It's been a long, long lockdown but finally - the time is here - I can cruise again!! Like so many other peole, after so many cancellations, changes of date and changes of itinerary, I am setting off on Saga's Spirit of Adventure maiden cruise around the UK.
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| Spirit of Adventure at Holyhead |
Tilbury
Well,
after 5 or more changes of itinerary, date etc etc, the day is finally here.
First hurdle today is will my driver turn up? Somehow in all the changes my
transport fell off the system, which I only discovered last Thursday. However,
the car arrived on the dot of 9am. A sleek new silver Mercedes. Georj
introduced himself, gave me a bottle of water and loaded all my luggage and we set
off. Midway we had a comfort stop and he bought me a coffee. We arrived four or
so hours later due to traffic issues - accidents on M4 and M25. Once at Tilbury
we joined the queue for the COVID test. Once that was clear, there was an
oxygen check and I was cleared to board. At the entrance to the terminal, we
had to wash our hands and new masks were provided. I walked over to the
assisted embarkation desk where I was met by a lady with an iPad who checked my
particulars, passport and CV19 vaccination card and then asked to wait for a
wheelchair – about 5 mins, by which time Caryll had joined me. We had set off
at 9am and 11.30am respectively, yet were in the queue for CV19 testing a few
cars apart. Once on board a steward met us at the top of the gangway and took
our hand luggage and escorted us to the cabin. We had a deluxe twin cabin which
is much the same as a standard twin but with a larger balcony and a walk-in
wardrobe. Amenities include a shoehorn, clothes brush, blanket for the balcony,
kettle for teas and coffees, large screen TV, bath robe and slippers. There was
a bottle of Balfour Champagne chilling with glasses and a plate of fruit,
plates and cutlery along with a large bottle of hand sanitiser. We each had a
zipped pouch containing masks, sanitiser and disposable gloves. It was so
exciting to be back on board a ship. The muster drill was at 5.30 pm. It was a
little different in that all passengers were told to return to their cabins
prior and watch a video on the TV. Then the general emergency alarm was sounded
and everyone had to proceed to the muster station and check in and then leave.
In theory this meant a one-way system but there was a lot of congestion on the
stairways. As I am registered with a disability, I had to wait in my cabin for
a steward who then escorted me where I needed to go and also took me on deck to
my lifeboat. After muster it was on to Deck 13 for sailaway. There was a
marching band and confetti on the quayside and Captain Tanner was liberal in
his use of the horn as we turned 180° and sailed down the Thames. For dinner
everyone had been allocated a specific restaurant and time for the first night
and onwards it was freedom dining unless you had requested a fixed table for
the whole cruise. I had the Supper Club where we were seated on a table of 4. 6
is the maximum number for the time being. The food was delicious with a lobster
and shrimp starter, vegetarian main course and cheese and biscuits to finish.
The entertainment changed for each course, with singers, duos and a pianist.
After dinner my friend went to the show and I retreated to the cabin and
watched it on my cabin TV while finishing the unpacking. I have rarely had so
much space in a cabin and we had empty drawers to spare. This is because Saga
gave us a complimentary upgrade.
Tuesday
27th July at sea
We were
sailing on a beautiful millpond otherwise called the North Sea heading north to
Newcastle. Today has been fairly relaxed. I woke early and went onto the
balcony to watch the sunrise. It was really warm but a bit misty. We had
breakfast in the grill. This is a buffet but the food is still being served to
everyone. The decor is really bright and cheerful with primary colours. There
were various talks on today including two port talks, a motivational speaker,
and the ORCA team, where I learnt about any wildlife we might encounter. We did
various housekeeping tasks such as registering our credit cards, adjusting our
tours etcetera. Lunch was on deck in the Lido - a delicious fish & chips (small
portion) - lovely light crispy beer batter, washed down with a cider.
Then to the MDR for the Solos tea. Tables were restricted to 4 or 6 people again
and tea was served on pretty cake stands. Unlike Discovery last year there was
no champagne but it was a very social occasion. That left time for a short rest
before dressing for our first formal night. After the tea we really weren’t
very hungry so ate quite late. Again, the food was delicious with another
lobster/crab/shrimp starter followed by some roast chicken and ice cream. Then
I went to the show by Kerry Ellis. I have to say it was the best solo artist
singer with small orchestra I can remember listening to on a cruise
ship.
Wednesday
28th July Newcastle
We
arrived at 8 am in Newcastle. I was up early enough to watch the sail up
the River Tyne. It was a bit grey and misty as we passed the Tynemouth Priory
and castle but by the time our tour left the Sun was shining. It was my
first time in Newcastle and rather ambitiously I had booked two tours. The
first was to Northumberland castles and coast including Alnwick. We had a few
stops such as Saint Mary‘s Lighthouse and Alnwick Castle but largely it was a
panoramic tour through Tynemouth, Cullercoats, Whitley Bay, Seaton Sluice,
Blyth etc. Every tour was regarded as a bubble. We had to gel our hands on
boarding and every time we got back on the coach. Masks were worn throughout
but we still got given the Werther’s butterscotch sweets as normal. We had very
little time between tours so I got a drink in the Living Room along with a
small open sandwich before going to the gangway again for our Newcastle city
tour. This was a complimentary tour. I hadn’t realised the ships berth quite a
long way from the city. It was very interesting, a sort of mixture of Liverpool
and Porto. The weather was now lovely and sunny as we had about half an hour
free time by the Millennium Bridge to wander and take photographs. It was
amazing seeing the kittiwakes nesting under the old bridge. The tour was
comprehensive and quite long and at the end we had some time in hand so the
driver took us round Tynemouth (again). Back on board for sail away at 5.00 pm
we got a quick drink and went on deck as there was a fire tug standing by.
Captain Tanner took Adventure a little further upriver to swing her before
heading back out to sea. The fire tug led us out and there was much blowing of
horns and waving and shouting from the shore. As Adventure reached the sea, the
tug went off to one side and danced in spirals as we left. We changed for
dinner and had drinks in the Living Room before going in to the main dining
room for a delicious dinner of scallops, salad, Dover sole, apple pie and ice
cream, and coffee with truffles. I am very tired so have come back to the cabin
to prepare my bag for tomorrow and watch TV. It is a sea day as we round
Scotland and there should be plenty of wildlife to watch.
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| Millennium Bridge |
Thursday
29th July at sea
Sea
day today as we sail non-stop from Newcastle round Scotland to Belfast. Sadly,
the weather has taken a turn for the worse and it’s grey, damp, chilly and
misty. I went up to Deck 14 to join the ORCA team but there was no one there
and I nearly got blown off my feet so I’m back in the cabin briefly to dump my
coat and then go to the coffee chat at 11.00 am. A lot of people are
complaining about having to do tours to go ashore but they should have known
that before they boarded. Most people are understanding and accept the
conditions just to be on a cruise again. Although it isn’t a normal cruise as
per pre-Covid, Saga are doing their best to make it as normal as possible. We
still have to wear masks inside the ship and line dancing is the only dancing
class available, most things are now happening such as craft classes, quizzes,
sports and so on. Regarding the cabin we have washing lines in the showers
(missing from Discovery) and the only thing I notice missing are binoculars,
which is another Covid thing. Despite the weather, it was worth being on our
sheltered balcony, to see the many dolphins, seals, birds and five Minke whales
that we passed on the way. Unfortunately, we were just having lunch
when the captain announced that the Coast Guard would be coming to medevac
a patient who was not very well. We had heard the Code Alpha being called to
the playhouse earlier. It was feared the man had had a stroke but we later
heard (via his wife and Facebook) that it had been a first seizure. On the plus
side however, it seems Adventure set a new world record of 12 minutes from the
Coast Guard arriving to the Coast Guard leaving with the patient to Inverness
hospital. I had a manicure at 6.00 pm and then went straight to the Living Room
for a drink and into dinner in the main dining room. Another delicious meal
with Cornish crab starter, roast venison, and a delicate apple tart to finish.
Friday
30th July Belfast
We
arrived at 9 am this morning in Belfast. Because of the delays caused by the
medevac Adventure was an hour late but we are staying an extra hour and a half
so no tours have been affected. As I have been to Belfast three or four times
before I am staying on board today while Caryll has gone off sightseeing. I am
slowly working my way through the breakfast menu in the buffet. The choice is
quite large from yoghurt and cereal, croissants and Danish pastries, and fresh
and tinned fruit to American-style blueberry pancakes and waffles all made
fresh to order. There is also smoked salmon and other delicacies. The tours set
off for city centre bus tours, the Giants Causeway, and the coast of County
Antrim. It was nice having a virtually empty ship to explore and take
photographs. There was much activity in the port with various ferries coming
and going all day. I had lunch in the grill choosing a Ploughman‘s salad. In
the afternoon I sat with the ORCA team and chatted whilst they identified the photographs
which I had taken the previous day - common dolphins and a seal. We had dinner
in the main restaurant and then went to the show which was the classical
cross-over duo, Indigo May.
Saturday
31st July Isle of Man
Today
is Saturday and around 8:30 am we reached the Isle of Man. We are circling it
all morning and then anchoring off Laxey for the afternoon before sailing past
Douglas and onto Liverpool for tomorrow. Most of the morning I sat on the
balcony watching the scenery when the Sun eventually came out it was very very
hot but has clouded over again now. I have a nice view of Laxey village
from the balcony at the moment. At noon we had a solos lunch. Unlike normal
such solo lunches we had to stay in the same seat and couldn’t rotate
round and talk to other people but it was still an enjoyable event. All the
tables were for six people and we had set places. After a good meal of shrimp,
a vegetarian frittata, and an orange drizzle pudding plus wine of course, I
need a lie down to recover! In the evening we decided to have our dinner in the
grill so as to get out early and sit on our balcony for the final sail past the
Isle of Man. It was cold but lovely to watch the Sun setting over Castletown. I
am not a fan of buffets preferring to have my meals served to me but the
atmosphere is nice and the furnishings quite elegant. Tonight‘s wine was a
Californian Zinfandel. All drinks are included unless you want premium spirits
and beers. Once we had left land my friend went to the show and I went to have
a drink in the living room before coming to the cabin to write this. We arrive
in Liverpool tomorrow early and I am on a tour to Chester and Port Sunlight as
I have been to Liverpool a few times previously. The mid-cruise questionnaire
was in our cabins tonight but I really don’t have many comments. Obviously
Covid has had its impact but I have very few complaints. I am especially
impressed by the shower ventilation so that when you open the door from the
shower there is no steam in the bathroom whatsoever. The basins are quite deep
and the taps quite high so it is easy to wash your hair there instead of the
shower if you wish.
Sunday
1st August Liverpool
The
Chester and Port Sunlight was a very good tour which gave us about an hour of
walking around Chester with our guide as well as a tour around the outside of
the old city. We then drove through to Port Sunlight where we had another 10
minutes or so free time for photos. I love Port Sunlight with its arts and
crafts architecture and plenty of green spaces. We then travelled back to
Liverpool via the Mersey tunnel. We got back to the ship in time for a light
lunch on the Verandah outside. The beer-battered cod and chips is
delicious washed down with a Kentish cider. Spent the afternoon on the balcony
in the sun and watching the Mersey Ferry. We had an early-ish dinner in the
main dining room with the chaplain and his wife before going to the theatre for
the production show. It was a good troupe but I’m not a fan of 1930s music
much.
Monday
2nd August Holyhead
Today
we are in Holyhead, Anglesey. It is another lovely day with plenty of sun. It
is a tender port and this was the ship’s first time tendering passengers. There
are steep stairs down to the tender platform although I believe there is a
chairlift for those that need it. The tenders are very spacious and easy to
enter with smart wooden rails and handles. The problem for me was at the other
end with a very steep gangway from where the tender landed to the coaches. It
was not a good tour. We knew it was a panoramic scenic tour but the driver
drove so fast we were past monuments etcetera before the guided mentioned
them. We had half an hour to explore Beaumaris on our own which was good. We then
drove past the bridges to the small town with the longest name in Britain –
Llanfair…... We had another half hour stop there, ostensibly a comfort stop but
with the aim it seems for us to go shopping which we don’t think the shipping
line want us to do. We then drove back to the small harbour to reboard the
tender. There was a very, very long queue for the tender but some seats had
been set out under an awning for those who couldn’t stand long. By now the tide
had gone out and the steep gangway of the morning was even steeper going down.
It was about half an hour ride or less back to the ship, up
the stairs again and on board. As so often happens on ships, the
lifts are close to the tender pontoons so there is always congestion when you
are waiting for one. At least on this cruise we do not have to go through
security, presumably as we are so tightly controlled ashore. It was by now past
2 o’clock so we went to the Veranda again for lunch and again the delicious
beer-battered cod and chips were too good to resist.
Tuesday
3rd August at sea
The
weather could hardly have been more perfect today for our sail down the Welsh
coast and up the Bristol Channel. Most of the day was scenic cruising fairly
close to the coastal cliffs of Wales. We saw many dolphins as well as plenty of
sea birds such as gannets, shearwaters, fulmars and guillemots. The morning I
spent on deck with the ORCA team before popping down for a quick cheese roll
for lunch. Then back onto the promenade deck and finally the balcony for more
dolphin watching. My patience was rewarded with three separate pods swimming very
close to the ship. I like that all room service is inclusive so I phoned for a
couple of tins of diet Pepsi which arrived within minutes. You can order food
24/7 as well as any drinks you like. All drinks arrive in proper glasses. All the staff are excellent with a great
can-do attitude. At lunch on the Veranda, I said I fancied a roll with cheese.
This is not on the menu but the waiter soon came back with exactly what I
wanted. This is reflected throughout the ship. No one ever says it’s not my job
but instead just does as asked. In the afternoon was an impromptu deck concert
with free champagne. Today is a formal night so after getting ready my friend
and I went to the living room for a pre-dinner drink before going to the main
dining room. I chose lobster starter, a duck main course, and a delicious crème
brûlée for dessert. There are petit fours every night served by the
waiter. In non-Covid times there would also have been a cake stand near the
entrance with ginger and mints. The wine, which is included, flows freely. The was
Peter Potts but I have come to the cabin so I can watch the sail up the
Bristol channel. The show in the playhouse is live streamed to every cabin so I
can still watch him as well.
Wednesday
4th August Bristol
We
entered the lock at Royal Portbury docks around 3am and, for some reason stayed
in the lock for 2 hours before docking. That solved the mystery I saw when I
got up at 3am and saw we were in the lock. The included tour was a panoramic
tour of Bristol, but as it is my local city, I had opted for a trip to Bibury, Burford,
Tetbury and other Cotswolds villages. We had nearly an hour free time in Bibury
to explore Arlington Row - a terrace of medieval weavers’ cottages - as well as
the fulling mill and trout stream. There was time for coffee or ice cream
before boarding the coach to carry onwards. The afternoon was spent
sunbathing and watching car carriers berth and off load. At 5pm the captain
came on with his usual departure messages but then added what I suspected might
happen. A big storm was approaching from the southwest where we’re headed. I
thought we may miss the Isles of Scilly, but instead he had re-ordered our
final ports. We lost the circumnavigation of Lundy and were to proceed direct
to Falmouth arriving around 2.30pm tomorrow and stay overnight there. Then to
the Scillies on Saturday. Not sure whether we are still going to see the
Fastnet race or not now. We left, through the locks and then down the North
Somerset coast past Portishead, Clevedon and Weston-super-Mare, sailing between
Flat and Steepholms. Dinner was in the MDR before retreating to
my cabin to watch Fogwell Flax on the tv.
Thursday
5th August
It
looks more like October outside. I woke early just in time to see the Seven
Stones Lightship. As it is a little bumpy now, I had breakfast in the dining
room rather than the grill - mixed berries and blueberry pancakes. People
at home are asking me if Saga are worth the extra. Only you can
decide that. I can only describe the differences, many of which are
quite small but overall add up to a lot. We are treated as adults, with no tour
stickers put on our coats. Around 11am stewards walk around the prom deck with
trays of ice water, coffee and hot chocolate or will get whatever you wish. The
staff are very anticipatory, holding chairs out for you before you have even
decided to sit down. Craft classes, including materials, are free. All drinks,
food etc is included, such as ice cream, snacks etc Room service is free
24/7, even dinner ordered off the MDR menu. Cabins are spacious and
even the lowest grade has all amenities. Luggage is handled from home to
cabin and back to home. The new ships are very disabled friendly with automatic
doors to open decks and level access. Birthdays are automatically noted
and a cake provided for free. The track and trace system on board is simple but
effective. Every venue you visit such as the dining room, the spa, the grill et
cetera you give your cabin number and it is recorded where are you sat and who
you sat next to. In the buffet you are allocated a table. All tables have
numbers and you have the table for the duration you wish. This means that as a
solo for example if you get up to get something from the buffet your table
won’t be cleared and you lose it to someone else.
We
arrived in Falmouth around 2.30pm round the headland with St Mawes castle and
St Anthony’s lighthouse, and are staying overnight. All the tours have been
rearranged so we don’t miss any, just not on the original day. All the included
tours are this afternoon. I joined the last one leaving at 3.45pm for 3 hours,
driving from Falmouth, through Penryn to the mining areas around Redruth and
then to Marazion for a photo stop opposite St Michael’s Mount. Then we
returned via Helston to the ship. It was frustrating seeing the town all lit up
and inviting but unable to go ashore. However, as the winds increased the
temptation waned. After dinner I went to the Britannia Lounge for some
light music and to watch the dancing. No dance hosts are on board due to
Covid.
Friday
6th Falmouth day 2
Woke
to a bright morning over Falmouth. There are more crew drills this morning
while most of the passengers are off on tours or river cruises. It was the
first time I saw a visual flashing light in conjunction with the normal general
alarm signal. There are lots of places to eat and mid-morning, the Living Room
is the place to be for Danishes and coffee or hot chocolate, all free
(included) of course. I have a relaxed day on board since I decided the
possible 20 wooden steps to board the river cruiser might be too much for
me. As it happened, I was glad since, due apparently to the weather, the
boat cruised the Fal rather than the Helford river! We left Falmouth an hour
later than planned at 7 pm due to the winds being too strong to safely leave
the berth. The winds kept up all night and the seas were the roughest it
has been so far but the ship is very stable. It was beginning to look doubtful
for our tender ride to the Scilly Islands though.
Saturday
7th August Isles of Scilly
The
next morning when I got up and looked out of the window it was more like
December than August. In fact, the sight of these rocky outcrops and islands
reminded me most of my first sight of Greenland. I had decided that I would not
be going ashore in any event and this was reinforced when eventually the shore
tenders arrived. The captain had asked for the most comfortable and enclosed
boats but that was not what we were offered – small open boats with enclose
wheelhouse, boats that required you to step off the tendering pontoon and onto
the side of the boat and step down onto the seats. Given the 3-foot swell the Captain
called it off and we sailed away an hour or two after our arrival. We then had
a leisurely sail to reach Cowes on the Isle of Wight on Sunday morning to
anchor and watch the start of the Fastnet boat race. By the time we had reached
the coast of Cornwall the sun had come out and it was quite hot so I retreated
to our balcony to watch dolphins again. For dinner that evening we had booked
Amalfi, the Italian restaurant on board. The food was amazing, the best Italian
food I can remember since we ate on-board Nautica. I chose a shrimp and
courgette starter, swordfish for the main and for desert we had a complimentary
birthday cake for Caryll.
Sunday
8th August Cowes
I woke up to find us
very close to Cowes and just about to anchor ready for our grandstand view of
the start of the 2021 Rolex Fastnet yacht race. Had breakfast in the grill - a
delicious freshly made waffle with maple syrup and a cappuccino. On Saga you
can have any coffee you like with any meal – cappuccino, Americano, latte, etcetera
- they are all included. There is a church service this morning in the
Britannia lounge led by the on-board chaplain with contributions from the
captain. We have been given our disembarkation instructions so the end is very
near now. There were some good offers to stay on board for the next cruise but
sadly I have commitments and cannot do that. The race was very exciting; much
more so than I was expecting. Our position ‘right in the way’ as the captain
put it, meant the yachts had to sail very close. The winds were quite strong
and two yachts were dismasted. There was a staggered start for different
classes of yacht so in all it lasted from 11 am until nearly 1 pm. We went in
for lunch and had a delightful table of six sharing with the ORCA team. During
lunch the captain announced a surprise for us. After dinner tonight, or supper
as he calls it, there is to be a private firework display from a barge close by
Adventure. Particularly nice to hear was that he is allowing as many crew as
can make it to join passengers in watching the display.
The fireworks were from a barge
moored just off the port side of Adventure and the display lasted a good 5
minutes, during which time stewards came round with trays of brandy and port.
The start of the Queen tribute show was delayed by 15 minutes to allow people
time to get to the theatre after the fireworks.
Monday 9th August at sea
Monday was lovely sunshine again
and the usual final day stuff to sort. My disembarkation information was
ambiguous as to whether Caryll and I had a shared or separate cars home - but
it was sorted eventually. In the morning I watched the celebrity chef, Kevin
Woodford perform Ready Steady Cook with Nigel Blanks, CEO of Saga Cruises
and the captain Kim Tanner as contestants. It was very amusing and I watched it
live on cabin TV while packing. In the afternoon I particularly wanted to see
the Cruise Summary of wildlife recorded by ORCA. Animals included Minke whales,
common, bottle-nose and Risso dolphins, harbour porpoise, a loggerhead turtle
and basking sharks. Two of my photos of dolphins were featured. That evening we
ate in The Supper Club again as it was Caryll’s birthday. I don't know what
happened regarding the furnishings on the ship, but that is the only venue I
cannot get a comfortable seat. The first time we ate there I couldn’t get out
of the chairs so we had a banquette booth but I could hardly get in between the
table and seat - OK I know I could lose some weight but then so could many
people on board! Food was good though. Then it was time for bed and putting out
cases. There wasn't a single case in the corridor as we returned to our cabin
about 10.30pm and I soon understood why. As soon as I put something out, it was
magically whisked away by crew, who must have been hiding on watch!
Tuesday 10th August
Tilbury
