Sunday 5th January Southampton
Log: Oceana lay quietly
alongside the Mayflower Terminal port side to quay when she opened her doors
and welcomed on board 1881 embarking guests for the upcoming Spain and Portugal
cruise, Oceana’s first cruise of 2020
and of the new decade. Once all guests had been confirmed on board, officers
and deck crew were called to mooring stations and Oceana began to single up her mooring lines. As the last line was
let go at 1659hrs, Oceana was thrust
gently to starboard to bring her off the quayside before coming ahead on her
engines. She then proceeded ahead entering the main buoyed channel to begin her
voyage. Once steady on her outbound heading, the pilot took the conn giving
helm orders and clearing the various cruise and ferry berths along the port
side. Once clear of Fawley Oil terminal, the speed was increased to 12 knots
for the two large turns, the first being Calshot. Headings down the Thorn
Channel were set before the second turn around Brambles Bank was executed. Oceana then continued on an easterly
heading passing the Solent forts as she made her way towards the Nab Tower and
the end of her pilotage. The 26 nautical mile pilotage lasted just over 2 hours
with the pilot disembarking at 1910hrs. Once clear of the eastern anchorage off
the Isle of Wight, Oceana filtered
into the westbound traffic in preparation for her transit through the English
Channel overnight.
I was picked up at 9.30am and we made good time
via motorways to Southampton, arriving about 11.30, and before my friend who lives in Southampton! As I checked in there were issues getting our credit cards to register so by the
time the lady admitted defeat and asked us to register them on board,
embarkation began. Also, my cruise card bar code was a bit blurry so they
suggested I got a new one from reception. As we were going through the atrium,
the Hotel General Manager, Helen, spotted us and waved and said hello.
Once in the Adriatic Restaurant for the Peninsular Lunch, we chose some food
from the buffet and awaited our champagne - in this instance, free-flowing along with other choices such as wine, but one lady pushed her luck in asking for a gin and tonic!! The supposed
cuts I had read about on Facebook, were not in evidence. We did have to ask for
face flannels and shower caps rather than them being supplied automatically but
they were soon supplied with no issues. Our cabin steward was
concerned we might think he wasn’t doing his job properly rather than it being
a P&O directive. The cabin has better storage than we remembered, having
six small drawers in the dressing table, three wide drawers between the beds (a
bit of a pain when sharing) two railed shelves either side of the fridge and a very
large railed surface over the fridge, under the TV. There were three wardrobes
– one double with full length hanging, one with twin rails for trousers, shirts
etc, and one with shelves and two swing-out wire trays. The safe was in the
latter. The cases fitted under the beds with ease. The hairdryer is fixed to the wall beside the dressing table mirror and there is also a small railed shelf
and mirror beside the bathroom. The worst part of the cabin is the smallest
bathroom I have seen (except perhaps that on Norwegian Escape). Our luggage was
already outside the cabin as we reached it so we did a bit of unpacking,
especially since muster drill was delayed half an hour to 1630hrs as they were
waiting for some passengers. It is much easier now you no longer have to take
your lifejacket to muster drill as you can go straight out on deck for
sailaway, which is what we did. I wanted to watch us pass Saga Sapphire as she is leaving the fleet this year and it may be
the last time I ever see her. We had club dining in the Adriatic Restaurant on
a table for 8 (Table 108). There was only one couple and 4 empty seats. Our lovely wine waitress introduced herself and
I ordered a rich Portuguese red wine from the Douro. The food was also
delicious – a swordfish steak, crispy on the outside and succulent in the
centre. After dinner we went to watch Stage Door performed by the Headliners,
who were much better than usual in my experience adn I went to all their shows throughout the cruise.
Monday 6th January at Sea
Log: Overnight Oceana
set west south westerly courses through the traffic separation schemes of the
northern coast of France. Oceana
sailed around the North West tip of France and the island of Ushant in the
early afternoon and proceeded on her passage towards Cape Finisterre,
paralleling the outer extremities of the Bay of Biscay. Conditions throughout
the day were rough with large swells causing increased movement of the ship.
Winds eased into the evening and passing showers were experienced all day.
It was somewhat rocky during the night, with a lot of banging
outside our window. We have an obstructed view cabin, between two lifeboats.
After breakfast in Café Jardin, we went to the Solo’s Meet which was well
attended and a very large number of both men and women. Men tend not to go to
these events as a rule. After that, we went to the Facebook meet in Magnums.
Only about 10 of us were there, but the entertainment Manager, Leon, came along for
a chat. He expected more of us too! Then my friend went off to play deck games and I went
to the jewellery raffle. I took lunch in Café Jardin as it is convenient to our cabin and easier for me
than the buffet when it is bumpy. Then I relaxed in the afternoon before a spa
appointment for a manicure at 1545hrs. We had pre-dinner cocktails in Tiffanys and then dinner with the lovely
Scottish couple. No one else turned up again. After another lovely meal, my friend and I went to the syndicate quiz in The Plaza, joining three other people. We
didn’t win but didn’t disgrace ourselves. Bed as the clocks go forward an hour
tonight.
Tuesday 7th January at Sea
Log: Continuing on her passage adjacent to the Bay of Biscay, Oceana steamed at an average speed of 12
knots towards Cape Finisterre. Conditions improved as the day progressed
although visibility was limited at times causing the watchkeeping officers to
activate the ship’s whistle to inform vessels of Oceana’s presence. After clearing the Cape Finisterre Traffic
Separation Scheme at around 2300hrs, Oceana
turned to port onto an east south easterly heading towards the first port of
call, Vigo in Spain.
Didn’t wake up until 0900hrs, due I guess to the lost hour. We
didn’t make solos, but went to The Plaza for breakfast. My friend went off to play
games while I chilled. Lunch was a salmon fishcake and fruit tart in The
Plaza adn then I spent the afternoon reading. There are not many places on Oceana to sit with a sea view except the Plaza so many window tables get filled up with people who are not eating. It was our first formal night so
showered and changed. The Captain’s Welcome Aboard Party is
held in the Atrium on this ship so we went to Deck 7 where we had a good view. In the event, fog confined the captain to the bridge and the deputy captain made the
speeches. We had plenty of champagne however.
Wednesday 8th January Vigo
Log: Continuing on east south easterly courses throughout the
morning, Oceana approached the North
Channel into the port area for Vigo, navigating around several fishing vessels
working in the area. She then completed a series of turns; firstly to starboard
around Isla Do Norte before then turning to port to proceed up river towards
the pilot station where the local pilot embarked at 0655hrs. Continuing up
river, Oceana was swung 180° to
starboard just off the Transatlanticicos cruise berth before berthing port side
to quay. After a mostly dry day, the weather deteriorated shortly before the
last of Oceana’s guests made it back
to the ship, with fog and drizzle descending over Vigo. By 1628hrs all guests
and crew were back on board and the ship’s engines were started. The last line
was let go by 1641hrs and, after thrusting to starboard away from the berth, the
engines were put ahead before the local pilot disembarked at 1701hrs. The speed
was then increased up to 17knots as Oceana
began her passage towards Malaga.
Today we were off on tour to Bayona La Real. We booked a cabin
breakfast and set off about 0930hrs. Our first stop was at a viewpoint at La
Guia Hill, with views over Vigo and Oceana.
Next stop was at the Parador Conde de
Gondomar where drinks and tapas was laid out for us. The tour booklet said tea,
coffee and soft drinks, but in fact local white Albarinho wine was offered as
well.
This was followed by a gentle walk back down the hill and along the seafront to the Old
Quarter, past the Convent of the Dominicas, Misericordia Chapel and Casa
Lorenzo Correa (now the Town Hall). It was quaint and pretty … and flat … much
to my relief.
Bayona is where one of Columbus' three ships (Pinta) first made landfall after discovering the Americas and there is a replica of her in the marina. After that we had about half an hour free time. Back on ship I
had lunch whilst my friend went ashore to look round Vigo and the shops. That
evening we were joined at dinner by another couple so we had a
little more variety in our conversation. They fitted in well.
Thursday 9th January at Sea
Log: Continuing at an average speed of 17 knots, Oceana proceeded on a southerly course
towards the Traffic Separation Scheme of Cabo Da Roca west of Lisbon around
0600hrs and then set south easterly courses towards the Traffic Separation
Scheme of Cabo Da St Vicente shortly after noon. Afterwards proceeded east
south east, Oceana then approached
the Gibraltar Strait, passing the narrowest point around midnight.
We had our usual sea day activities. I managed to find a copy of my last book, Chasing the Dawn, in the ship’s Library so borrowed it to show to our dining companions.
Friday 10th January Malaga
Log: Initially heading east following her transit of the Gibraltar
Strait, Oceana soon turned to port
crossing the traffic flow, setting courses first to the north east and later to
the north before making the final approaches towards the port of Malaga. The
local pilot was boarded just outside the breakwaters at 0713hrs and Oceana turned to starboard before being
manoeuvred into the harbour and berthing starboard side alongside. After a
pleasant day in port, all guests and crew were confirmed back on board by
1749hrs and Oceana’s engines were
started before letting go her lines at 1814hrs. After thrusting off the berth
slightly, the engines were put astern before commencing a swing to turn the
ship 180°. After completing the swing, she was manoeuvred back out through the
breakwaters and a few minutes later the pilot disembarked at 1839hrs. Easterly
courses were then followed into the night towards the next port of call,
Barcelona.
As our all-day tour of Granada on Your Own was leaving at 0830hrs
we ordered a cabin breakfast again. The drive to Granada took around 2 hours
before dropping us off on the outer edge of the old city centre. This is where
my problems began as I had not expected a half hour hike uphill and at a brisk
pace, to the main meeting point in the square. We were then shown where the old
Silk Market and Cathedral were and left to explore for 3 hours. After visiting
the Cathedral we found a café for some sustenance. I asked for the
local Malaga Dolce wine as mentioned by the guide, but the waitress didn’t seem
to know what I wanted so I settled for a local white wine and a snack.
Afterwards, we separated and explored on our own. I wandered the
narrow alleys of the Silk Market again, buying a small icon and a gift for a
friend. It was warm and sunny and a truly lovely day. The area around the Cathedal is filled with similar architecture to the Alhambra Palace, unsurprisingly - moorish tiles and elaborate plaster work. With the shops selling arabic-type items such as coloured glass lanterns and leather slippers, it was very like being in Turkey or Morocco rather than in Spain. Back in Malaga my friend stayed behind in the terminal to use the free wi-fi while I returned on board. At 1728hrs I received a phone call from reception asking for her. I hastily texted her as she had thought back on board time was 1800hrs!
Saturday 11th January at Sea
Log: Cruising at approximately 13 knots, Oceana followed north easterly courses up the south east coast of
Spain. Strong winds were experienced from the north north east throughout the
morning ranging from Force 5 to Force 8 resulting in a moderate sea state.
Thankfully the direction of the waves and swell meant Oceana’s stabiliser fins dampened the majority of the movement and
she remained steady. As the afternoon progressed and the evening drew near, the
winds eased.
After our busy day in Granada, it was good to relax on board. In
the morning it was warm enough to sit out on the prom deck out of the chilly
wind. We had our Baltic/Ligurian Peninsular Lunch so that took up a
2-hour chunk of the day. We were on a table hosted by Jane, Assistant
Entertainment Manager. The menu had changed and Ichose the salmon main course but found it very dry which was disappointing. Usually these lunches are very good. Later I went to the shop to find out if they had any copies
of my book for sale and they found 3 in a cupboard so I was able to tell our dining companions they had some.
Sunday 12th January Barcelona
Log: Approaching from the south south west, Oceana neared the coast and the port of Barcelona in the early
hours of the morning. The local pilot was boarded at 0706hrs on the final
approach before turning to starboard to enter the breakwaters. She was then
swung bow to port, stern to starboard through 180° before coming astern on her
engines to back towards the berth at Terminal E. She berthed alongside and
secured her mooring lines. After a day exploring Barcelona, all guests and crew
were back on board by 1725hrs and the lines were let go by 1742hrs. After
thrusting to starboard away from the berth and into the channel, the engines
were put ahead and Oceana headed
towards the breakwaters. Retracing the morning’s tracks, she turned to port
leaving the port and proceeded out through the channel and adjoining traffic
separation scheme. Once the pilot was disembarked at 1759hrs and the channel
was cleared, south south westerly courses were set towards Valencia.
As we had both been to Barcelona many times, we had chosen to do Sitges
on Your Own. South of Barcelona, Sitges is a white village by the sea, with quaint
narrow streets, long flat sea front and beach. It was a straight transfer, with
a short walk to the meeting point from the car park. It was Sunday and when we arrived,
the town was pretty dead. The church bells began to call worshippers
to Mass and when it was over around 11am, shops began to open.
It was hot and
sunny so we found a café on the seafront and sat outdoors with a glass of sangria and carrot cake. Then, while my friend walked down the promenade, I sat in the sun and
people-watched. There was a man blowing huge bubbles and children were chasing
them. On the wander back through the narrow streets, we bought some olive
oil as gifts. The huge local oranges were very tempting too!
Monday 13th January Valencia
Log: After cruising at around 14 knots overnight from Barcelona, Oceana approached Valencia from the
north east before turning to starboard onto her final westerly approaches. The
local pilot boarded at 0710hrs ahead of a long manoeuvre where Oceana was carefully navigated through
the breakwaters to the first basin, swung bow to port and stern to starboard
before coming astern into the second basin. Meanwhile keeping a safe distance
from the other berthed ships and monitoring passing smaller vessels. As she
came astern, Ocean approached her berth on her starboard quarter and the stern
was thrusted to starboard to bring her starboard side to quay. The first lines
reached the shore at 0750hrs and guests were able to proceed ashore by 0825hrs.
The long arrival manoeuvre meant departure would be slightly easier however it
was still not a simple operation. After letting go lines at 1753hrs Oceana thrusted to port to come away
from the berth. Her engines were then put ahead and she steered to starboard to
round the end of the berth. Once clear and on a steady heading, she slightly
increased speed and cruised past several container ships on the port side
before coming to starboard into the outer basin. Finally, after a slight turn
to port she exited the breakwaters and disembarked the local pilot at 1815hrs.
I was on the Taste of Valencia tour, which turned out much better than I
was expecting. It began with a drive around Valencia – so I saw parts new to me - before a photo stop at the Science Park. I love the modern architecture there
and the bright blue sky and sun was perfect for creating magical reflections in
the shallow lakes that surround it.
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| Port Saplaya |
Then we drove to Port Saplaya, Valencia’s
Little Venice, which had a hidden secret harbour, surrounded by brightly
painted houses – a little like Burano. Lastly we went to an Alqueria, an old
farm that produces tiger nuts or churo for Horchata, a milk made by grinding the nuts in
water and sweetening it. It is traditionally served with fartons (like churros),
which are dipped in the milk. It was delicious.
I wasn’t sure I was going to be
able to do this last part of the tour but the farmer very kindly dismantled a
section of fence just to allow me with my walker onto the concrete walkways between the
fields. Harvesting was taking place and the trailer behind the tractor was
edged with large white egrets, busy eating the nuts as they fell into the
trailer. I got back about 1430hrs and had a salad in the Plaza before a rest in
the sun on the prom deck. It was my friend's first time in
Valencia so she had gone off on the shuttle to explore alone.
Tuesday 14th January at Sea
Log: After setting generally southerly courses throughout the
night following the traffic separation zones off the coast of Spain, Oceana turned to starboard onto westerly
courses towards the Gibraltar Strait merging into and following the general
traffic flow. A busy day saw her overtake and be overtaken by several ships and
sight a large variety of vessels heading in the opposite direction around 5
nautical miles off the port side. As the evening progressed the final
approaches to the Strait were made, which she entered shortly prior to
midnight.
A welcome relaxing sea day before our final two ports. My friend went
off to breakfast and quoits while I had a leisurely shower and cabin tidy up
before brunch. The Oceana bathrooms
really are minute and it was much easier to shower and then dry myself in the
cabin where I could move. It was warm enough to sit out on deck out of the
wind so I spent an hours of so there before attending a talk on how to look after your jewellery. Before dinner that evening we
went to watch Astonishing, a new show for P&O, well new to us, I think it’s
been on the ships awhile. We both enjoyed it a lot – illusions mixed with song
and dance – so much so that we went again after dinner.
Wednesday 15th January Cadiz
Log: After clearing the Gibraltar Strait a little after 0100hrs, Oceana continued due west before
altering course to starboard at 0307hrs to a heading of 342° to follow the
south west coast of Spain up towards Cadiz. After the northbound leg she
altered to starboard again to 040° to make her final approaches towards the
port. After picking up the local pilot as she entered the buoyed channel, a
slow turn to starboard around the shallows was followed by a tighter turn to
starboard to enter the breakwater. After clearing the breakwater, Oceana was swung bow to port and stern
to starboard using a combination of engines, rudders and, once the speed
reduced, thrusters. On completion of the swing, her engines were put astern to
steadily back towards the berth on her port side at the end of the dock. After
all guests and crew were confirmed back on board at 1730hrs, Oceana singled up her mooring lines and
her engines were started. The last lines were then let go at 1747hrs and using
the thrusters she moved laterally to starboard away from the berth into the
basin. Once clear of the berth her engines were put ahead and she proceeded
towards the breakwater before turning to port into the channel. Whilst
navigating through the channel the pilot disembarked at 1804hrs and Oceana left the coast of Spain behind
her as she headed west to round the southern tip of Portugal.
This was my tenth visit to Cadiz so we had chosen the tour to
Jerez and the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art. We drove about half an
hour to the famous sherry town of Jerez de la Frontera. Our first stop was at the Riding
School which is devoted to conserving the Andalusian horse breed, maintaining the traditions
of baroque horsemanship, training horses and riders for dressage competitions, and providing education in all aspects of
horsemanship. We were shown the stables, tack
room and the outdoor training arena where they were practising dressage and
carriage driving; the horses were beautiful. Overlooking the area, on a tall chimey were a couple of stork nests!
My friend also went to watch some of
the training in the actual arena but I could not manage all the steps with my walker.
Then to the Gonzales Byass sherry bodega to see the cellars, have the manufacturing
process explained and finally taste three sherries – Tio Pepe, Soleras Cream
and Croft Original.
Back on board I had a late lunch while my friend nipped ashore
to Carrefour and buy some of the Soleras Cream sherry – 7 euros a bottle.
As it was warm we had our sailaway champagne on deck before coming in and
changing for dinner – warm seared tuna starter, roast chicken, cheese and
biscuits and lots of chocolates at the end.
Thursday 16th January Lisbon
Log: After the 260 nautical miles passage from Cadiz overnight, Oceana arrived at the entrance to the
Tagus River or Rio Tejo, passing over the sand bar at 0723hrs and then passing
the Bugio lighthouse on the starboard side a few minutes later. Continuing up
river and following it to starboard, the pilot boarded approximately 2 nautical
miles before passing under the April 25th Bridge at 0802hrs. Oceana cleared the bridge by 9m at
0817hrs before heading towards the berth. The first lines reached the shore at
0852hrs after a smooth berthing manoeuvre despite strong winds from the south
and nearly 2 knots of tidal current from up river, As the day progressed, the
weather deteriorated slightly, remaining overcast throughout. Shortly before
departure a strong weather front passed over the city causing heavy rain and
strong gusts of wind but left a welcome calm after it passed. Once all persons
were accounted for and the engines started, the lines were let go at 1742hrs
and Oceana was thrust off the berth
to starboard, letting the stern lead and use the flooding tidal current to good
effect. Once clear of the berth, the bow was thrust to starboard whilst still
coming astern completing a 180° swing bringing her to a south westerly heading
back towards the April 25th Bridge which was passed under at
1814hrs. The pilot then disembarked at 1821hrs; Oceana sailed out of the river and once again passed the Bugio
Lighthouse before leaving the port limits at 1854hrs.
My Birthday! We had booked a small group tour (8 people) to Fatima
leaving at 0930hrs so had a cabin breakfast while we got ready and I opened my cards and gift. We were late docking
and I was waiting by one exit when I was told that people with mobility issues
should go to the midships gangway. Having got there I discovered an airbridge
to the new cruise terminal. Whilst this may have been easier, incline wise, it
meant a very long walk indeed and by the time I reached the minibus I was worn
out before we even started. I had been warned I may not be able to take my
walker but the tours desk managed to source a minibus with a boot so I could
take it. We drove for about 1¾ hours out into the hills to the site of Fatima. This area has it's own microclimate and it was around 2 degrees colder than in Lisbon - at least! Once there, we had 2½ hours to explore the Basilica and the Chapel of
the Apparitions as well as other buildings on this large site. The guide showed
me the disabled access to the Basilica and we arrived during Mass, so sat at
the back and absorbed the atmosphere. The music and acoustics were astounding.
I felt as if my whole body was being filled with beautiful sound.
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| Main Basilica |
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| Fatima |
 |
| Chapel of the Apparitions |
Once Mass had
finished, we walked around the church, visiting the graves of the three
shepherd children who saw the apparitions of the Virgin Mary beside the Holm
Oak tree that still grows outside. I then wandered back
towards the car park, shops and cafes. I bought a gift for our cabin steward as he had wanted to visit Fatima but the crew coach didn’t get enough people to run, while my friend bought a medallion for our wine waitress, who was distressed
that her family had been evacuated for the Philippines volcano eruption, and
had lost their home and animals. We then went next door to a café for a coffee
and Portuguese custard tart.
When I returned I discovered a lovely floral display had been delivered from Helen, the Hotel General Manager. I had a rest before changing for a smart casual night. We (that is our
table companions and Helen) were going to meet in Tiffany’s for pre-dinner
champagne. We had a great time chatting before going in for food. P&O no
longer sing Happy Birthday to you but my friend had arranged a lovely birthday
cake and the others gave me chocolates.
Friday 17th January at Sea
Log: Throughout the morning Oceana
sailed on northerly headings up the west coast of Portugal and then Spain
before transiting the Finisterre traffic separation scheme around 1230hrs. She
then headed north east beginning her passage parallel to the extremities of the
Bay of Biscay and towards Ushant.
 |
| Cafe Jardin |
It was pretty bumpy and noisy overnight. Got up at 0830hrs and had
maple syrup pancakes in Café Jardin before attending the solos meet. Then to the cabin to
do a little packing as I need to pace myself so as not to cause my back to flare up. Went to Battle of the Sexes, had pizza for lunch and then
the cabin again for more packing. In other words a lazy day as usual on sea days.
Saturday 18th at Sea
Log: The final day at sea saw
Oceana continuing to set courses to cross the outer extremities of the Bay
of Biscay towards Ushant. The island of Ushant marks the northern edge of the
Bay and entrance into the English Channel and was passed mid-afternoon before
north easterly courses were set towards the south coast of England.
Again, it was quite rough overnight, both rolling and pitching. Today was
mainly spent packing and those last-day errands – collecting photos, returning
library books etc. I went to Battle of the Sexes which the ladies won after trailing the men most of the cruise –Yay! My friend came to the cabin to do her
packing while I put my feet up for a bit. After dinner we added our last few
items and put everything out.
Sunday 19th Southampton
For once the assisted disembarkation worked quite well. We
assembled in Le Club. I was told I had 11 people in front so texted my taxi driver but
in fact, as soon as I went to the toilet, I was called - typical. I was home by 1130hrs.
