Queen Mary 2 to Xmas markets - day 4

Day 4 – Le Havre

We spent the night alongside and by morning the weather had improved and it turned into a lovely but cold day. We had to meet for our tour to Rouen  at 7.45 so we were up by 6.30 and had a light breakfast in Kings Court. It took just over an hour driving through the Normandy countryside to the pretty medieval town of Rouen. After a very short walk from the coach drop to the Joan of Arc church, we were left for two hours to explore on our own.

We set off around the church initially, past a small food and bric a brac market before heading up the Rue de Horologe towards the cathedral.

This has the tallest spire in France. Outside was a small Christmas Market with white-painted chalets and xmas trees decorated with white bows. The stalls were just opening so we entered the Cathedral. I was very surprised to find a tomb to Richard the Lionheart - although it transpired that only his heart is buried there.

 

 

On coming out we worked our way round the Xmas Market after some Caribou to drink (mulled wine fortified with brandy and sweetened with maple syrup, last tasted by me in Quebec!). W both bought some small cakes as gifts and I purchased a slice of a spiced orange cakebread. Then I started slowly working my way back while my friend set off for more exploration. I loved the old timbered buildings and little alleys off the main street. Reaching the small market with Christmas trees on sale I went into the Joan Of Arc church. It had not been open when we first arrived. This is a modern church with a sweeping tiled roof resembling an upturned boat. Inside there are ancient stained glass windows rescued from a bombed church but otherwise it is very simple and very moving. Rather incongruously there was a small fair outside with ferris wheel and stalls.

Our time was soon up and we boarded the coach for the drive back along the same road, past high cliffs on one side and the river on the other. Many buzzards were circling high overhead the cliffs and there were chateaux and castles periodically spaced. Past Harfleur, once on the coast but now inland due to silting of the river mouth, and we were back in Le Havre.

 

I had really enjoyed this short break and it was good to be back with Cunard again after a break of three years, although I did feel the standard of food had declined and was very disappointed by the choices on offer in the evening.  The ship looked lovely decked out in her Christmas Decorations. The highlight for me of that last evening was a carol concert in the atrium.  As we all sang well-known carols and Christmas songs, we got to White Christmas and ...it began to snow!...from a snow machine concealed high up in the Grand Lobby. Cheesy? - perhaps, but I loved it and we all clapped and cheered before it was time to head into dinner and prepare for our journey home. That night, the weather forecast proved correct and we had a bumpy crossing back to Southampton - the first time I could remember ever feeling any movement on QM2 - in fact something fell over in the cabin that night and woke us up, but for the main part of the cruise the weather had been perfect - so what more could we ask.

 

Queen Mary 2 to Xmas markets - day 3

Unusually for such a short cruise - today we have a sea day so first - a lovely lie-in – till 8.30am anyway, as my friend wanted to queue for planetarium tickets while I went on the internet with my free 4 hours.  I was happy to go with the flow today. I watched a demonstration of making chocolate Santas and was able to pass my card to the Executive Chef in hope of some information for our next book. 

At 11am it was the solo travellers meet in King’s Court. Initially it was just me, Jessica the social hostess, and the six dance hosts. They all seemed very nice and - miracle of miracles as I discovered that night - could dance English style ballroom and latin dances! Hooray! My friend and I met up there and went up late to the Cruise Critic meet – four were still there so we had a short chat. Then to lunch. In the afternoon I even managed a short nap on the balcony – well wrapped up. It's not often we have the luxury of a balcony so I was determined to make the most of it! At 3pm we both joined the long queue for the White Glove Afternoon Tea. I guess the queue was because we only really had the one opportunity to sample this. A string quartet played as we were served delicate sandwiches, cakes and lastly scones and jam!

Due to poor weather reports, we were arriving in Le Havre at 6pm, so after tea we went up to the observation deck to watch us berth. It was pouring with rain but fortunately this deck is right under the bridge and very sheltered. Le Havre looked lovely as dusk fell and the lights of the shops and Xmas markets shone through the rain. There was a floodlit big wheel as well.

 

 

By the time we had berthed it was time to go change for dinner. It was our only formal night and we wanted to get to dinner early so we could choose our seats by the window. After a cocktail in Sir Samuels we wandered down to the Britannia Restaurant.

Queen Mary 2 to Xmas markets - day 2

Zeebrugge

As my friend and I had both been here many times before, and I have visited Bruges, Ghent, Ypres and Blankenburg as well, we had opted for a tour to Brussels - my first time there. We met in the Theatre at 9.10 before boarding a coach for the hour and a half drive to the capital. I was surprised at the heavy frost coating the fields and polders beside the road.

 

We passed Bruges, spotting the bell tower on the left hand side of the road. As we arrived at the outskirts of the city we drove through a big park and past the royal palace to the Atomium. This is a remnant of the 1958 World’s Fair that was held in Brussels. It has since been cased with polished stainless steel and looked spectacular! 

 

We also passed three buildings that King Leopold II had bought for his garden – a Chinese house, Buddhist temple and Japanese Pagoda from a previous exposition, as well as a replica in miniature of the Crystal Palace. We drove through the modern financial district before disembarking the coach and setting off on a short guided walk. This took us firstly to the famous Mannekin Pis, and then through small Christmas Markets and colourful carousels to the main square.

This was surrounded with stunning architecture and a large nativity scene in a thatched stable. A short detour showed us the first covered shopping arcade in the world, now lined with expensive restaurants and designer boutiques. A little more walking, mostly past food stalls selling champagne and oysters, and we arrived at the main Christmas Market.

 

We were given three hours here to do as we wished. My first stop was for gluwein! Whilst we drank it we watched a man selling multi-finger puppets. He was demonstrating how to use them and was excellent indeed!

There was a beautiful stall selling Russian painted decorations, but the prices had clearly risen since I last bought similar items in Ghent in 2010! We walked the full length down and up again, pausing to watch the ice skaters on the central outdoor rink!

My friend wanted to retrace our steps to the centre so we parted and I bought a glass of Chimay beer, made at a Belgian Trappist monastery! For 4 euros and with a small pot of cheese cubes, I thought is good value and the best thing is that profits from such products go towards social causes.

 

The one problem with the market was the lack of anyway to sit down. My foot was beginning to complain about the granite cobbles and it was almost a relief when 3pm arrived and we had to meet the guide by the big wheel ready for our walk back to the coach pick up beside the docks.

It was a pleasant drive back, following the same route as the morning. At the security point on the ship, we all had to remove our coats, which was a pain, but we were soon back home in our cabin and ready for afternoon tea in Kings Court.

Queen Mary 2 to Xmas markets - day 1

We had booked this short four-night cruise to Zeebrugge and Le Havre as a pre-Christmas break on a Getaway Fare. Best of all the way the days fell meant I only needed to take half a day's leave. I left home about 7.45 and reached my friend well in time to make the 11.10 ferry over to Southampton and walk to the Ocean Terminal where Queen Mary 2 was waiting for us. The terminal was nicely decorated with Christmas trees as we dropped off our large cases and walked over to the terminal escalator.

 

At the top, the reception ladies directed us to the priority check-in. After the formalities we had a short break before boarding started at 12 noon. Stupidly I had forgotten about the ultra-sensitive security machines and had to take my boots off! After that we walked straight on board where our cabins were ready for us. Our stewardess Jeanette was waiting by the lift and walked us to our cabin. She was excellent and very attentive. We had an in-hull balcony cabin on Deck four – 4219. This was a nice quiet cabin despite being over G32! We had the usual complimentary toiletries of shower gel, soaps, shampoo and conditioner, cotton balls and buds.

Within about half an hour of entering the cabin our cases arrived so we did a cursory unpack before setting off to explore and photograph the ship. It was my third tine on board so most was familiar but it was good to refresh my memory.  The Christmas decorations looked lovely and there was a spectacular gingerbread village in the central walkway.

 

Muster drill was at 4pm – our station was the Queen’s Grill – after which we dumped our lifejackets and finished unpacking.

Despite a late booking, we had our requested dining allocation. We had been allocated table 524, second sitting, Britannia Restaurant. It turned out to be a table for six in the uppermost level, beside the window. Our companions were two ladies travelling without their husbands and another couple. We gelled quickly and dinner became an entertaining interlude. After dinner we headed for the Royal Court Theatre for the introductory show with the song and dance company and comedian Adrian Walsh. Unfortunately few laughed and it was clear he was struggling, although the first night is never good for any entertainer! After dinner we headed for bed as we had to be up early for our tour to Brussels the next day.  

Excursions - tours - trips. Help!

I am in the slightly weird position of having to book excursions for three cruises at once!  OK, I am not complaining as I do realise that I am very lucky to have three cruises booked, but what I don’t like so much is almost being forced to book (and pay for) expensive Norwegian excursions for next March!  I have no idea why they have been released so far ahead. It is not normal to book tours before paying the final balance and it was only by accident I found out at all that they were bookable – just as well as some were already waitlisted. The cruise is to see (we hope) the Northern Lights on Oriana. I know Norway is very expensive at the best of times but some of the tours were nearly £200! I just could not resist one however – 

Embark on a journey through enchanting snow-covered scenery to the Maze Sámi Camp. On arrival, you’ll be greeted by your Sámi host, dressed in the traditional colourful ‘kofta’ and welcomed into their cosy ‘Lavvu’. These traditional tents become their home whilst they migrate to different parts of the country with their reindeer. As you settle yourself on the comfortable reindeer skins, around the roaring camp fire, your Sámi host will serve refreshments of coffee and homemade cake. Whilst eating, you’ll hear the ‘joik’ (Sámi song) and learn about the Sámi culture and discover just how important the reindeer is in the lives of the Sámi people.

After your Sámi experience, you’ll have the opportunity to participate in a leisurely ride on a reindeer pulled sledge. It is a relaxing and novel way to see the surrounding scenery of the Sámi Camp.

I have long held a love for Sami songs, ever since I heard the one sung at the opening ceremony for the Winter Olympics in 1994 at Lillehammer. They have a haunting sound so suited to the landscape – not too dissimilar from Native American chants. Spine-tingling in fact!

Sami tent at Oslo Xmas Market, 2010

So – that was easy, as was Northern Lights Watching with a briefing from a local expert. The rest we will wait until we get on board to book I suspect.

As for the Caribbean – well we have booked two private tours and a few ship ones. The other islands we will play by ear. Since I don’t swim – all the swimming with turtles/stingrays/snorkelling etc ones are out so it doesn’t leave a great deal, which is a pity since there is still a lot of history on the islands. For example I am really looking forward to the train on St Kitts. Once used to move sugar from plantations, it is now a restored tourist ride.

Also - ahead of the cruise, I got my vaccinations updated today - thankfully I only need a typhoid booster, but worth keeping them all up to date I think.

Stunning Caribbean skies

And then, since the K-wire was removed from my toe a couple of weeks ago and I am back walking with some semblance of normality (for me!) I and my friend booked a last-minute deal on Queen Mary 2 to the Christmas Markets of Rouen (from Le Havre) and Brussels (Zeebrugge). I do so love the European Christmas Market cruises and, although it is only four nights, will be a great forerunner to Christmas!

Bruges, 2010

 

 

Back in the saddle!

Well, six weeks seemed forever but it is nearly over and I cannot believe how quickly it has gone now! The K-wire in my toe was taken out yesterday and to celebrate my ne freedom to walk, drive and generally get back to normal life - nearly - My friend and I have booked to go on Queen Mary 2 for a short trip to the Christmas markets.

My toe is still very sore and I am stuck in sandals for another week or two but hopefully by mid December I should be good as new. I love QM2. Despite her size she never seems big inside with lots of nooks and crannies to sit and people watch - not that we will much time for that.

It is four years since I was last on board her so about time I renewed my acquaintance. our ports are Zeebrugge (again) so I expect I will go to Brussels as I haven't been there before and have done previous excursions to Ghent, Ypres and Bruges. I hear the Xmas market in Brussels is excellent. I haven't decided whether to head for Honfleur again or Rouen from Le Havre.  A week or two to choose anyway.

Honfleur

It is quite difficult to get round packing - for cold in five weeks, and then about three weeks later - for hot, then very cold again in March when I board Oriana to northern Norway in search of the Northern Lights. 

So - back to work properly from next week and a cruise to look forward to very soon.

Ship spotting

I am now into my fourth week of enforced purdah due to the operation on my foot. Now I feeling better however, I have updating the catalogue of my ship photographs and continuing to scan my negatives. I was astonished to discover I have photographs (that is taken by myself) of 115 difference cruise ships. Out of the 284 or so listed in the current Berlitz Guide I guess I have quite a way to go to see them all!!

Many of those in my photos are no longer sailing anyway - Black Prince, Saga Fjord, Stefan Batory, Britannis - to name but a few, so that leaves even more to spot in my travels round the world.

Black Prince at Southampton after decommissioning, October 2009

Stefen Batory, Gdynia, 1977

During my upcoming cruise on Oceana to the Caribean, I expect we shall be in port with quite a few 'new' ships. According to the port schedules we will be in port with Pacific Princess, Celebrity Summit, Silver Spirit to name a few. I suppose it is little different to train spotting, but I love seeing cruise ships, comparing their differences, meeting their passengers and crew and watching them sail. I have no idea what it is about a great ship that can bring such variety of emotions. Perhaps Sir High Casson had it right when he said "Ships alone invite and receive an affection that is almost personal in its intensity." Bring it on!!

Carnival Victory arriving at St Maarten at dawn, 2011

 

Books arrive and a minor panic

Finally - my copies of our latest book arrived on Friday! It is strange, that after living with the text and images for close on a year, and despite seeing and reading the page proofs, it is never the same until you see the final, finished product. Once that arrives you feel you can definitely put everything relating to it aside and start afresh on a new project.  

After the nurse redressed my foot last Wednesday she gave me everything I needed to do it myself next time so, all prepared, I unwrapped it yesterday and was not sure it looked right. The toe was much more swollen and the stitches were pulling really tightly. I thought I had better phone NHS Direct and ask advice. They booked me in to see the out of hours doctor. Of course, being a Saturday, everyone I knew was out, so I booked a taxi and off I set. I was seen really quickly but he wasn't too sure about it either and thought I had better go to A&E! So, another taxi ride later, I arrived at Weston General. A&E was full of, what looked like, men with sports injuries!  An hour and a half later, I was seen by an orthopaedic junior doctor who felt it all looked absolutely fine and sent me home!!

I suppose it was an interesting outing - I hadn't planned to do anything else after all! And the foot got re-dressed properly by a nurse! And, although I am very aware now of the pin, it is more uncomfortable than painful most of the time. I just need to sit as much as possible with my foot up high! 

Just as well the autumn schedules have started on TV!!  

Foot yesterday in hospital!

Planning ahead

At least this enforced time off allows me to plan what excursions we would like to do in the Caribbean when my friend and I embark Oceana in January .... hopefully. Although some of the ports are repeats for me, around four are totally new like St Kitts and Guadeloupe.

Also, Andrew and I have been commissioned to write our next maritime book so I will be starting some research on that as soon as I am able to stay awake and think straight!

Meanwhile - my foot has been checked and re-dressed so I was able to have a peep at what had been done - don't look at the photo if squeamish!! Very nice neat job though!

The next three months

In several of my previous posts I have mentioned cutting short excursions due my foot hurting. the pain was being caused by a Morton's Neuroma and yesterday I had an operation to excise this and to straighten a toe that had contracted, I thought, because of it, but the surgeon didn't see the link.

So - I have been banned from travel for three whole months !!  Ok, not a long time I know, and since my next cruise should be in January, the timescale should work out just fine, barring any complications of course.

I thought therefore that in the meantime I may as well blog on my foot progress - although not in detail in case readers are squeamish.

I am one day post-op. There is a pin sticking out of the straightened toe which will stay in place for six weeks. This means I have to wear a surgical sandal for that period. The pain is less than I thought it might be which is great. We'll see if it remains that way when I have to get the dressings changed tomorrow though. At the moment all I can see is the tip of two toes under dressings and a crepe bandage!

Today was also the day P&O Cruises announced the name of the new ship to be launched in 2105. Britannia - not a well-known name linked with P&O, but it was first used by them in 1887 for the name of one of the four Jubilee ships, sister to Victoria, Arcadia and Oceana. Britannia (1) was 6,525 tons and carried 250 first class and 160 second class passengers on the Australian run - a far cry form the new ship which will be 141,000 tons and carry 4372 passengers! 

Britannia 1885-1909
 

Britannia 2015

 



Nautica - 27th August 2013 - Home

Around the middle of the cruise we had been asked to complete a disembarkation form with onward travel arrangements and asking what time we wished to disembark – any time between 7am and 9am. We chose 8.30 then, but as independents it turned out we could disembark whenever we wished. The whole operation was very civilised and easy. Those travelling on airport transfers were directed to specific lounges so there was no-one hanging around the gangway as on most ships. After a nice breakfast out on the stern deck (although Caryll managed to throw a whole cup of coffee over me!) we collected our hand luggage and just disembark. Our pre-booked taxi was waiting – we had berthed at City Terminal, while we left from Mayflower and I was home by 12.30.

 

Did I enjoy the ship? Absolutely, and will certainly be back on Oceania cruises, given the right itinerary, price and date!

Nautica - 26th August 2013 Portland

Our last day! Since we were not arriving until 10am at Portland we had a leisurely breakfast and were able to watch us dock, at least I did while Caryll went off to do putting.

Once we were ready we set off in the free shuttle to Weymouth. It is many years since I was last here and the town was, to all intents and purposes, new to me, but nevertheless, it was really odd visiting a place so close to home, whilst on a cruise!

 

We had a wander through the narrow streets and over the bridge to the main shopping centre, which is all pedestrianized now.

 

By around 1pm I was tired and my foot really hurt so I made my way back to the shuttle drop off while Caryll caught the bus to Portland Bill. I was also filled with the thought that I was wasting time ashore since I could visit Weymouth any time, and wanted to maximise my time on board Nautica! I had a quick lunch outdoors in the Terrace Grill before going up to play shuffleboard. As I was the only one to turn up I won by default – 3 more points. The weather was beautiful so it was a sun lounger in the sun for the rest of the afternoon – until Caryll got back and it was time for the Trivia Quiz. 

 

After dropping off our post cruise questionnaires we joined our team and came joint first – again.  So, I ended up with 20 Big O points – enough to redeem for a T shirt with 5 over as I didn’t want the hat! Back in the cabin I finished packing and changed for dinner.  We had a cocktail each in Martinis before going out onto the promenade deck to watch the Weymouth Brass Band and some soldiers fire a three gun salute for us.

 

We were just two for dinner again as we were late, then the final show. On our beds were gifts from Oceania’s loyalty club – two  smart leather luggage tags with enamel crests of Oceania Cruises.

 

Nautica - 25th August 2013 Cobh

I woke up early as this was the one day I was taking a tour. I was ready just in time to watch us sail past Cobh and over the river to Ringaskiddy where Nautica was to berth.  This was because Fred Olsen's Balmoral was supposed to be berthing in Cobh but in the event she arrived just as we left and we passed in the channel – Nautica blowing her whistle but no reply from Balmoral – which looked rather down at heel and a bit rust-streaked.

After breakfast I went to the Nautica Lounge for 8.45 and exchanged my tour ticket to Kinsale for a tour bus pass No.4. Tours on Nautica are rather like tendering operations in that respect. We were soon called and filed down to Deck 4 and out to the waiting coaches. It was not long before we were on our way with guide Mary and driver Pat.

We drove through rolling countryside not unlike Britain to Fort Charles overlooking Kinsale Harbour, and from where you could see the Old Head of Kinsale where Lusitania sank. 

Fort Charles and the Old Head of Kinsale

Then to Kinsale itself where we went into a hotel for scones and tea before having 2 free hours to explore. It is a pretty town of coloured houses and narrow lanes. I took lots of photos and wandered into a few shops.

 

It was Sunday but most were open as the town was hosting the International Disabled Sailors Championships. I did succumb to a beautiful scarf of red silk and felted wool. By then it was time slowly walk back to the hotel where the coach was waiting. As I sat by the harbour a seal popped its head up. We took a different route back, alongside the Bandon River where we had a brief stop for photos.

 

We got back to the ship at 1.30 and I dashed up to Waves for a veggie burger before shuffleboard. As I was waiting with Frances, our Entertainment Officer, Caryll arrived so we formed a team – and won! Three more Big O points. I popped back down to grab my camera as we left the port at 3pm.  Nautica was put through a hard swing to starboard to clear the pier and then it was back downriver past Cobh again.

 We sailed very close to the town and hoards of people lined the waterfront to watch and wave at us and a fair was in full swing in the small seafront park. In the distance by the lighthouse, Balmoral was just arriving and we passed very close to each other.

There was just time to return to the cabin with my camera and dash up to Horizons to sample the special Oceania Cup Cake tea. This was a buffet spread with tiny delicious sandwiches and a huge array of beautifully decorated cup cakes. In fact we nearly missed spotting it at all!

Today we only managed second place in Team Trivia.  Then to the cabin to change for dinner. I even managed to partially pack my holdall. It is strange being in port on our last day and there won’t be a lot of time for packing so it all helps.

It is the big finale tonight, entertainment wise so headed up for cocktails in Martinis first. The couple we shared the Invergordon tour with joined us and we had a nice chat for half an hour before they left for Toscana and we went into dinner. We had to wait a short time until a table was available. We were initially disappointed it was only for two but it was beside the window and we had a lovely view of the sunset. I chose caviar on potato, chicken consommé and lobster tail followed by pistachio tartlet topped with orange and grapefruit segments. We finished at 9pm and headed up to get seats in the Nautica Lounge to watch The Platters. It was a great (although a little long at 1½ hours) show with lots of audience participation. This was followed by the whole crew filing into the lounge so they could all be thanked – from Captain to cabin steward, and on the way out of the lounge they all lined the corridors.