South America - part 7

Sun 18^th January Antarctica

Today is the first of three days spent cruising the Antarctic Peninsula - three days that were some of the most magical of my life! The scenery was so majestic, bleak, beautiful and desolate; so pure and clean yet so alive with wildlife.

 

We arrived at Elephant Island on schedule. The island is most famous as the desolate refuge of Ernest Shackleton and his crew in 1916. Following the loss of their ship Endurance in the Weddell Sea ice, the 28 exhausted men reached Cape Valentine on Elephant Island after a harrowing ordeal on drifting ice floes. I woke just before the alarm went and hastily dressed. I had put everything out last night so it was quick and then went up to the observation deck under bridge on Deck 6. It was a stunning scene with the sun still rising over rugged mountains. I spent the whole morning on deck taking photos. Grabbed coffee, croissants and lunch when we could. Saw an abundance of whales, penguins, fur seals etc plus a zodiac from the Peruvian scientific base we passed, its occupants waving madly at us.

 

After Elephant Island we sailed to the South Shetland Islands and Admiralty Bay.

Finally I saw not just one but three or four humpback whale tails or flukes! I have seen many whales over my cruising career, but never managed to get that classic shot of the flukes coming out of the water as they dive. Well - now  I saw so many I didn't know where to look first!

I came in about 4.45 for drinks and then we had an early dinner as there was to be more to see at 9pm when we reached Deception Island! After dinner we got dressed up again and we went into the Crow’s Nest - until I saw a whale again so it was outdoors again, switching between Deck 8 or the promenade until sunset at 10pm.

Deception Island was spectacular with penguin rookeries and whales everywhere as well as a Cape Petrel breeding site. It is an active volcanic caldera. Took photos of flocks of Cape Petrels among much else. Bed after hot shower. Up at 7am tomorrow!