Journal – Aurora World Cruise 2017
Sunday 8 January 2017
My taxi arrived just before 2pm and the driver loaded all my luggage
– four big bags plus cabin case and camera case! We drove my usual route
arriving at my friend's around 4.30. This gave us time for a coffee before we went
to an Epiphany Carol Service. This was very nice and set me up perfectly for
travelling the world.
Monday 9 January 2017
Given the now two lots of luggage, we had booked a wheelchair taxi. However, the driver was horrified and
expressed doubt that the luggage now sitting in the hall was going to fit.
It
did! Just! We arrived at Mayflower terminal and retrieved our hand luggage
before going to check in. This was quick and efficient and we walked straight
on board, leaving our cabin cases in the cabin before heading to the Alexandria
restaurant for our Baltic Peninsular lunch. By the time we came back down, our cases had
not only arrived but been put into our cabin! Hector, our steward, introduced
himself and then we tried to make some order in our unpacking. It was chaos!
At least we had sufficient
hangers though as I had brought a lot of plastic ones of my own. Muster drill
was at 4.45, after which we went out on deck to witness our big sailaway with
fireworks. After the show I came indoors to change for dinner. We are on a
solos table of eight with one empty seat. Four of them are only going as far as Dubai.
Tuesday 10 January 2017 at sea
Weather: Showers, good visibility (poor in showers),
overcast
Temperature: 11C
Wind: Force 7
Sea state: Rough
Temperature: 11C
Wind: Force 7
Sea state: Rough
A miserable bumpy start to our adventure. Spent much of the
day sorting the cabin and finding homes for everything. Went to the Solo
travellers meet but not many people there. I had a room service lunch which arrived an
hour late due to them mis-hearing the cabin number. Managed to get to dinner
however, and the syndicate quiz afterwards.
Wednesday 11 January at sea
Weather: Dry, good visibility, clear skies
Temperature: 17C
Wind: Force 4
Sea state: Slight
Temperature: 17C
Wind: Force 4
Sea state: Slight
Had a breakfast of croissant and juice before going to the
solos meet. There were a lot more people than yesterday and spent an hour
chatting to people, including Irene, Heather, Rosemary and John. Heather gave
me details of a tour she had done on Orkney, afterwards I went to make a spa
appointment for a manicure and get a new card as mine had stopped working.
After having my nails done and lunch , I came to the cabin and tried
to complete the unpacking, although I seem to be a few coat hangers short – I
was sure I had some spare ones left. I then sat on the promenade deck. The
weather is so much better than yesterday. We are now heading down the coast of Northern
Spain and Portugal. The sea is calmer and the ship is making good speed after
our unscheduled stop this morning in Vigo to offload a medical emergency
patient. It gave us a nice view of CMV's Astoria though.
The North Atlantic is still grey and choppy but patches of blue sky
are allowing the sun to make a brief appearance and when it does it is
noticeably warmer. I sat on the promenade deck with my eyes shut listening to
the sounds of the sea. It always surprises me just how loud the roar of the
ocean actually is, discounting the chatter of passengers getting to know each
other and walking to and fro behind me.
As Aurora ploughs ever further south towards Gibraltar and
then turns eastward into the warmer Mediterranean, we are close on top speed,
her bow creating a huge wash of foaming white fluffy spume. 
Tonight is our welcome aboard party and first formal night
and as we were getting ready, Hector, our cabin steward, arrived bearing our
world cruise gifts – an Aspinall leather notebook, Cross pen and postcards. I
decided to wear my blue velvet dress as I think this will become too warm later
on in the cruise. We queued up and then entered Carmen’s, being greeted by the
Deputy Captain, Patrick Maguire. Later Captain Andrew Hall made an appearance, introduced this very special
180th anniversary cruise and also introduced a Royal Navy officer
who is travelling with us until the risk of piracy diminishes after Dubai.
We went in late for dinner and then went
to the quiz, ending up on separate tables, filling in gaps for teams where
people were missing. Bed.
Thursday 12 January at sea
Weather: Dry, good visibility Temperature: 17C
Wind: Force 4
Sea state: Slight
Today the weather is lovely, the sky is blue and we are
rounding the last little part of Spain before our transit through the Straits
of Gibraltar. I got up about 9am and had breakfast of fruit and pancakes before
my friend went off to the port talk and I went to the solos meeting. This was interrupted by a crew drill – a bomb
alert, so we had everyone searching Andersons for a planted suspect package. This
continued for around one hour. I headed out to the promenade deck to search for
the dolphins that are well-known to frequent this area. However, although it is
warm and calm, it is windy and the seas are choppy making dolphins hard to
spot. The wind deposits salt on your skin, hair and lips – one of the joys of
being at sea. Saw a couple of fishing
boats and warships in the narrow Straits.
Dinner was amusing, especially when one of the men asked which of us
ladies was going to do his laundry! When he offered any cost, I said I would do
it for £100 an hour, and send it to the ship’s laundry! Four of us went to the
quiz and were joined by another couple. We still only
managed 13/20.
Friday 13 January at sea
Weather: Dry, good visibility, overcastTemperature: 16C
Wind: Force 6
Sea state: Moderate
I woke up this morning to blue skies and calm seas – proper
cruising weather at last. I even managed to eat breakfast outdoors behind the
Horizon Buffet, with a view of the wake and warm sun on my skin. It was
wonderful, but by 11.30 had, as the captain predicted, clouded over – grey
skies and grey seas. Went to solos and then the Aurora Uncovered event. I then went to cabin where I
discovered a letter giving notice of a Round the World Cruise luncheon on
either the 23 or 24 January. This is
solely for those doing the full voyage.
In the evening before dinner we went to see Byron Roberts, a
classical and flamenco guitarist, whom I though excellent. I loved his version
of the Rodrigo Concerto d’Aranjuez, one of my favourites. After dinner it was
the syndicate quiz where we did a little better with 15/20.
Saturday 14 January – Malta
Weather: Dry, good visibility, overcastTemperature: 15C
Wind: Force 4
We arrived around midday so I was on deck taking photos of our arrival. Aurora
even got a seven-gun salute to mark the 180th anniversary of P&O.
Malta is of course one of the historic ports for P&O. I had booked a tour to Vittoriosa and Marsakloxx,
both parts of the island I had never seen before. It was a lovely sunny day –
mostly. We did have a very heavy shower just before we got out of the coach at
Vittoriosa but stayed inside until it ceased. We walked inside the fort and old
part of the town before leaving the group and going to the Maritime Museum.
This was interesting but didn’t have any P&O relics as I had been told.
Our next stop was at the old fishing village
of Marsakloxx. The picturesque harbour looked beautiful in the now sunshine and
the light was fabulous.
There was a market along the quayside making browsing
for souvenirs easy – although I resisted the temptation! We returned about 4.30
and I downloaded my photos. Then got ready for a casual evening before going
off to see the Maltese Folk singers/dancers in Carmens. After that it was time for dinner. Shirley
didn’t appear but as she had been spotted on a tour we weren’t that concerned.
I was then going to go to bed but John persuaded me to go to the quiz as,
without me, he wasn’t going to go. Amazingly we won!! John came up trumps in
the tie-break with the number of days Ronnie Biggs had been free. Then I had a
celebratory nightcap in Anderson’s with Caryll & John.
Sunday 15 January at sea
Weather: Showers, good visibility, overcastTemperature: 16C
Wind: Force 2
Sea state: Slight
Got up about 9am and after breakfast, went to solos where I
had a long chat . Then went to diamond talk and then went to listen to Ken Vard talking about liners in art. All in all, a
very lazy day but enjoyable.
Monday 16 January – Piraeus
Weather: Dry, good visibility, clear skiesTemperature: 11C
Wind: Light airs
My birthday. Got up about 8.30 to find us already berthed in
Piraeus. As we went up for a leisurely breakfast we found Celestyal Olympia on one side of us, and Celestyal Neferli and Aegean
Odyssey on the other side, all laid up.
We hadn’t booked a tour so took our
time getting off. There was a big crew drill this morning, including “man
overboard” and “fire on deck four” with real smoke. All the fire doors were
also closed and one silly passenger tried to rush through the one which was
closing outside the Crow’s nest until we shouted at her to stop, wait until it
had remotely closed and then re-open it. We went ashore about 10.30 and caught
the Trolley Train around Piraeus, getting off at the main shopping centre. I
have never been to Piraeus before, always getting a bus into Athens or a tour further
afield to Sounion or Corinth. Where we got off there were huge building works
taking place laying tracks for a new tram system. We first went into a
beautiful Greek Orthodox church, filled completely with icons.
Then I took a
photo of the theatre before walking the streets down to the harbour. There we
stopped at a café and had a Ravani – a type of Greek honey cake with a large
dollop of vanilla icecream and raspberry sauce all over it. Together with a
cappuccino it was delicious.
We then
started to head back, but got a bit lost, having to ask the way. Then waited on
the wrong side of the road so had to rush over when the train approached. We
caught it back to Aurora, getting some nice photos of her and the other
ships before climbing the gangway back
on board.
Once I had dumped my bag and souvenirs I grabbed a quick snack of a toasted cheese
sandwich. Despite a rather gloomy
weather forecast it had actually been a gloriously sunny day but now it was
starting to cloud over and someone said they had seen flashes of lightning in
the distance. After a rest we started to go up for
sailaway when the captain came over the tannoy to say departure would be
delayed due to a medical evacuation. Half an hour later he came on again to say
that the ship’s medical staff had had to accompany the passenger to hospital
and it would be an hour or so before they returned. A sad end to someone's holiday. We got ready for our casual
night and took our two bottles of complimentary champagne (Lanson Black Label) to Andersons
to share with our table to celebrate my birthday. My friend and I finished off the champagne with dinner and the waiters duly sang
happy birthday to me afterwards! Then to bed and to prepare for tomorrow’s tour
to Agios
Nikolaos in Crete.
Tuesday 17 January – Heraklion
Weather: Dry, good visibility, clear skies
Temperature: 17C
Wind: Force
I woke up about 7.15 and as I looked out of the window we
were already berthing in Heraklion. Went up to the Horizon Buffet for a quick breakfast and then went back to the
cabin to get ready for our tour and joined the coach on the quayside. It was a
one-hour journey to the seaside resort of Agios Nikolaos, through the snow-capped
mountains and small towns. Unfortunately, as it is January, Crete is closed!
When we got to the town we were taken on a short tour before being left to
explore on our own. Nothing was open – not even supermarkets. We found one
small coffee shop and a few souvenir shops – that was all. We paused for
a drink and wandered round the
harbour, with me stopping to talk to the cats gazing hopefully at the fishing
boats. Temperature: 17C
Wind: Force
Next we walked the steep shopping streets before returning to the harbour and walked the other way, past the coach park towards a sculpture and viewpoint.
Wednesday 18 January at sea
Weather: Dry, good visibility 2.8ths cloudTemperature: 18C
Wind: Light airs
Sea state: Slight
Woke up to a beautiful morning. We are now heading south
towards Suez. The sea is clear and calm and the sky is blue, although it soon
began to haze over with the heat. Went to the solos meet after breakfast and
then down to reception to get a new cruise card as mine has stopped working
again. I am hearing
stories about shore excursions. Three fell over yesterday on the excursion
to the winery. Watched the port talk on Petra – I’m still a bit worried about the walk
but am determined to make it so hopefully all will be well!
Had a light lunch on the stern deck in the Pennant Bar, the
long straight wake marking our passage ever further east and further away from
home. I skipped tea, and, as it wasn’t very bright outside,
decided to do my first load of washing – just underwear this time. There was a queue in the
deck 5 launderette so I went up to deck 11. The delicates wash only
takes about 35 mins, but as it takes around 40 mins in the tumble dryers, I
brought it all back down to the cabin to dry as I needed to be in The Glass
House the meet with the Hotel Manager about the book.
Returned to the cabin where I changed for a formal night. It
was very confusing as Horizon said it was B/W night and Masquerades was
decorated with b/w balloons, but it also said it was the Arabian Ball! After
dinner, three of us went to the quiz but my
heart wasn’t really in as the next day we have to be up really early for the Canal
transit.
Thursday 19 January – Suez Canal
Weather: Dry, moderate visibility, poor at times, 3/8th
cloudTemperature: 16C
Wind: Light airs
Sea state: Calm canal waters
I set the alarm for 6.30am but was awake from 3am so
eventually gave up and got up at 6.15am. Last night in dinner, we made our
approach to Port Said and dropped anchor awaiting our slot in the convoy. The
Captain announced that he had asked for a position at the back so we could make
the transit in daylight. In the event we were the second ship behind a car
carrier, with the signal to raise anchor given around 2.30am and we entered the
Canal about 4am so by the time we got up we were well on our way through. What
no one had reckoned on however, including the captain, was fog – very thick
fog; whole banks of fog coming and going and obscuring the banks either side.
It wasn’t until around 9am that it burnt off and the villages and towns lining
the banks were finally revealed. The starboard side was the most interesting as
the port side was mainly desert with a few industrial complexes. We passed
ferries and a lot of guard-houses, soldiers and a very long wall, roughly the
whole length of the Canal. We took the opportunity of a quick late breakfast
while in the fog bank, and also for a light lunch at the deck barbeque. It was
strange passing Ismailia after hearing so much about it from Mum and Dad –
seeing the fishermen, fellucas and birds etc.
Some scenes were almost biblical in their appearance until you noticed
the fishermen taking photos of Aurora on their mobile phones!
We emerged from
the canal about 3.30pm and into the Gulf of Suez. By then it was a beautiful
hot and sunny day with not a cloud in the sky.
Friday 20 January at sea
Weather: Dry, good visibility, 2/8ths cloudTemperature: 24C
Wind: Force 4
Sea state: Slight
I woke up and feel it hard to believe we haven’t yet been on
board for two weeks as it feels forever – in a good way however. Today we have
the Baltic and Ligurian Peninsular Lunch so I planned a quiet morning sitting
out on deck in the now lovely warm sun. However I got chatting to a nice couple
at breakfast on the deck at the back of the Horizon Restaurant and didn’t
actually leave till it was time to get ready for the Lunch. We had the Bar
Manager hosting the table, along with two couples – one from Poole and one from
Kidderminster, plus a rather miserable man on his own. By the time we had
partaken of a glass of champagne, three glasses of wine and a delicious
three-course meal, I wasn’t good for anything other than an afternoon spent
dozing on the Prom deck! The weather had other ideas sadly and clouded over at
about 2.30 so I returned to the cabin for a tidy-up, putting away the winter
clothes and hanging up sunwear! Then had
a nap, got ready for dinner and afterwards, went to the Syndicate Quiz, telling
everyone that it would be the last time for a couple of days as we will be in
Petra tomorrow.
Saturday 21 January – Aqaba
Weather: Dry, good visibility, clear skiesTemperature: 20C
Wind: Force 3
Well the day has dawned – the one I have been both looking
forward to and dreading so much. We got up at 0630 and I took a good dose of
painkillers. We had to muster in Carmen’s at 0830 for our tour leaving at 0900.
After a short wait we were taken down to the gangway on Deck 4 and boarded our
coach, no.18. The guide was excellent and kept up a non-stop commentary all the
way on the 2 hour drive from Aqaba to Petra. The coach was a bit cramped and I
was having trouble sitting with my knees straight but the scenery was fabulous,
taking my mind off the discomfort.
The huge mountains, the desert and the
railway, built by the Turks, that Lawrence of Arabia blew up. This ran
alongside the road for quite a distance. After heading north, we turned
westwards and gradually climbed up into the mountains. There were sheep,
Bedouin goat herders, tiny encampments and small villages.
We climbed ever
higher before starting to descend into Petra. The road was winding but the
scenery was stunning – huge boulder-shaped cliffs and the famous rose-red
colours of the rock. The guide took us to the visitor centre for our tickets
and showed us the hotel where we would be having lunch. There was then a mile
to walk along a gravel track in the open air – not too hot thankfully, but
again not cold. There had been a lot of debate over temperatures and what to
wear, but I had chosen well in the event – thin viscose trousers and top and
light cotton jacket with hat. About a mile down this track (along which you
could have chosen to ride a horse – a wild, frisky Arabian sort of horse!)
there was a kind of way station where we all gathered again for the guide.
I
had already decided I would not try and keep up with the group but do it in my
own time, setting my own pace and using two walking poles. If I reached the
Treasury I would be happy! This plan was fine and I really enjoyed the walk on
my own. From this point on we entered the Siq – the famous narrow passage
through a river-worn gorge with the original Hessonite water channels running
along either side, once lined with ceramic tiles. This track was as beautiful
and dramatic as I had hoped and indeed seen in films and documentaries.
The
sunlight streaming through from high above, created deep shadows and glowing
red rocks. There weren’t that many people and by dropping back and setting my
own pace I managed to take a lot of photos avoiding crowds – sometimes feeling
as if I was the the only person there. Every now and again I had to squeeze to
the side to avoid a hurtling horse and carriage, either full of returning
people or racing back down to collect more. There were lots of Bedouin men and
children hawking postcards and silver jewellery but, aside from one forcing a
silver bracelet onto my wrist (saying it was a gift!) and then snatching it
away when I insisted I didn’t want it, there was little hassle. The surface
changed underfoot every now and again from a nice smooth concrete path to the
original large boulder-like flagstones similar to those at Pompeii or Ephesus.
As I neared the end of the Siq it became rough stony ground and this was where
I really needed the walking poles. It was quite treacherous underfoot with
loose rocks and you had to pick your way quite carefully. All the way people
had been cheering me on, asking if I was OK or needed any help – it was very
touching. At the end I turned that last corner and got that fabled and stunning
view of the Rose Red City of Petra’s Treasury building – just like in the
Indiana Jones movie! I had made it! In front was a Bedouin with two camels,
offering rides to take you further into the ancient site. Donkeys were tied up
for the same purpose and in the souvenir shop/café there were three cats
running round, including a ginger and a tabby & white who didn’t get on at
all! They were all friendly and obviously well-fed however and took a few
cuddles from me. I took my time there, taking lots of photos and absorbing the
atmosphere, despite the crowds. With patience you could get some shots without
too many tourists in. Camels and locals just added to the scene. Having
achieved my main aim, and seeing as the ground from then on was loose rocky
gravel, I decided to slowly make my way back. By giving myself plenty of time I
was able to photograph different vistas and spot some of the archaeology (such
as the carving of a man with three camels) without crowds obscuring them. In
fact for part of the way I was totally alone and it was magical, wandering
along this secret passageway to the once-lost city. As I emerged from the Siq
and up the last bit of steep uphill track, a group of P&O passengers
sitting on the wall resting, all clapped me!! Just as I thought, ‘great – I’m
nearly home!’, the mile-long gravel track that hadn’t seemed that long in the
morning, seemed interminable on the way back! By now the sun was up and hot,
and the track all the way from the Treasury to the hotel was uphill, the last
few feet being particularly steep and hard-going. However, I was buoyed on by
my success in doing it at all and by walking both ways (not to mention a
marriage proposal from a Bedouin who offered 25 camels for me!). I could have
got a carriage part-way back for $20 but it would have spoiled the experience.
They also tried to get me to ride a horse and even had mounting blocks at each
end!! Never having ridden I declined!
At the hotel I was led to a seat for our delicious Jordanian
buffet lunch with couscous, lamb, salads, sesame seeds and sweets of coconut
and ices. After eating my fill I sat outside where I was offered coffee and
then browsed the souvenir shops, purchasing a blue embroidered pashmina. After
a further sit in the sun, chatting to people, I made my way back up to the
coach where Caryll joined me shortly. The 2 hour drive back was mostly in the
dusk and dark but we stopped at one point to admire a stunning sunset over the
mountains, illuminating the rocks that shield Petra. The moon was glowing and
stars shone brightly. We finally made our way back through the heavy traffic of
Aqaba to Aurora, glittering by the quayside, dressed overall with fairylights.
It had been a magical day. We had an hour before dinner so had a shower and
change before going into dinner where, ironically, the only people there were
the four who had been to Petra! Then it was bed – I was exhausted and my hips
had begun to hurt, partly I suspect due to my squished knees as much as the
walking. Still a wonderful day though!
