Phew - well having finally managed to finish my South American adventure blog, I can get back to future events and publications. The first good news to share is that the Cunard book is finished and has gone to print.

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1445646099

It will be available from Amazon and all other bookshops from April 15th. Although we wrote it to coincide with the 175 anniversary, the subject matter is broader than just a history of the company and is ordered much like our Year in the Life of the P&O Fleet, except it is in seasons rather than month by month. We have also contrasted some operations of today with those of some years ago; for example a current turnaround day in Southampton with one in New York in the 1950s.
 

Secondly I have produced two more calendars of my photographs. The first is of images taken in the Antarctic Peninsular this January.

 

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1325055697

 

The second is of photographs I took in the fascinating Medina of Tetouan on my cruise on Adonia last August.

 

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1325056901 

 

As for getting back on board a ship - it is going to be a busy month or so. At the end of April I have an overnight "experience" on board Saga Pearl II followed the next weekend with a three-night cruise on Anthem of the Seas. Two highly contrasting vessels, on which I will of course report back here! The same day we disembark Anthem I have an invitation to the 175 anniversary luncheon on QM2 with champagne reception, lunch and commemorative book. That is also the day of the Ocean Liner Society's Ship Show in Southampton, so with all three Cunarders in port together with Anthem and Balmoral, I suspect the city will be a tad crowded!!

South America - the end

Sunday 1 Feb

It’s going home day!!  We got up at 8am and had a leisurely breakfast. I had intended to wear my going-home clothes but it was so hot I got a t-shirt out of the case. The sun was bathing the slopes of the Andes viewed from out hotel room. We were being picked up at noon, but about 10.30 I got a call from the driver checking this was OK so I asked for earlier if possible.  Downstairs we checked out and then sat in the foyer and waited till our driver appeared at 11.30. It was only a 15-20 minute drive to the airport so we were there in plenty of time. We checked our big cases in (mine was 23.4kg but went through OK, possibly as Caryll’s was underweight). We had not been able to print off our boarding passes but I had checked in online and got an SMS text with our passes. These were printed off and given to us by which time we had a couple of hours wait until boarding began.  Once we had taken off (45 mins late), we were asked to keep our seat belts on until we had flown over the Andes – I hope this was only due to thermals and possible turbulence!! 

 

 

 

 

It was a three hour flight till we landed again at Sao Paulo. Here, and much to our surprise, we had to go through bag screening again and our water was confiscated! More expense and a long wait for our 23.50 flight to Heathrow. Again – boarding was delayed but once seated and sorted out, we dozed for much of the time, interrupted only for meals (dinner was a revolting gluey pasta, wine, cheese and biscuits and a cake, breakfast a hot cheese and ham roll, juice, biscuits and jam and melon). The legroom was excellent but seat width restricting. Despite the delays we arrived pretty much on time but it was a very long walk from Terminal 2 where we landed to Terminal 3 for immigration, customs and baggage retrieval. I noticed my big case appeared to have been opened or else I didn’t lock it correctly on leaving the hotel. Our driver was waiting for us, taking our cases and leading us to the car. By 4pm we arrived at Hythe and it took me 3 hours to drive home from there.

Summary – Zaandam

At  61,000 grt Zaandam is a lovely size of ship. On HAL, passenger numbers are deliberately kept low so there were never problems finding seats in the theatre, on deck or when tendering. There was excellent service throughout, accompanied by extra touches like orchids on the Lido and all bar tables, nibbles and hors d’oevres with pre-dinner drinks and happy hour drinks – buy one, get another for $1. There was a good variety of bars, all with live music - cocktail pianist, classical duo, guitarist etc. Impressive level of service – when I asked for Prosecco in Crows Nest one evening, I didn’t realise they didn’t stock it there – the steward went to the Ocean Bar to get it! If you wanted a drink in the Lido Café or on deck, you could ask any waiter and they would bring it – you didn’t have to wait for a bar steward.

 

 

Not quite so happy with the food though. The breakfast buffet was good and varied with freshly-made omelettes, pancakes, Belgian waffles etc always available. Lemonade was free all day as was ice cream. It was the repetitive (IMO) evening menus in the Rotterdam Dining Room I was not so impressed with. Take away the “always available” items of oven roast chicken, grilled salmon and beef loin (all of which were delicious), there was not a great deal of choice or variation – another chicken dish, pasta and meat. Quality was always good but I found many dishes a little too spicy for my taste. Desserts were typically American but the cheese platter was poor – four or so pieces of a variety of cheeses and a couple of biscuits. Sadly America can not do cheese!! One of the daily options at the sandwich bar in the Lido was “Cheddar Cheese”. In my experience proper Cheddar cheese is not the colour of Red Leicester and the texture of Dairylea slices!  As you left the restaurant there was a trolley with mints, ginger, dates and other sweets to complete your meal. Deck space was very good with lots of quiet areas to sit and relax and an open observation deck just under the bridge. When scenic cruising they opened the bow to the passengers as well.

 

 

Would I go again - like a shot!

 

South America - part 16 Santiago day 2

Saturday 31 Jan

Up early yet again as we are being picked up at 8.50am for a tour to a Chilean winery. The minivan arrived on time for my friend and I as well as another couple from the ship. We drove out through Santiago – the roads were quiet as it was Saturday and no one was out and about that early.

View from our hotel room

We arrived at the Concha Y Toro Winery about 50 minutes later.  It was another very hot and sunny day and the clear blue skies were stunning. While we were waiting for the next tour in English, I spotted a couple of condors flying high over the foothills but couldn’t get a photo – a pity as the sun was highlighting their wings a golden brown.

 

Soon it was time to set off, firstly through beautiful gardens to the summer house of the founder. We were surrounded by nattering parakeets and Southern Lapwing on the grass. Next to an area with young vines of different grapes.

 

Then it was time for our first tasting - a lovely fruity Chardonnay. We were then led to the modern temperature-controlled cellar to see the barrels of aging wines before walking down a level to the original cellars containing Casillero del Diablo wines.

 

 

The legend of the devil living there was begun after a theft of wines in the 19^th century. A son e lumiere told the story. After that, another tasting of two red wines and then it was time to return to the hotel. After freshening up we set off back to the shopping mall and through to the park behind, although it was very hot again! I wanted to see the aviary. But after walking in all directions to find it, it was a disappointment in the end. However, as we were looking, a bright green parrot flew up into a tree behind.

 

 

After that we stopped at various seats, including in the rose garden to see if any birds would come to us!

 

We photographed a few of the brown long-legged birds and doves but it was only on walking back we saw the parrots again, right at the top of the trees and so well disguised they were almost impossible to photograph.  We stopped in the mall again for a cold drink, before walking back to the hotel. We had decided to eat dinner there that night, so started with our complimentary drink of a pisco sour  - the Chilean brandy cocktail.  This was served with nuts and crisps. Then to dinner out on the terrace – a crab ravioli for me with a bottle of Chilean Sauvignon, which we took back to our room to finish.

 

South America - part 16

Thursday 29th January

 

It was lovely to be able to lie-in. Once I was dressed I went to Deck 3 at the stern to the bird-watchers groups to ask Chris Wilson about the bird in Puerto Chacobuco. He identified it as a Caracara. Then went to find my friend and have some breakfast. Other than that is was a very lazy day. I went to the  Zaandam Regatta but there was only one entry! Then to a presentation of the ship's video of our voyage. I succumbed to the Antarctic section as it summed up our experience so well. Then it was time for some packing before sitting out at the stern in hot sunshine. We came joint first in team trivia and then at dinner I finally got my birthday cake and birthday song from the waiters.

 

Friday 30 January

The alarm woke us at 7am so we got up, dressed and packed hand luggage. Next came breakfast. After that we both took some photos of Valpariso, although it was a misty morning.

 

Disembarkation was roughly on time and we were called about 9.15. On leaving the ship (down a very steep gangway) we had to first board a shuttle bus to take us quite a long way to the cruise terminal. There we had to queue while our hand luggage was sniffer dog checked and scanned. Then we were free to collect our cases and leave the terminal. Outside a man was holding up a board with my name. He took our cases and led us to a large minivan with two Australian couples already inside. It was an hour and a half drive out through Valpariso (with what looked like favelas, perched high on the clifftops) and across two valleys to Santiago.

 

We were the first to be dropped off at the Kennedy Hotel. A bellboy took our luggage while we checked in, the others were booked at the Sheraton. A glass lift took us to the eleventh floor. Our room 1106, was lovely with two double beds, plenty of storage and a marble bathroom with two basins, bidet and bath. After sorting ourselves out we went downstairs to ask the concierge for a map and bought HoHo bus tickets from him. We only that afternoon and the following day in Santiago so wanted to make the most of our time. It was quite a long walk to the HoHo bus pick up, up the road and over a high footbridge spanning two dual carriageways. Then up some steps through a smart shopping mal to the car park and bus stop. The bus ride took around two hours straight but we got off for a while in a big square by the cathedral and had a look round. It was Saturday and very busy.

 

Once back in the shopping mall we found a lovely seafood restaurant for a meal (I plumped for the Mahi Mahi) with Chilean wine. Then a stroll back to the hotel and bed.

 

South America - part 15 Puerto Montt

Wednesday 28 January - Puerto Montt

 

We woke to a beautiful morning thankfully as we have our last private tour today! After a cabin breakfast at 7.10 my friend went to check on the outside temperature while I swallowed an arsenal of pills (for knees, hip and cough!). We all met in the Mix Bar as usual and waited half an hour till our tender was called.

 

It was a short ride to a floating pontoon and then all our bags were inspected  again. I declared my cough sweets but they were deemed OK. All unprocessed food is banned ashore.  This time Patricia from Denis Purtov Excursions was waiting for us and we split into three groups; we headed to a Mercedes minivan.

 

Our first stop for photos was in Puerto Montt itself. As a man accosted one of our group he was very quickly intercepted and marched off by police.

 

We then drove out of the city to a viewpoint over Punta Arenas. Next came a lama (and toilet) stop, another for a volcano, and then to the national park. A short walk through woodland (one of our party saw a Magellanic Woodpecker but I missed it) and we came to the beautiful Petrohue Falls. The scenery of lava, pounding turquoise water and a snow-capped volcano was truly amazing and the clear blue sky only added to the majesty.  

 

I bought a locally made copper ring set with polished river stone and lapis lazuli - all mined in the area. Next came a drive to the Green Lagoon and Emerald Lake. Here we again had a short walk down to the water. On our left was a wall made from pumice and other volcanic rocks and in a gap we could just see a baby bird squawking from its nest.

 

On our return we had a 20 minute stop for an empanada and coke, then to Puerto Varas to browse the craft markets before returning to ship with 40 minutes to spare until the last tender.

I returned for drink and change as it had been unexpectedly hot and I had too much on even without my jacket.

Went to trivia but only four of us there. I thought I woud ltry the national drink of Chile - a pisco sour, which was delicious. Then out on deck as we sailed, for views of yet more volcanos.

 

 

There was a great Chilean deck barbeque that evening so we ate dinner in the sun out on deck.

That evening HAL provided a complimentary cocktail (or two!) in the show to round off our Antarctic Voyage. We have a sea day tomorrow, then Valparaiso where we disembark.