I've been mulling over the erosion of long-held traditions on the launch of a new ship, particularly since Princess have chosen a man to be godparent of their new vessel, Discovery Princess and Arvia, like Iona, won't be named until months after her maiden voyage. I suppose the changes are all calculated to garner more publicity but it makes me sad that centuries of nautical superstitions are being thrown away. Interesting that one ship who sailed on her maiden voyage before being named was Titanic. As with Iona before her, I was originally booked on the maiden voyage of Arvia on 9th December 2022. However, this was cancelled with barely a month to go, as the ship wasn't finished in time. The new 'Maiden Voyage' is now on 23 December 2022, but last week P&O Cruises announced a naming ceremony would be in March in the Caribbean, so again, the ship will sail before her official naming. I suppose it is because these new modern leviathans are regarded by their operators as floating resorts or hotels rather than ships, that maritime traditions fall by the wayside. Sometimes I think they are actually designed with as few views of the ocean as possible to reinforce the belief you haven't left the safety of land. Cruises are now marketed as 'cruise holidays', executive pursers are hotel managers, purser's desks are reception... Ok, perhaps I am showing my age but I choose to cruise precisely because it is different from a resort holiday and blurring these lines actively discourages me from choosing those companies that don't see this. I know they are chasing new markets, with 7-day ferry-like itineraries but perhaps the new-to-cruising demographic the companies want might actually like to be at sea; to revel in being out of sight of land; to do something different from a week in Marbella or Ibiza. The other factor companies might like to note is that, given the rising cost of living, the older, more traditional cruisers (not tied to limited work leave or paying mortgages) they are putting off with these new marketing strategies, might actually be their saviours in the months to come. Below: P&O Cruises Iona in SOuthampton.

Kemi, Finland

In AUgust I spent three weeks travelling around the BAltic and up the Gulf of Bothnia on Saga's Spirit of Discovery. Kemi, right at the top of the Gulf of Bothnia, close to the border with Norway nd not far from Russia, was a new port for me and not on the useual cruising itineraries. By no means a tourist town but still interesting with an odd mix of traditional wooden homes and modern Brutalist architecture. Best remembered by me for a fabulous charity shop - think Finnish glass birds for £20. Just couldn't carry them.

Normal service is resumed

 It's been a while since the Spirit of Adventure maiden cruise but finally, this year, things feel more normal, starting with a bargain cruise to the CAnaries for some early sun. 

This cruise was  a new one launched by P&O, once the date of Aurora's return to service was set. The price was too good to pass up as Aurora is my favourite P&O ship - long may she sail.

And so, on the 1st April 2022 I was waiting, luggage at the ready for my taxi to Southampton. My driver turned up at 9am and we had a very fast and straightforward run to the Mayflower Terminal, Southampton, arriving before my Southampton-based friend, at 11.30. As per the current Covid Regulations, my luggage was taken up to the hole in the wall while I set off for a lateral flow test and for my documents to be checked – vaccination certificate, insurance, boarding pass and health clearance. Then I went back to the waiting area to wait for a text with my results. Once I was cleared to embark there was another short wait for security to open and then I was taken on board. The new procedure is to go straight to your muster station and have your card scanned so they know you know where it is, then to collect a cruise card from your cabin. To go to the Loyalty Lunch, I was also supposed to collect my invitation from the cabin. It soon became clear, I was the first to board and on the ship, no-one was ready! After waiting at Masquerade for ages, I was taken to my cabin to leave my hand luggage and collect my cruise card etc. Finally, my card was scanned and I could go to the Alexandria Restaurant. It was back to being a buffet meal, with very free-flowing alcohol. My friend joined me and we stayed there until cabins were opened at 3pm. Luggage took a long time to arrive so we watched the safety video and then went on deck for sailaway. We stayed out on deck until the ship reached Fawley, exchanging a salute with Ventura which was in Ocean Terminal. Then back to the cabin to unpack and change. Our dining allocation was for club dining on table 259 for 8. In the event, two ladies turned up, saw the table size and asked to move, leaving us with a lovely couple. We had great conversations and fun for the duration of the cruise. No-one else arrived. Our waiters were Xavier and Clinton. Sadly, there are no wine waiters any more – a permanent change. Bed after dinner as long day.

 

Saturday 2^nd April at sea

The first of three straight sea days. It was a grey morning so I was in no rush to get up. Familiarised myself with Aurora again and while my friend went off to play quoits, I sat out on deck for a while, broken by lunch in the Medina Restaurant. In the evening we had booked to go to the 6.45pm Headliners show On the Horizon. One positive aspect of reducing numbers in the theatre, is having 3 shows a night. This means you can go to the early show, have a drink, dinner and then maybe a different show at 10.30pm or the syndicate quiz.

Sunday 3^rd April at sea

After breakfast in the Horizon buffet, we both attended the church service led by Captain Simon Love. It was the first of three Gala or Celebration Nights tonight, although no cocktail party due to Covid. Instead, we were given vouchers for a glass of champagne, red or white wine, beer or a soft drink. This we drank in the Crows Next where the captain came round and chatted to everyone.

Monday 4^th April at sea

Another relaxed morning. Today we had the first solos get-together, as it had been forgotten on previous days! A request to Entertainment Manager Paul Burton sorted it. A surprising number of men turned up! I sat out on deck in the, now much warmer, weather before going in to change for our Baltic & Ligurian lunch at noon. No officers are allowed to attend at present but, despite misgivings, our table of 1 couple and the remainder single ladies turned out very entertaining, although the couple left immediately as they wanted to sit with friends. That evening we watched the new Headliners show New Romantics at 6.45 and Rhinestone Country at 10.30 after dinner (we didn’t stay as I felt Pulse were not suited to this kind of music). A word about dinner – the always available options have gone. Steak and salmon are always on every dinner menu but very little chicken and no melon starter. Instead, there are three plant-based options – two veggie, and one vegan, two meat and two fish.

Tuesday 5^th April La Palma

Had breakfast in the buffet, gathered by my helper, Herculan. Somehow, he always seemed to spot me before I saw him, and waved before getting me a tray and my usual breakfast. While my friend was off on a tour, I had opted to wander ashore on my own. I had been here twice before and it is a pretty town and easily walkable. However, this was the first time I was going to be on my own in a foreign town since my heart surgery and I was surprised at how subconsciously nervous I was. I was helped down the gangway and directed to the shuttle buses to the port gates. It was a lovely sunny day, although very windy. I crossed the road and picked up a map from the tourist office. On this cruise there was no port speaker or any port guides available. I just wandered up the main street, talking time to sit in the big square in front of the Matriz de El Salvador church and enjoy some people-watching and soaking up the warmth. 

After a couple of hours, I returned to the port via the Avenida Maritima. I intended walking to the ship but as a shuttle was there waiting, I took the easy option. Back on board I had a light lunch in the buffet and sat in the sun. We both stayed out on deck at sailaway until we had passed the lighthouse on the end of the mole and Santa Cruz was a small dot in the distance, then went in to change for dinner. We watched vocalist Jenny Williams in theatre before eating, then I went to bed as tired.

Wednesday 6^th April Tenerife

I had booked a tour here so we had cabin breakfast delivered (free as the delivery charge was suspended due, I suppose, to Covid). As we were eating, I spotted Europa 2 arrive and sail past us to berth. In front of her was Sea Cloud Spirit and the other side of the harbour, AIDANova. 

Then I went down to the dockside to find my tour bus. Tenerife is shaped a little like a duck and we were going to explore the beak! Our first stop was at La Isla Beach, where the coach stopped right next to beach front cemetery – a nice final resting place. Then we started to climb up precipitous narrow winding roads to the top of the mountains, before slowly going back down to Taganana. There was a brief photo stop at a beautiful beach with crashing surf before going back up to a winery for wine tasting and nibbles of bread, olives and local soft cheese.

Then it was back along more mountain roads, through the forest with native house leeks, creamy lichens and other unique plant life down to Santa Cruz. There is a deep valley running all along the ‘beak’ and the hair-pin bends to negotiate this terrain were sharp and scary. The real hazard, we were told, were the amount of rentacars, driven by tourists with no experience of this type of road and who froze on meeting a coach. Back on board, it was lunch and another sit in the sun with a beer. We were the first of the four cruise ships to leave and I took photos as they faded into the distance. The Headliners show, Destination Dance was postponed – probably due to a performer or two catching Covid, so it was a cocktail, dinner and bed.

Thursday 7^th April Gran Canaria

The third port in a row and I had swapped my original tour as I felt 7 hours was too long for me. This one went to the same places but in a more leisurely fashion. So, after another cabin breakfast, I walked onto the dockside to board a coach to Maspalomas sand dunes. These are on the opposite side of the island to the port at Las Palmas and are a 5 square kilometre site of huge natural dunes, formed by a tsunami in 1755. 

Next, we drove through this arid landscape to the pretty seaside resort of Puerto de Mogán. The coach had to park opposite the bus station so it was a fair walk down towards the marina and seafront. Then across a small bridge and to the famous area of narrow streets and over-arching bougainvillea, hibiscus and other colourful flowers. We had just over an hour free time to explore. The river that apparently gave this place the nickname Venice of the Canary Islands was completely dry but the flowers were beautiful and I enjoyed a stroll in warm sun – 22 degrees of warm sun in fact. On the beach, two men were building a sand sculpture of a house and garden with sand trees etc. Back on the coach it was a different drive back to the port, past the old town with its cathedral of black volcanic stone and white render. 

Changed for dinner and watched the Headliners show Applause at 6.45, before a cocktail and dinner. So far, I have been very impressed with the new Headliners shows. The only one on this cruise I have seen before is Destination Dance (delayed until final day).

 

Friday 8^th April Lanzarote

This was my first visit to Lanzarote so, of course, the obvious tour was the Fire Mountains – Montañas del Fuego. So, after another cabin breakfast, I set off from Arricife across the island to the Parc Nacional de Timanfaya. We stopped first at the visitor centre to watch a demonstration of brushwood being lowered into a hole and set alight, followed by water being thrown into a metal tube set into the ground and a geyser of steam whooshing upwards. 

We then re-boarded the coach for a drive through the landscape. I have never seen anywhere like this before. It was a vast lava field but unlike Iceland, whose lava fields are covered with green mosses, this are was bleak and grey. The largely level areas were interspersed with old volcanic cones and tunnels could be seen where the thin laval crust had broken over a bubble of air. The single-track road wound through the fields, sometimes offering a view to the horizon, at others the coach was surrounded by six-foot-high walls with stalactites of lava hanging from, what once was, the ceiling of a tunnel. 

This road is the only access to the Parc, and you have to board a bus to see it. No-one is allowed into the parc alone due to the danger to both person and lava of cracking a thin crust and falling into a tunnel. I could have spent a day there just absorbing the sights but eventually we arrived back at the visitor centre and drove out of the parc. By now, there were  long lines of visitor cars waiting to park and take a tour. Our next stop was at an aloe vera farm where we had a demonstration of how to prepare and use the amazing plant for medicinal and cosmetic purposes. Finally, we went to a winery for a taste of local dry or sweet wine. Volcanic soils are rich in nutrients for vines etc and as we drove, we could see the unique method of planting here with one vine, surrounded by a semi-circular wall of rocks to protect it from the wind. 

At the winery I wandered into the craft shop next door, which happened to have a jewellery section and bought a pretty silver ring of green peridot and black polished lava. We drove back to the ship past the home of the famous artist Cesar Manrique. Back on the ship, I had my usual lunch of cheese and biscuits while sitting outside in the sun, before taking some photos of AIDANova who had beaten us into port that morning. That evening we went to the early performance of the Headliners show Applause.

 

Saturday 9^th April at sea

Finally, a relaxing sea day as we sail north now to Lisbon. After breakfast in the Horizon, I went to the solo’s meeting, then pottered most of the day, sitting out on promenade deck while it was still warm enough. At 5.15 I had booked the hairdresser as a treat and it was our second formal night. Then to cabin to change before watching vocalist, Stephen Bayliss at 7.30 in Carmens. After dinner we watched The Four Ds in the theatre at 10.30 but they mostly sang fifties music so not my thing.

 

Sunday 10^th April Lisbon

As this was my ninth time in Lisbon, I had decided not to bother to go into the city. Caryll went off in the shuttle bus and I wandered around the new cruise terminal. I wanted a couple of gifts for people back home so bought some chocolate and a Xmas bauble, before the long trek back along the airbridge. On the way I took photos of Ponant Cruises' Le Bougainville, which was berthed ahead of us, and Sea Cloud, at anchor in the Tagus River. I started to pack a little in the afternoon as we heard reports it cold be rough on the way home.

 Monday 11^th April at sea

The first of our two sea days homeward bound. No one at solo’s so wandered round the shops a little. Despite warnings about potential rough seas, it is still pretty calm. Out on our port side is Spirit of Adventure, also homeward bound from the Canaries. I took some photos as she is our next cruise ship! Did the Individual quiz at 5.30 but didn’t do very well.

Tuesday 12^th April at sea

Packing day but still managed to sit out on deck as the seas are calm and the sun warm still. We just arrived at Champions for the quiz when there was an announcement for All Hands to Flying Stations. This was preparatory for a helicopter medivac and since the whole aft end of the ship had to be evacuated for safety, we headed up to the Crows Nest to watch for the helicopter. Aurora had already altered course to head towards Plymouth and the coastguard aircraft arrived about 6pm. Apparently the crew were complimented for their efficiency and the patient was soon off to hospital, and hopefully recovery. After changing for dinner, we had drinks in Crows Nest and then went to eat.

 

Wednesday 13^th April Southampton

Waited in the card room for assisted disembarkation. Driving via the M3, M4 and M5, I was home by 11.30am.

 

In conclusion – cruising post Covid

Pros: I really like 3 shows a night as you can see 2 every evening, or go to the syndicate quiz, even if on second sitting.

Cons: Why is there muzack everywhere on deck now, even on prom. Deck!, No voyage log, no evening turndown, no port guides or presenter. Solos meet unhosted, deck games unhosted. Mainly, though I am not keen on the new dinner menus. The ‘always available’ options have gone. Now there are two fish dishes, salmon, steak and three veggie meals – two vegetarian and one vegan. I eat largely vegetarian at home but I missed chicken, which we only had one night. Sommeliers have also gone now and the wine list is smaller.

However, I really enjoyed the cruise. The crew were lovely and so pleased to be back at work. The weather was perfect – warm, sunny and the seas mostly flat calm. Perfect.