Friday 3 March - Sydney day 2
Weather: Dry, good visibility, overcast
Temperature: 24C
Wind: Light airs
Temperature: 24C
Wind: Light airs
We didn’t wake up till 8am, so got ready and had a quick
breakfast before going out through the cruise terminal. It was busy with people
disembarking but we made our way through the throng and out to the road. We walked along
and turned right up into The Rocks area. This is the oldest surviving part of
Sydney and still has historic buildings - terraces with iron verandas and
lovely Victorian shop fronts - and narrow streets.
The sky was looking somewhat
threatening so we tried to keep within easy distance of somewhere to shelter if
necessary. Sure enough, while we were browsing The Rocks Market, it started to
rain – hard! We dived into the nearest pub – a German Bier Keller of all places
– and had a drink while waiting for it to stop. However, it showed no sign of
that so eventually we donned the plastic ponchos we had been given in Indonesia
and set off again. We worked our way round, through the Rocks Square and
gaining a good view of the Harbour Bridge.
There were Mynah Birds and Rainbow
Lorikeets flying above us. Soon we were back at the terminal from the other
end. I didn’t feel able to do a lot more so Caryll set off for Darling Harbour
by ferry and I walked slowly up to the end of Circular Quay, finding a money
exchange to change my $Singapore to $US and treating myself to a Royal
Copenhagen ice cream. By now the sun was out again and I planned to eat it on
the wide promenade area watching the ferries but just as I sat down the rain
started again. I managed to get undercover by the ferry terminals and then went
back on board Aurora, taking lots of photos of the ship and Opera House on the
way.
Once dried out and changed I did a load of laundry. Caryll returned about
5.30 and we went on deck to watch sailaway – at least that was the plan!
However due to admin error, so we were told, we were delayed sailing by around
2½ hours. The Captain even joked that if we stayed any longer we should get
Australian citizenship! In the meantime we went into dinner to meet our new tablemates after which I
went to bed as my cold is back with a vengeance.
Saturday 4 March – Sunday 5 March at sea
Weather: Dry, good visibility, overcast
Temperature: 23C
Wind: Force 9
Sea state: Rough
Temperature: 23C
Wind: Force 9
Sea state: Rough
A bumpy sea day as we head towards New Zealand. Since the
800 or so Australians boarded yesterday I have seen two major altercations! One
was at the muster drill yesterday – a new regulation means that anyone is on
board for 28 days or more has to attend repeat drills. Anyway, there were two
couples in front, one of the ladies was fanning herself. Then I heard raised
voices and a husband defending his wife and one couple moved to the other side
of the aisle. Then later in Anderson’s, an older lady got down from the bar and
shouted at a man that she hated him, he ruined everything and she didn’t want
to see him ever again! She walked over to a chair and he followed but a younger
woman (her daughter?) separated them and calmed her down. We now have two sea days
crossing the Tasman Sea. It has been grey, wet and rough. Since my throat is
sore from coughing, I stayed in bed all morning, getting up for lunch in the
Medina Restaurant. I also made it to dinner where we have three more people . After dinner I went to see the
comedian/impressionist whom I thought very funny, although since he was
Australian, some of the impersonations were lost on me. I particularly enjoyed
him doing Billy Connelly explaining the rules of cricket.
Monday 6 March - Milford, Thompson, Doubtful and Dusky
Sounds
Weather: Dry, good visibility, overcast
Temperature: 15C
Wind: Light Airs
Temperature: 15C
Wind: Light Airs
We awoke at 7am, got dressed and went straight out on deck
as we thought that was when we were first entering Milford Sound, It was very
cold! In the event it was a little later. I managed to find a good spot on the
prom deck as it was too exposed and cold on the Sun Deck. I stayed there most
of the day, popping up to grab a sandwich and bringing it back down at lunchtime.
We started in Milford Sound before sailing onto Dusky and Doubtful via Thompson
Sounds. All day (and until we leave New Zealand) we are shadowing/being shadowed by Dawn Princess. It was a good day, despite the mist to begin with. I saw a whale,
dolphins, seals, albatrosses and sea lions.
It reminded me very much of the
Chilean Fjords, including the cold temperatures! Went
to watch the Maori performing group with song and dance – I really enjoyed
them. Dinner was good that evening.
Tuesday 7 March - Dunedin
Weather: Dry, good visibility, 6/8 cloud
Temperature: 13C
Wind: Force 4
Temperature: 13C
Wind: Force 4
We rose early as we had been told we would be passing an
albatross colony – the only one in the world on the mainland – on our way to
berth at Dunedin, New Zealand. Unfortunately it was on the wrong side of the
ship for the light as the sun was rising directly behind the cliff making it
hard to spot and impossible to photograph. Dawn Princess beat us in and was
berthed just across from us. We were off on a unique tour today on the Taeiri
Gorge Railway. This runs right onto the dockside, so after breakfast and
mustering in the theatre, we were led across the dock, between shipping containers
and piles of felled timber to board the train.
Although still part of Dunedin
Railways, it is run on a volunteer basis in order to save the magnificent line into the spectacular Central Otago
Hinterland and up the rugged Otago Coast north of Dunedin. With everyone seated
in the vintage carriages we set off, slowly at first, from Port Chalmers where
the ships berth along the coast to Dunedin Station. From there we started a
gradual climb, ever higher till we were hugging one side of the river gorge.
Slowly the landscape changed from rolling hills and sheep stations to rocky
cliffsides covered in Larch and Fir, the line crossing huge chasms on trestle
bridges.
We were well fed as we travelled with a bottle of water, coffee and a
cookie, elevenses of cheese and biscuits, lunch of a quiche, sandwich and
carrot cake. Throughout the trip we also had a choice of Riesling or Cabernet
Sauvignon New Zealand wines – I had three delicious glasses. At the end at Pukerangi,
there was a little craft market but while Caryll shopped there I was more
interested in a farmer with three dogs rounding up and moving a flock of hundreds
of sheep.
As we set off back again it was suggested everyone change sides so we
all saw a different view (I think a few refused – there is always 1!). Sadly at
one point all views out of the window were marred by a short rain shower. At
Dunedin Station we had half an hour to get off and take photos as it is a
remarkable building.
Some, including Caryll decided to stay there and return on
the shuttle bus but I re-boarded the train for the final section back to Port
Chalmers. It had been a wonderful day with spectacular views and an insight
into the heart of New Zealand’s South Island.
Wednesday 8 March - Akaroa
Weather: Dry, good visibility, overcast
Temperature: 12C
Wind: Force 2
Temperature: 12C
Wind: Force 2
Woke up just as we were sailing up to our anchorage at
Akaroa. The surrounding scenery was rolling grassy hills with small trees on
the summits - every shade of green against turquoise water.
Caryll was off on
an early tour to meet friends in Christchurch. I had no fixed plans so had a
leisurely breakfast and then picked up a tender ticket. It was about 30-40
minutes before my group was called for boarding and I caught the lift down to
the tender pontoons on Deck 4. What I didn’t realise was that we were supposed
to get our bags searched (for contraband food!) on Deck 5 first, but someone
got a lady down to check my bag as well as another passenger’s. It was pretty
bumpy getting into the tender and you had to judge when to step on to it, but
15 mins later we were ashore in Akaroa. The town is really the gateway to
Christchurch but I decided to explore here instead. It
reminded me very much of a New England seaside town with clapboard buildings, a
lighthouse and boat jetties.
There were lots of souvenir shops, some excellent fish and chip restaurants and waterside walks. The main street ran alongside the water with side streets off where I found old historic buildings, a wonderful jewellery shop full of local gems set in silver (bought pair of silver tree-fern earrings with paua shell), and another gem of a wool shop, where I saw my first possum wool! Possums are killed as pests but now their fur is woven with Merino wool making a beautiful soft, warm yarn. Dawn Princess is still with us, commencing tendering shortly after we did. A tour must have just come back at 1pm and the town was suddenly flooded with Japanese and Americans. After wandering the streets and up as far as the lighthouse, it was 3pm. As the weather turned showery I decided to return to Aurora. Caryll returned on the last but one tender and we met up on the sun deck where I was taking photos of the magnificent landscape highlighted by the setting sun, all rain clouds gone. The undulating hills threw stark shadows and cormorants were flying home to roost in groups of threes and fives – always odd numbers!
A table-mate joined us and pointed out the Elephant Rock that she had seen on tour that day. The evening was so beautiful we couldn’t tear ourselves away until 8pm which left very little time to prepare for dinner.
Just before we ordered our meal, the Maori group that had been on board since Sydney, came and sang a song in recognition and appreciation of the waiters that had served them dinner. For dinner I decided to be adventurous and try the crocodile sausages which, I think I may have liked had they not put so much chili in them it burnt my mouth so I had to change them for a pasta dish. After dinner I went to the show – a superb singer and harpist Alana Conway – who sang all my favourite songs. Then to bed as another early start tomorrow.
There were lots of souvenir shops, some excellent fish and chip restaurants and waterside walks. The main street ran alongside the water with side streets off where I found old historic buildings, a wonderful jewellery shop full of local gems set in silver (bought pair of silver tree-fern earrings with paua shell), and another gem of a wool shop, where I saw my first possum wool! Possums are killed as pests but now their fur is woven with Merino wool making a beautiful soft, warm yarn. Dawn Princess is still with us, commencing tendering shortly after we did. A tour must have just come back at 1pm and the town was suddenly flooded with Japanese and Americans. After wandering the streets and up as far as the lighthouse, it was 3pm. As the weather turned showery I decided to return to Aurora. Caryll returned on the last but one tender and we met up on the sun deck where I was taking photos of the magnificent landscape highlighted by the setting sun, all rain clouds gone. The undulating hills threw stark shadows and cormorants were flying home to roost in groups of threes and fives – always odd numbers!
A table-mate joined us and pointed out the Elephant Rock that she had seen on tour that day. The evening was so beautiful we couldn’t tear ourselves away until 8pm which left very little time to prepare for dinner.
Just before we ordered our meal, the Maori group that had been on board since Sydney, came and sang a song in recognition and appreciation of the waiters that had served them dinner. For dinner I decided to be adventurous and try the crocodile sausages which, I think I may have liked had they not put so much chili in them it burnt my mouth so I had to change them for a pasta dish. After dinner I went to the show – a superb singer and harpist Alana Conway – who sang all my favourite songs. Then to bed as another early start tomorrow.
Thursday 9 March - Wellington
Weather: Dry, good visibility, overcast
Temperature: 17C
Wind: Force 3
Temperature: 17C
Wind: Force 3
We arrived in the capital of New Zealand around 8am. Although
it was initially cloudy, it turned into a lovely day aside from a short light
shower while we were at the top of the cable car station. We were exploring
independently today so had breakfast around 9am and then collected a shuttle
bus ticket. Due to earthquake damage from last November, we were not allowed
to walk through the port area. You could see great cracks down the walls of
some of the buildings. The shuttle dropped us off in Brandon Street by David
Jones’ and we set off walking, past the lower cable car station to the
information bureau. This is in temporary accommodation, again due to the
earthquake.
There we bought a 45NZ$ ticket for the ho-ho bus. Unlike other ho-ho buses we have travelled on, these are minibuses with a driver/guide. At every stop they text back to the office how many got off and on and where you intend to pick it up again. This way no one is ever stranded. We set off round this attractive city, stopping at Mount Victoria viewpoint, which gave views in two directions right over the city and water.
I also spotted a Fantail bird as it flew past in a strange darting flight catching insects. The sounds too were deafening with cicadas. Then we continued to stop 6 – the top station of the cable car.
We left the bus here intending to walk through the botanic gardens to the rose garden and pick up the bus again there. First we had coffee and cake and admired the view. Then we picked up maps and set off through the gardens – however the path was much steeper than I expected and, given my tendon issue, we had to stop and walk back to the bus stop at which we got off. We continued our guided tour on the mini-bus as far as the Te Papa museum where we got off again.
This is a magnificent museum with clearly a lot of investment in
buildings, displays and exhibitions. One sad thing about my travels is that the
more I see in other countries, the more depressed I become about the UK. In
other places they seem to value culture, heritage and their past so much more
than we do, where savage cuts in funding have resulted in museum closures and
loss of heritage. We didn’t have time to see the whole museum but I did view
the Maori galleries and we spent some time (and money) in the museum shop. When
we left we walked along the waterfront area. This is very pleasant with the old
warehouses restored and turned into pubs and museum.
Both the Wellington Museum and the Contemporary Art Museum were along this stretch. There was also a small craft market. Caryll and I then separated as she wanted to walk to the Parliament Building or Beehive as it is nicknamed. I made my way back to Brandon Street and the shuttle, which it turned out was now a combined one for both Aurora and Dawn Princess – most on board were for Dawn. Once back on Aurora I collapsed onto my bed. My heel had been sore all day and I had taking a lot of painkillers to get me round. After a rest I went up for a drink and a sandwich and to watch Dawn Princess leave – an hour before us.
I had a great view of her from Deck 13 where I found Caryll. After Dawn had gone we both went down to the prom deck for our departure. Then it was time to wash and change for dinner – the table is gelling nicely now.
There we bought a 45NZ$ ticket for the ho-ho bus. Unlike other ho-ho buses we have travelled on, these are minibuses with a driver/guide. At every stop they text back to the office how many got off and on and where you intend to pick it up again. This way no one is ever stranded. We set off round this attractive city, stopping at Mount Victoria viewpoint, which gave views in two directions right over the city and water.
I also spotted a Fantail bird as it flew past in a strange darting flight catching insects. The sounds too were deafening with cicadas. Then we continued to stop 6 – the top station of the cable car.
We left the bus here intending to walk through the botanic gardens to the rose garden and pick up the bus again there. First we had coffee and cake and admired the view. Then we picked up maps and set off through the gardens – however the path was much steeper than I expected and, given my tendon issue, we had to stop and walk back to the bus stop at which we got off. We continued our guided tour on the mini-bus as far as the Te Papa museum where we got off again.
Both the Wellington Museum and the Contemporary Art Museum were along this stretch. There was also a small craft market. Caryll and I then separated as she wanted to walk to the Parliament Building or Beehive as it is nicknamed. I made my way back to Brandon Street and the shuttle, which it turned out was now a combined one for both Aurora and Dawn Princess – most on board were for Dawn. Once back on Aurora I collapsed onto my bed. My heel had been sore all day and I had taking a lot of painkillers to get me round. After a rest I went up for a drink and a sandwich and to watch Dawn Princess leave – an hour before us.
I had a great view of her from Deck 13 where I found Caryll. After Dawn had gone we both went down to the prom deck for our departure. Then it was time to wash and change for dinner – the table is gelling nicely now.
Friday 10 March at sea
Weather: Dry, good visibility, 7/8 cloud
Temperature: 19C
Wind: Force 2
Sea state: Moderate
Temperature: 19C
Wind: Force 2
Sea state: Moderate
Got up around 9am, went to the solos meet and then had
brunch before settling on the prom deck with my iPod. It wasn’t too cold and it
was good to get fresh air. One of the solos joined me for a chat until my spa
appointment to have my hair coloured and fringe cut. I spent the afternoon
downloading and sorting photos. It is a formal night tonight. Bed after dinner as early start
tomorrow.
Saturday 11 March - Tauranga
Weather: Rain, Good visibility, overcast
Temperature: 21C
Wind: Force 3
Temperature: 21C
Wind: Force 3
It was a grey drizzly morning, although supposed to brighten
up later. Today I was going to get another tick on my bucket list with a tour
to the volcanic springs at Rotorua.
Caryll went off for her tour at 8am, whilst I had a more leisurely start
at 8.30. I collected my tour sticker and
went down the gangway to the coach. Unfortunately it hadn’t arrived yet so I
sheltered from the pouring rain with an American lady and her cabin share
friend, under the gangway canopy. The coach arrived about 15 mins later and we
all boarded, then drove through the port of Tauranga out into the countryside,
past kiwi fruit farms, rolling hills and groves of tree ferns. It was
outstandingly beautiful ... but very wet!
Due to the weather we went to the
Agrodome first instead of leaving it till last. To give an idea of the weather
– on arrival I saw three ducks scuttling to shelter under a picnic table! I
wasn’t expecting to like this part of the tour much but actually it was fun and
interesting. A sheep-shearer compere brought onto the stage the 14 different
breeds of sheep bred in NZ, explaining the differences.
Then he introduced the two different breeds of sheepdog they use – a silent pointer type and a noisy barking type. The latter is used when rounding up huge herds where they lose sight of the dogs but can hear where they are. He then used the dogs to herd some ducks, sheared a sheep and got some audience members to milk a cow and used the milk to feed some lambs.
All in all it was entertaining and educational. I took some photos, went round the large shop and then boarded the coach for a drive around Lake Rotorua to our next stop – the Skyline Restaurant – for lunch. To get there we had to board a cable car – the kind that never stop, just slow down! I was fine until two men got in behind me and the whole car wobbled! Sat down very quickly. At the top was a huge restaurant with panoramic view, initially obscured by mist but by the end of our extensive buffet meal, had cleared to reveal Lake Rotorua and hilly slopes covered in yet more tree ferns.
Our meal was accompanied by New Zealand wine and another Maori performance similar to the one I saw on the ship a few nights ago. I was somewhat taken aback by an Australian lady at my table who asked what the sparkling water was, and when I told her, expressed amazement that anyone would make water sparkling! She had never seen it before. I asked her where she was from and she said Brisbane. Her parents had emigrated with her and her sister in 1947 under the assisted passage scheme. After more photos, I caught the cable car back down – on my own this time! Then boarded the coach to our final stop – Te Puia Thermal Reserve – to see the bubbling mud pools and geysers. We were met off the coach by our Maori guide and taken (at a fast pace) to see the sulphur-encrusted boiling pools and geysers. It was magnificent.
After walking around the area, and through the kiwi enclosure, where, as they are nocturnal and the lights were dimmed to virtually darkness, I couldn’t see a thing, we were shown a Maori village and then given free time to – what else – shop! There some beautiful Maori weavings and carvings but it was all very expensive so I refrained.
We then had an hour and a half drive back to Aurora via Rotorua town - I had no idea there was a town there, with public parks with areas roped off due to hot springs etc. Every so often boiling water and rocks can erupt over buildings and then there is the constant smell of sulphur. I got back about 6.30pm and found Caryll already in the cabin. We were planning to go up and watch Dawn Princess leave when I saw a ship sailing past our window. Just as I said it’s too late, she has gone, we realised it wasn’t Dawn at all, but a P&O Australia ship – Pacific Pearl (soon to be CMV Columbus so it was even better to see her in her current livery).
She wasn’t scheduled to be at Tauranga, and since an ambulance arrived
on the dockside, we suspected a medical evacuation. I stayed up to watch Dawn
leave and then went to shower and change. Aurora left around 8pm.
 |
| Kiwi fruit farm |
Then he introduced the two different breeds of sheepdog they use – a silent pointer type and a noisy barking type. The latter is used when rounding up huge herds where they lose sight of the dogs but can hear where they are. He then used the dogs to herd some ducks, sheared a sheep and got some audience members to milk a cow and used the milk to feed some lambs.
All in all it was entertaining and educational. I took some photos, went round the large shop and then boarded the coach for a drive around Lake Rotorua to our next stop – the Skyline Restaurant – for lunch. To get there we had to board a cable car – the kind that never stop, just slow down! I was fine until two men got in behind me and the whole car wobbled! Sat down very quickly. At the top was a huge restaurant with panoramic view, initially obscured by mist but by the end of our extensive buffet meal, had cleared to reveal Lake Rotorua and hilly slopes covered in yet more tree ferns.
Our meal was accompanied by New Zealand wine and another Maori performance similar to the one I saw on the ship a few nights ago. I was somewhat taken aback by an Australian lady at my table who asked what the sparkling water was, and when I told her, expressed amazement that anyone would make water sparkling! She had never seen it before. I asked her where she was from and she said Brisbane. Her parents had emigrated with her and her sister in 1947 under the assisted passage scheme. After more photos, I caught the cable car back down – on my own this time! Then boarded the coach to our final stop – Te Puia Thermal Reserve – to see the bubbling mud pools and geysers. We were met off the coach by our Maori guide and taken (at a fast pace) to see the sulphur-encrusted boiling pools and geysers. It was magnificent.
After walking around the area, and through the kiwi enclosure, where, as they are nocturnal and the lights were dimmed to virtually darkness, I couldn’t see a thing, we were shown a Maori village and then given free time to – what else – shop! There some beautiful Maori weavings and carvings but it was all very expensive so I refrained.
We then had an hour and a half drive back to Aurora via Rotorua town - I had no idea there was a town there, with public parks with areas roped off due to hot springs etc. Every so often boiling water and rocks can erupt over buildings and then there is the constant smell of sulphur. I got back about 6.30pm and found Caryll already in the cabin. We were planning to go up and watch Dawn Princess leave when I saw a ship sailing past our window. Just as I said it’s too late, she has gone, we realised it wasn’t Dawn at all, but a P&O Australia ship – Pacific Pearl (soon to be CMV Columbus so it was even better to see her in her current livery).
Sunday 12 March - Auckland
Weather: Showers, good visibility, overcast
Temperature: 21C
Wind: Force 5-6
Temperature: 21C
Wind: Force 5-6
I have no idea why the cruise log says showers – we docked
in torrential rain at Queens Wharf. We had a leisurely breakfast being in no hurry
to get soaked, hoping it would ease – it didn’t, at least not for some hours.
Eventually we decided to brave it and walked through the terminal to a coffee
shop for wi-fi and a hot drink. Then across the main road where we found
several souvenir shops – I bought a hand-carved wooden kiwi – and a lovely
handicraft shop where I found a knitting kit to make a Fairy Penguin – the
species native to NZ. It was still raining, although not quite so hard so we
headed back to the waterfront and up towards the maritime museum.
We stopped at a nice restaurant overlooking the marina and had a beer and lunch. Then I decided to go into the maritime museum while Caryll headed off to do more shopping and exploring. The museum was very interesting with a large section on NZ America cup entries (and 1995 winner) as well as migrant history. The New Zealand Steam Shipping Co. was one taken over by P&O in the early twentieth century so it was of particular interest to me. After my visit I returned to Aurora. Auckland is a turnaround port so the terminal was busy and once on board, around 4pm, all the new arrivals were heading off to muster drill. I stripped off my sodden clothing, had a lovely long shower, changed and unpacked my purchases.
Monday 13 – Tuesday 14 March at sea
We stopped at a nice restaurant overlooking the marina and had a beer and lunch. Then I decided to go into the maritime museum while Caryll headed off to do more shopping and exploring. The museum was very interesting with a large section on NZ America cup entries (and 1995 winner) as well as migrant history. The New Zealand Steam Shipping Co. was one taken over by P&O in the early twentieth century so it was of particular interest to me. After my visit I returned to Aurora. Auckland is a turnaround port so the terminal was busy and once on board, around 4pm, all the new arrivals were heading off to muster drill. I stripped off my sodden clothing, had a lovely long shower, changed and unpacked my purchases.
Monday 13 – Tuesday 14 March at sea
Weather: Dry, good visibility, 3/8 cloud
Temperature: 24C – 27C
Wind: Force 4
Sea state: Slight
Temperature: 24C – 27C
Wind: Force 4
Sea state: Slight
We now have two sea days travelling north through the South
Pacific to Fiji. After the grey skies and rain in New Zealand we are back to
blue skies and warm sun – heaven. The ship is relaxing. Those that boarded in
Sydney are happy to finally see some sunshine. I spent most of these days out
on deck – the sea was a stunning deep blue/violet colour but I saw little
wildlife. I went to a talk by Commodore John King. On one of the evenings
some of our table met for drinks in The Glasshouse
which was fun. I particularly enjoyed their wine flights – three different
wines to sample.
Wednesday 15 March – Lautoka, Fiji
Weather: Dry, good visibility, 2/8 cloud
Temperature: 32C
Wind: Force 2
Temperature: 32C
Wind: Force 2
We arrived in Lautoka to a temperature of 29C, a few white
fluffy clouds decorating a blue sky and the islands looking picture-perfect –
green islets with coral strands and mangrove swamps growing out into the sea
looking like partially submerged trees, dotted around us. The tarmac is melting
on the dockside and housekeeping staff are busy covering up the ship’s carpets
to protect them. As our tour doesn’t leave until this afternoon I decided not
to go far this morning and just browse the stalls on the quayside where I
bought a dress. Then I returned to Aurora, had a sandwich and changed for the
tour as I was very hot and sticky. We left on the Fijian Traditions and Beauty
tour at 1pm, driving through the lush countryside.
Our first stop was at Nadi. Nadi Town was established in 1947 as a "Government Station" on the higher grounds of Nadi, and established itself as Fiji’s tourist hub in the 1960s. There was a group of musicians playing traditional instruments but this was mainly a ½ hour shopping stop and I bought a wooden carving of two dolphins. There are few if any professional guides in Fiji and ours, George, was very proud of his British ancestry. It gave us a more intimate slant on the country hearing about the way of life from an ‘ordinary’ local person. His description of a new house – four rooms being all a family required – certainly brought home to me our western materialism and greed for stuff. Most Fijians reject the possibility of higher salaries etc by emigrating, preferring the laid-back open-air lifestyle there. The majority work in agriculture, but service industries are increasing. Everyone was very friendly – as a school bus passed all the children leaned out to wave at us. The next stop was at the Garden of the Sleeping Giant. The ‘giant’ is a natural rock formation looking just like a huge person lying down and the garden was planted on the lower slopes by American actor Raymond Burr who lived there. The main flowers were orchids, of all sizes and species.
To get to the lilypond at the bottom required a walk down uneven wooden rickety steps so I stayed at the top taking photos, looking at the birds – including a honeyeater - and talking to the resident grey tabby cat. As people trickled back up we all headed off tothe verandah for fresh papaya fruit juice (and free wi-fi!). Then it was back to the coach to drive to the village of Viseisei. This is believed to be the oldest settlement in Fiji and the villagers descended from the earliest Melanesian explorers some 3500 years ago. The Queen and Prince Philip have visited here and we were going to get a similar welcome with a Kava ceremony. On the way we were briefed by George with dos and don’ts. Hats and sunglasses must not be worn; if we accepted the kava we must clap both before and after drinking. George also chose a temporary ‘chief’ to represent us all. As we arrived, two Fijian warriors in war paint and grass skirts led us past the local ladies selling their hand-made goods, to the big village green. Here we sat on chairs under a large canopy – a concession to western people of which I was thankful – I’d never have got up from the ground! The kava was ground up with coconut shells and mixed with water before being presented to our two chiefs (one from each coach). Then it was passed round to anyone who wanted to try it – of course I did. I had to clap once, say Bula which is Fijian for hello (the letter "b" is pronounced "mb”), drink it in one gulp and then clap three times.
After the official welcome there was traditional singing and dancing before one of the ladies showed us round the church and pointed out the chief’s house etc. Sadly we had to leave all too soon, but I did buy a lovely pearl bracelet from one of the stalls on my way to the coach. I was followed by children wanting to know my name and where I was from. It all may sound very touristy but it wasn’t and the people were all warm and friendly and it would have been good to spend longer there talking to them. We drove back past the sugar cane fields and cereal crops to the ship. After a shower and change I went to the pre-dinner Headliners show “This is Us” featuring just the singers, then went in to dinner.
Our first stop was at Nadi. Nadi Town was established in 1947 as a "Government Station" on the higher grounds of Nadi, and established itself as Fiji’s tourist hub in the 1960s. There was a group of musicians playing traditional instruments but this was mainly a ½ hour shopping stop and I bought a wooden carving of two dolphins. There are few if any professional guides in Fiji and ours, George, was very proud of his British ancestry. It gave us a more intimate slant on the country hearing about the way of life from an ‘ordinary’ local person. His description of a new house – four rooms being all a family required – certainly brought home to me our western materialism and greed for stuff. Most Fijians reject the possibility of higher salaries etc by emigrating, preferring the laid-back open-air lifestyle there. The majority work in agriculture, but service industries are increasing. Everyone was very friendly – as a school bus passed all the children leaned out to wave at us. The next stop was at the Garden of the Sleeping Giant. The ‘giant’ is a natural rock formation looking just like a huge person lying down and the garden was planted on the lower slopes by American actor Raymond Burr who lived there. The main flowers were orchids, of all sizes and species.
To get to the lilypond at the bottom required a walk down uneven wooden rickety steps so I stayed at the top taking photos, looking at the birds – including a honeyeater - and talking to the resident grey tabby cat. As people trickled back up we all headed off tothe verandah for fresh papaya fruit juice (and free wi-fi!). Then it was back to the coach to drive to the village of Viseisei. This is believed to be the oldest settlement in Fiji and the villagers descended from the earliest Melanesian explorers some 3500 years ago. The Queen and Prince Philip have visited here and we were going to get a similar welcome with a Kava ceremony. On the way we were briefed by George with dos and don’ts. Hats and sunglasses must not be worn; if we accepted the kava we must clap both before and after drinking. George also chose a temporary ‘chief’ to represent us all. As we arrived, two Fijian warriors in war paint and grass skirts led us past the local ladies selling their hand-made goods, to the big village green. Here we sat on chairs under a large canopy – a concession to western people of which I was thankful – I’d never have got up from the ground! The kava was ground up with coconut shells and mixed with water before being presented to our two chiefs (one from each coach). Then it was passed round to anyone who wanted to try it – of course I did. I had to clap once, say Bula which is Fijian for hello (the letter "b" is pronounced "mb”), drink it in one gulp and then clap three times.
After the official welcome there was traditional singing and dancing before one of the ladies showed us round the church and pointed out the chief’s house etc. Sadly we had to leave all too soon, but I did buy a lovely pearl bracelet from one of the stalls on my way to the coach. I was followed by children wanting to know my name and where I was from. It all may sound very touristy but it wasn’t and the people were all warm and friendly and it would have been good to spend longer there talking to them. We drove back past the sugar cane fields and cereal crops to the ship. After a shower and change I went to the pre-dinner Headliners show “This is Us” featuring just the singers, then went in to dinner.
Thursday 16 March at sea
Weather: Dry, good visibility, 4/8 cloud
Temperature: 30C
Wind: Light airs
Sea state: Smooth
Temperature: 30C
Wind: Light airs
Sea state: Smooth
A beautiful day with the sea like glass, broken occasionally
by silvery shoals of flying fish. At the moment we keep losing an hour on sea days and
to compound it we also lose another hour tonight as Samoa is on a different
time zone from the surrounding islands. Most of the day I spent outdoors but
about 4pm I reluctantly did a wash load as I was running out of underwear!
Friday 17 March – Apia, Samoa
Weather: Dry, passing showers, 5/8 cloud
Temperature: 34C
Wind: Force 2
Temperature: 34C
Wind: Force 2
The first of our two Friday 17th of March and we
arrived in Apia at 9am – our captain is extremely punctual! Once again a beautiful
green tropical island – possibly nicer than Fiji in that it is less developed
and more unspoiled. We set off on a 6½ hour tour, firstly along the coast road
to see Plum Pudding Rock, a rocky outcrop named for its shape. Along the way I
saw wild pigs on the beaches. This was followed by a slow drive through Le Mafa
Pass with breathtaking views of shorelines, waterfalls and lush rainforests.
The houses we passed caught my eye. The majority were traditionally built with a wooden floor and roof supported on wooden columns. The space was divided up by curtains, tied back in the day, so we could see people’s beds, couches etc. Cooking is done in a similar separate structure and washing and toilet facilities were separate buildings on the same plot. But what I found most unusual is that most homes had graves outside the front porch, complete with headstones and flowers. Our guide Aliu explained it is traditional to bury relatives in the front garden and given the importance of land ownership in Samoan culture I guess this is practical.
Our next stop was the Sopo’aga botanical garden and waterfall. Here we were shown how they open coconuts (on a spiked pole driven into the ground) and make coconut cream. Coconuts are called the fruit of life here, providing so much as the whole plant can be used – coir, leaves, husks and nut. Running round our feet were free range chickens with dozens of little chicks.
Next stop was Tafatafa beach with an hour so to swim, enjoy the beach and a barbeque lunch. One I had collected my food, I was surrounded by hungry cats and kittens and I'm afraid they got all my chicken! I just couldn’t resist those pleading eyes!
Soon it was time to head to our last sight – the Papapapaiuta Falls that drop hundreds of feet into an old volcanic crater. Our guide took great delight in telling us of a local young man who committed suicide here by driving his car off the edge! We then got an extra diversion to see Vailima, home of Robert Louis Stevenson before getting a tour of Apia and being dropped off on the quayside. I was in desperate need of a long cold drink so went on board while Caryll headed off having spotted some stalls.
The houses we passed caught my eye. The majority were traditionally built with a wooden floor and roof supported on wooden columns. The space was divided up by curtains, tied back in the day, so we could see people’s beds, couches etc. Cooking is done in a similar separate structure and washing and toilet facilities were separate buildings on the same plot. But what I found most unusual is that most homes had graves outside the front porch, complete with headstones and flowers. Our guide Aliu explained it is traditional to bury relatives in the front garden and given the importance of land ownership in Samoan culture I guess this is practical.
Our next stop was the Sopo’aga botanical garden and waterfall. Here we were shown how they open coconuts (on a spiked pole driven into the ground) and make coconut cream. Coconuts are called the fruit of life here, providing so much as the whole plant can be used – coir, leaves, husks and nut. Running round our feet were free range chickens with dozens of little chicks.
Next stop was Tafatafa beach with an hour so to swim, enjoy the beach and a barbeque lunch. One I had collected my food, I was surrounded by hungry cats and kittens and I'm afraid they got all my chicken! I just couldn’t resist those pleading eyes!
Soon it was time to head to our last sight – the Papapapaiuta Falls that drop hundreds of feet into an old volcanic crater. Our guide took great delight in telling us of a local young man who committed suicide here by driving his car off the edge! We then got an extra diversion to see Vailima, home of Robert Louis Stevenson before getting a tour of Apia and being dropped off on the quayside. I was in desperate need of a long cold drink so went on board while Caryll headed off having spotted some stalls.
Friday 17 March (2) Crossing the International Date Line
Weather: Dry, good visibility, 4/8 cloud
Temperature: 28 -30C
Wind: Force 2-3
Sea state: Slight
Temperature: 28 -30C
Wind: Force 2-3
Sea state: Slight
We now start five blissful sea days crossing the South
Pacific from Samoa to Honolulu. The Pacific is living up to its name – the
water is like glass, reflecting the blue skies and white puffy clouds. There is
an occasional heavy tropical shower but the bridge team were doing their best
to dodge around these. I know the captain said he would in his noon
announcements but most passengers didn’t really believe him. However, you could
clearly see in the zigzag wake that they were indeed trying. There was little
visible wildlife however, aside from a few Booby Birds fishing. These days
allowed me time to reflect on everything I have seen over the last few weeks. We
crossed the equator again with another ceremony to appease Neptune. This time,
as I was on Deck 8, I did indeed Kiss the Fish!
On one of the evenings we had our second Round the World cocktail party, after which it was dinner and then a Kenny Rogers tribute act. After that show Leon, the Entertainment Manager said that people had been asking him where they could see the Southern Cross at night so if we all met on Deck 13 forward at 11.30pm, he would point it out to us. I went back to the cabin to change into better footwear and leave my bag and then went up to Deck 13. We were led up to Deck 14 and once everyone was there, he radioed the Bridge to turn off the exterior lighting – no one was to move! - then used a laser pointer to show us the Southern Cross shining brightly – as well as other constellations and planets. It was a magical event with hundreds of stars visible as well as the Milky Way and even a shooting star. I know virtually nothing about astronomy so to have it all explained by an expert was wonderful.
On one of the evenings we had our second Round the World cocktail party, after which it was dinner and then a Kenny Rogers tribute act. After that show Leon, the Entertainment Manager said that people had been asking him where they could see the Southern Cross at night so if we all met on Deck 13 forward at 11.30pm, he would point it out to us. I went back to the cabin to change into better footwear and leave my bag and then went up to Deck 13. We were led up to Deck 14 and once everyone was there, he radioed the Bridge to turn off the exterior lighting – no one was to move! - then used a laser pointer to show us the Southern Cross shining brightly – as well as other constellations and planets. It was a magical event with hundreds of stars visible as well as the Milky Way and even a shooting star. I know virtually nothing about astronomy so to have it all explained by an expert was wonderful.
Wednesday 22 March - Honolulu
Weather: Dry, good visibility, 4/8 cloud
Temperature: 29C
Wind: Force 2-3
Temperature: 29C
Wind: Force 2-3
The day before we arrived in Honolulu we had to prove to the
US Coastguard that Aurora’s steering gear was working so at 5pm yesterday we
slowed right down and turned hard to port and then hard to starboard, before
speeding up again. Quite how the US thought we got this far without the
steering being OK, goodness only knows! Anyway, they allowed us in. We had booked the Ho-Ho Waikiki Trolley through the ship so officially
we were on a tour. We were called to go through US Immigration at 7.15am, and
were through very quickly. Then we had breakfast as we were not supposed to
disembark until 9am for the Trolley. Unlike most Hop on, Hop off buses these
were single deck trolley-style buses where you sat facing outwards. By 9.15 we
were through the terminal – a rather bleak shed with no facilities whatsoever
aside from toilets – no money changing, so shops, no Wi-Fi nothing. We got our
wristbands (much better than tickets or stickers!) and then had a half-hour
wait for the shuttle to take us to the main hub where we could choose our
route. We chose the green route first – out to Diamond Head crater and point.
The scenery was fabulous – lush green forested valleys, high volcanic peaks and
white-sand palm-lined beaches.
Back at the depot, we had 1½ hours before we could board the blue line trolley so we wandered across the road to some stalls selling Hawaiian Applique cushions etc and then to the ABC store for some sandwiches and a drink which we ate sitting in the queue in the underground car park that was the Trolley hub.
We were then allowed to board the double-decker green route bus. I was first on board and got great seats up top. This was a 2½ hour round trip with two 5min photo stops and took us to the Halona Blowhole and Halona Cove, used in the film From Here to Eternity.
Once again we drove past Waikiki Beach (so much smaller than you imagine) and the Film Studios where they were filming new episodes of Hawaii Five O, using a big green screen outside. Then along the coast past stunning bays on one side and mountains the other. The weather was absolutely perfect- hot sun and mainly clear skies but a cooling light breeze. At the first photo stop I even saw a pair of mongooses raiding a litter bin and other wildlife included a Red-crested Cardinal, Golden Plover, Spotted Dove and huge Monarch butterflies.
We just made it back to T Galleria in time to catch a red route trolley round Honolulu itself, setting off for our third time past Waikiki Beach and the Duke Kahanamoku Statue but then turning inland round the city. This bus included the cruise terminal on its route so I decided to get off there while Caryll stayed on as far as the Ala Moana Shopping Mall. We were not sailing until 8.30pm and by now it was about 6pm. I showered and changed and went to Carmen’s to watch the Hula Show.
We decided to eat dinner in the main dining room after all while some of the others went to the Horizon. That had been our original plan but we were glad we didn’t as there were very long queues it seems. After dinner we went to the Tropical Deck Party but it was very loud so decided to come back down for a bit before heading off to bed.
Back at the depot, we had 1½ hours before we could board the blue line trolley so we wandered across the road to some stalls selling Hawaiian Applique cushions etc and then to the ABC store for some sandwiches and a drink which we ate sitting in the queue in the underground car park that was the Trolley hub.
We were then allowed to board the double-decker green route bus. I was first on board and got great seats up top. This was a 2½ hour round trip with two 5min photo stops and took us to the Halona Blowhole and Halona Cove, used in the film From Here to Eternity.
Once again we drove past Waikiki Beach (so much smaller than you imagine) and the Film Studios where they were filming new episodes of Hawaii Five O, using a big green screen outside. Then along the coast past stunning bays on one side and mountains the other. The weather was absolutely perfect- hot sun and mainly clear skies but a cooling light breeze. At the first photo stop I even saw a pair of mongooses raiding a litter bin and other wildlife included a Red-crested Cardinal, Golden Plover, Spotted Dove and huge Monarch butterflies.
We just made it back to T Galleria in time to catch a red route trolley round Honolulu itself, setting off for our third time past Waikiki Beach and the Duke Kahanamoku Statue but then turning inland round the city. This bus included the cruise terminal on its route so I decided to get off there while Caryll stayed on as far as the Ala Moana Shopping Mall. We were not sailing until 8.30pm and by now it was about 6pm. I showered and changed and went to Carmen’s to watch the Hula Show.
We decided to eat dinner in the main dining room after all while some of the others went to the Horizon. That had been our original plan but we were glad we didn’t as there were very long queues it seems. After dinner we went to the Tropical Deck Party but it was very loud so decided to come back down for a bit before heading off to bed.
Thursday 23 – Sunday 26 March at sea
Weather: Dry, good visibility, sometimes overcast
Temperature: 16C - 26C
Wind: Force 2-4
Sea state: Slight
Temperature: 16C - 26C
Wind: Force 2-4
Sea state: Slight
We now have another four sea days before San Francisco. One
important task was to download photos from my Lumix camera as the 32Gb memory
card was full! My Nikon wasn’t so bad but I still needed to back everything up. I
bought tickets for the Macmillan Raffle – winning a bottle of Jack Daniels.
Wildlife included dolphins and Laysan Albatrosses. We are still losing hours
and it is throwing my body clock out big time. We have some very good speakers - John
Graves from the National Maritime Museum on cruising, Dr Daniel Durbin on US
politics and Karen Hardy on her life before and after Strictly Come Dancing. I
watched her yesterday and to be honest I found her overly dramatic and
emotional for my taste. The crew show was excellent with an hilarious
performance by CD Leon of I Want to be Free, Anneka from the Tours Office doing
poi dancing with illuminated balls and photographer Grace singing Angel from
Montgomery, a beautiful country song, and playing the ukulele. One of the days was a little dull and cool
so I went to watch the film Sully with Tom Hanks, which I found riveting. Leon
did another star gazing session but I didn’t bother to go again. The passenger
talent show was interesting I heard as some Australian/Scottish passenger took the opportunity of his “comedy” slot to slag off P&O,
the captain and the previous entertainment manager. One of the entertainment hosts dealt with him vey
slickly, getting the next act to get him off the stage. Idiot! On the final sea
day we all as a table went to the Glasshouse and had their tasting menu to mark
a birthday. This menu is where each course has a specific paired wine.
This a delicious meal and a lovely evening.
Monday 27 March - San Francisco
Weather: Dry, good visibility, 3/8 cloud
Temperature: 14C
Wind: Force 5-6
Temperature: 14C
Wind: Force 5-6
We set the alarm for 6am so as not to miss the sail in under
Golden Gate Bridge. By 7.15 the sun was just rising and it was a wonderful sight
– the bridge in front and then, as we neared the city, Alcatraz to our port and
the wharves on our starboard.
We could hear the sealions waking up at Pier 39 as we passed. Once Aurora was berthed at Pier 27, we had breakfast and got ourselves ready for the day.
We are here overnight and our plan was to buy a 48 hour ticket for the ho-ho bus as this included a night tour. Conveniently they were selling tickets outside the terminal and charging them to our shipboard account. Our guide was Blake and he was very entertaining and funny, shouting Ninja Tree to warn us about low branches.
We did the full 2½ hour tour, getting off at Pier 39 and having a browse among the shops there on our way to see the famous sealions.
They were mostly lazing about in the sunshine, although a couple were fighting. There was also a young seagull who had found himself a Ping-Pong ball and was playing with it – bouncing it and catching it in his beak – so funny. At Boudins, we had a coffee and I had a cinnamon bun. Then we walked over to the Ho-Ho office to sort out our night tour and what we were going to do until then. They said we should be in the queue by 5.30pm at the latest to get a good seat for the night bus. We then got on the red route bus again, getting off at California Street intending to get the California Street Cable Car. The trolleys are everything one expects in SF and we had been hearing the rattle and clang of their bells all day.
However, these are vintage vehicles with high vertical steps to board and I wasn’t convinced I’d make it so we abandoned that idea, missed the stop to pick up the Big Bus again and ended up walking the length of the Embarcadero from California Street to Pier 27. I nipped into the terminal to use the toilet and then caught the free shuttle bus to Pier 39, walking back across the road to join the queue for the night tour. The bus was there but we were not allowed to board until 6pm. Although I was wearing a sweatshirt jacket, I hadn’t reckoned on it being so cold now the sun was going down so I spent $10 on one of their fleece blankets they were selling – and I am so glad I did! It wasn’t totally dark but seeing the city and traffic lights down the steep SF roads was fascinating.
We travelled a different route and instead of crossing Golden Gate we drove over the Bay Bridge to Treasure Island where we had a 15min break. This is a double deck bridge; the lower deck outbound and the upper deck inbound to the city. I didn’t get off at the stop, but was considering going downstairs as I was so cold I was shaking. Just as I was dithering, someone asked if there was a Sharon upstairs and when I said yes, she said my friend had had a fall and was downstairs. I got myself down the steep stairs to find Caryll on the back seat with her leg covered in blood. Someone had tied Caryll’s scarf round it to stop the bleeding but it looked serious, amazingly the buses don't carry first aid kits! The bus drove back, dropping us off at the cruise terminal and we were met with a wheelchair. It was now 8.30pm so while Caryll was wheeled off to the medical centre, I dashed down to the cabin, dumped our purchases and bags and went into dinner as I was. It was our last night with our table companions and I had to explain why Caryll wouldn’t be there. After dinner I returned to the cabin but Caryll still wasn’t back so I went to reception to ask about her and was told she was just being discharged. We then went to bed after an eventful day.
We could hear the sealions waking up at Pier 39 as we passed. Once Aurora was berthed at Pier 27, we had breakfast and got ourselves ready for the day.
We are here overnight and our plan was to buy a 48 hour ticket for the ho-ho bus as this included a night tour. Conveniently they were selling tickets outside the terminal and charging them to our shipboard account. Our guide was Blake and he was very entertaining and funny, shouting Ninja Tree to warn us about low branches.
We did the full 2½ hour tour, getting off at Pier 39 and having a browse among the shops there on our way to see the famous sealions.
They were mostly lazing about in the sunshine, although a couple were fighting. There was also a young seagull who had found himself a Ping-Pong ball and was playing with it – bouncing it and catching it in his beak – so funny. At Boudins, we had a coffee and I had a cinnamon bun. Then we walked over to the Ho-Ho office to sort out our night tour and what we were going to do until then. They said we should be in the queue by 5.30pm at the latest to get a good seat for the night bus. We then got on the red route bus again, getting off at California Street intending to get the California Street Cable Car. The trolleys are everything one expects in SF and we had been hearing the rattle and clang of their bells all day.
However, these are vintage vehicles with high vertical steps to board and I wasn’t convinced I’d make it so we abandoned that idea, missed the stop to pick up the Big Bus again and ended up walking the length of the Embarcadero from California Street to Pier 27. I nipped into the terminal to use the toilet and then caught the free shuttle bus to Pier 39, walking back across the road to join the queue for the night tour. The bus was there but we were not allowed to board until 6pm. Although I was wearing a sweatshirt jacket, I hadn’t reckoned on it being so cold now the sun was going down so I spent $10 on one of their fleece blankets they were selling – and I am so glad I did! It wasn’t totally dark but seeing the city and traffic lights down the steep SF roads was fascinating.
We travelled a different route and instead of crossing Golden Gate we drove over the Bay Bridge to Treasure Island where we had a 15min break. This is a double deck bridge; the lower deck outbound and the upper deck inbound to the city. I didn’t get off at the stop, but was considering going downstairs as I was so cold I was shaking. Just as I was dithering, someone asked if there was a Sharon upstairs and when I said yes, she said my friend had had a fall and was downstairs. I got myself down the steep stairs to find Caryll on the back seat with her leg covered in blood. Someone had tied Caryll’s scarf round it to stop the bleeding but it looked serious, amazingly the buses don't carry first aid kits! The bus drove back, dropping us off at the cruise terminal and we were met with a wheelchair. It was now 8.30pm so while Caryll was wheeled off to the medical centre, I dashed down to the cabin, dumped our purchases and bags and went into dinner as I was. It was our last night with our table companions and I had to explain why Caryll wouldn’t be there. After dinner I returned to the cabin but Caryll still wasn’t back so I went to reception to ask about her and was told she was just being discharged. We then went to bed after an eventful day.
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