I've been mulling over the erosion of long-held traditions on the launch of a new ship, particularly since Princess have chosen a man to be godparent of their new vessel, Discovery Princess and Arvia, like Iona, won't be named until months after her maiden voyage. I suppose the changes are all calculated to garner more publicity but it makes me sad that centuries of nautical superstitions are being thrown away. Interesting that one ship who sailed on her maiden voyage before being named was Titanic. As with Iona before her, I was originally booked on the maiden voyage of Arvia on 9th December 2022. However, this was cancelled with barely a month to go, as the ship wasn't finished in time. The new 'Maiden Voyage' is now on 23 December 2022, but last week P&O Cruises announced a naming ceremony would be in March in the Caribbean, so again, the ship will sail before her official naming. I suppose it is because these new modern leviathans are regarded by their operators as floating resorts or hotels rather than ships, that maritime traditions fall by the wayside. Sometimes I think they are actually designed with as few views of the ocean as possible to reinforce the belief you haven't left the safety of land. Cruises are now marketed as 'cruise holidays', executive pursers are hotel managers, purser's desks are reception... Ok, perhaps I am showing my age but I choose to cruise precisely because it is different from a resort holiday and blurring these lines actively discourages me from choosing those companies that don't see this. I know they are chasing new markets, with 7-day ferry-like itineraries but perhaps the new-to-cruising demographic the companies want might actually like to be at sea; to revel in being out of sight of land; to do something different from a week in Marbella or Ibiza. The other factor companies might like to note is that, given the rising cost of living, the older, more traditional cruisers (not tied to limited work leave or paying mortgages) they are putting off with these new marketing strategies, might actually be their saviours in the months to come. Below: P&O Cruises Iona in SOuthampton.

Kemi, Finland

In AUgust I spent three weeks travelling around the BAltic and up the Gulf of Bothnia on Saga's Spirit of Discovery. Kemi, right at the top of the Gulf of Bothnia, close to the border with Norway nd not far from Russia, was a new port for me and not on the useual cruising itineraries. By no means a tourist town but still interesting with an odd mix of traditional wooden homes and modern Brutalist architecture. Best remembered by me for a fabulous charity shop - think Finnish glass birds for £20. Just couldn't carry them.

Normal service is resumed

 It's been a while since the Spirit of Adventure maiden cruise but finally, this year, things feel more normal, starting with a bargain cruise to the CAnaries for some early sun. 

This cruise was  a new one launched by P&O, once the date of Aurora's return to service was set. The price was too good to pass up as Aurora is my favourite P&O ship - long may she sail.

And so, on the 1st April 2022 I was waiting, luggage at the ready for my taxi to Southampton. My driver turned up at 9am and we had a very fast and straightforward run to the Mayflower Terminal, Southampton, arriving before my Southampton-based friend, at 11.30. As per the current Covid Regulations, my luggage was taken up to the hole in the wall while I set off for a lateral flow test and for my documents to be checked – vaccination certificate, insurance, boarding pass and health clearance. Then I went back to the waiting area to wait for a text with my results. Once I was cleared to embark there was another short wait for security to open and then I was taken on board. The new procedure is to go straight to your muster station and have your card scanned so they know you know where it is, then to collect a cruise card from your cabin. To go to the Loyalty Lunch, I was also supposed to collect my invitation from the cabin. It soon became clear, I was the first to board and on the ship, no-one was ready! After waiting at Masquerade for ages, I was taken to my cabin to leave my hand luggage and collect my cruise card etc. Finally, my card was scanned and I could go to the Alexandria Restaurant. It was back to being a buffet meal, with very free-flowing alcohol. My friend joined me and we stayed there until cabins were opened at 3pm. Luggage took a long time to arrive so we watched the safety video and then went on deck for sailaway. We stayed out on deck until the ship reached Fawley, exchanging a salute with Ventura which was in Ocean Terminal. Then back to the cabin to unpack and change. Our dining allocation was for club dining on table 259 for 8. In the event, two ladies turned up, saw the table size and asked to move, leaving us with a lovely couple. We had great conversations and fun for the duration of the cruise. No-one else arrived. Our waiters were Xavier and Clinton. Sadly, there are no wine waiters any more – a permanent change. Bed after dinner as long day.

 

Saturday 2^nd April at sea

The first of three straight sea days. It was a grey morning so I was in no rush to get up. Familiarised myself with Aurora again and while my friend went off to play quoits, I sat out on deck for a while, broken by lunch in the Medina Restaurant. In the evening we had booked to go to the 6.45pm Headliners show On the Horizon. One positive aspect of reducing numbers in the theatre, is having 3 shows a night. This means you can go to the early show, have a drink, dinner and then maybe a different show at 10.30pm or the syndicate quiz.

Sunday 3^rd April at sea

After breakfast in the Horizon buffet, we both attended the church service led by Captain Simon Love. It was the first of three Gala or Celebration Nights tonight, although no cocktail party due to Covid. Instead, we were given vouchers for a glass of champagne, red or white wine, beer or a soft drink. This we drank in the Crows Next where the captain came round and chatted to everyone.

Monday 4^th April at sea

Another relaxed morning. Today we had the first solos get-together, as it had been forgotten on previous days! A request to Entertainment Manager Paul Burton sorted it. A surprising number of men turned up! I sat out on deck in the, now much warmer, weather before going in to change for our Baltic & Ligurian lunch at noon. No officers are allowed to attend at present but, despite misgivings, our table of 1 couple and the remainder single ladies turned out very entertaining, although the couple left immediately as they wanted to sit with friends. That evening we watched the new Headliners show New Romantics at 6.45 and Rhinestone Country at 10.30 after dinner (we didn’t stay as I felt Pulse were not suited to this kind of music). A word about dinner – the always available options have gone. Steak and salmon are always on every dinner menu but very little chicken and no melon starter. Instead, there are three plant-based options – two veggie, and one vegan, two meat and two fish.

Tuesday 5^th April La Palma

Had breakfast in the buffet, gathered by my helper, Herculan. Somehow, he always seemed to spot me before I saw him, and waved before getting me a tray and my usual breakfast. While my friend was off on a tour, I had opted to wander ashore on my own. I had been here twice before and it is a pretty town and easily walkable. However, this was the first time I was going to be on my own in a foreign town since my heart surgery and I was surprised at how subconsciously nervous I was. I was helped down the gangway and directed to the shuttle buses to the port gates. It was a lovely sunny day, although very windy. I crossed the road and picked up a map from the tourist office. On this cruise there was no port speaker or any port guides available. I just wandered up the main street, talking time to sit in the big square in front of the Matriz de El Salvador church and enjoy some people-watching and soaking up the warmth. 

After a couple of hours, I returned to the port via the Avenida Maritima. I intended walking to the ship but as a shuttle was there waiting, I took the easy option. Back on board I had a light lunch in the buffet and sat in the sun. We both stayed out on deck at sailaway until we had passed the lighthouse on the end of the mole and Santa Cruz was a small dot in the distance, then went in to change for dinner. We watched vocalist Jenny Williams in theatre before eating, then I went to bed as tired.

Wednesday 6^th April Tenerife

I had booked a tour here so we had cabin breakfast delivered (free as the delivery charge was suspended due, I suppose, to Covid). As we were eating, I spotted Europa 2 arrive and sail past us to berth. In front of her was Sea Cloud Spirit and the other side of the harbour, AIDANova. 

Then I went down to the dockside to find my tour bus. Tenerife is shaped a little like a duck and we were going to explore the beak! Our first stop was at La Isla Beach, where the coach stopped right next to beach front cemetery – a nice final resting place. Then we started to climb up precipitous narrow winding roads to the top of the mountains, before slowly going back down to Taganana. There was a brief photo stop at a beautiful beach with crashing surf before going back up to a winery for wine tasting and nibbles of bread, olives and local soft cheese.

Then it was back along more mountain roads, through the forest with native house leeks, creamy lichens and other unique plant life down to Santa Cruz. There is a deep valley running all along the ‘beak’ and the hair-pin bends to negotiate this terrain were sharp and scary. The real hazard, we were told, were the amount of rentacars, driven by tourists with no experience of this type of road and who froze on meeting a coach. Back on board, it was lunch and another sit in the sun with a beer. We were the first of the four cruise ships to leave and I took photos as they faded into the distance. The Headliners show, Destination Dance was postponed – probably due to a performer or two catching Covid, so it was a cocktail, dinner and bed.

Thursday 7^th April Gran Canaria

The third port in a row and I had swapped my original tour as I felt 7 hours was too long for me. This one went to the same places but in a more leisurely fashion. So, after another cabin breakfast, I walked onto the dockside to board a coach to Maspalomas sand dunes. These are on the opposite side of the island to the port at Las Palmas and are a 5 square kilometre site of huge natural dunes, formed by a tsunami in 1755. 

Next, we drove through this arid landscape to the pretty seaside resort of Puerto de Mogán. The coach had to park opposite the bus station so it was a fair walk down towards the marina and seafront. Then across a small bridge and to the famous area of narrow streets and over-arching bougainvillea, hibiscus and other colourful flowers. We had just over an hour free time to explore. The river that apparently gave this place the nickname Venice of the Canary Islands was completely dry but the flowers were beautiful and I enjoyed a stroll in warm sun – 22 degrees of warm sun in fact. On the beach, two men were building a sand sculpture of a house and garden with sand trees etc. Back on the coach it was a different drive back to the port, past the old town with its cathedral of black volcanic stone and white render. 

Changed for dinner and watched the Headliners show Applause at 6.45, before a cocktail and dinner. So far, I have been very impressed with the new Headliners shows. The only one on this cruise I have seen before is Destination Dance (delayed until final day).

 

Friday 8^th April Lanzarote

This was my first visit to Lanzarote so, of course, the obvious tour was the Fire Mountains – Montañas del Fuego. So, after another cabin breakfast, I set off from Arricife across the island to the Parc Nacional de Timanfaya. We stopped first at the visitor centre to watch a demonstration of brushwood being lowered into a hole and set alight, followed by water being thrown into a metal tube set into the ground and a geyser of steam whooshing upwards. 

We then re-boarded the coach for a drive through the landscape. I have never seen anywhere like this before. It was a vast lava field but unlike Iceland, whose lava fields are covered with green mosses, this are was bleak and grey. The largely level areas were interspersed with old volcanic cones and tunnels could be seen where the thin laval crust had broken over a bubble of air. The single-track road wound through the fields, sometimes offering a view to the horizon, at others the coach was surrounded by six-foot-high walls with stalactites of lava hanging from, what once was, the ceiling of a tunnel. 

This road is the only access to the Parc, and you have to board a bus to see it. No-one is allowed into the parc alone due to the danger to both person and lava of cracking a thin crust and falling into a tunnel. I could have spent a day there just absorbing the sights but eventually we arrived back at the visitor centre and drove out of the parc. By now, there were  long lines of visitor cars waiting to park and take a tour. Our next stop was at an aloe vera farm where we had a demonstration of how to prepare and use the amazing plant for medicinal and cosmetic purposes. Finally, we went to a winery for a taste of local dry or sweet wine. Volcanic soils are rich in nutrients for vines etc and as we drove, we could see the unique method of planting here with one vine, surrounded by a semi-circular wall of rocks to protect it from the wind. 

At the winery I wandered into the craft shop next door, which happened to have a jewellery section and bought a pretty silver ring of green peridot and black polished lava. We drove back to the ship past the home of the famous artist Cesar Manrique. Back on the ship, I had my usual lunch of cheese and biscuits while sitting outside in the sun, before taking some photos of AIDANova who had beaten us into port that morning. That evening we went to the early performance of the Headliners show Applause.

 

Saturday 9^th April at sea

Finally, a relaxing sea day as we sail north now to Lisbon. After breakfast in the Horizon, I went to the solo’s meeting, then pottered most of the day, sitting out on promenade deck while it was still warm enough. At 5.15 I had booked the hairdresser as a treat and it was our second formal night. Then to cabin to change before watching vocalist, Stephen Bayliss at 7.30 in Carmens. After dinner we watched The Four Ds in the theatre at 10.30 but they mostly sang fifties music so not my thing.

 

Sunday 10^th April Lisbon

As this was my ninth time in Lisbon, I had decided not to bother to go into the city. Caryll went off in the shuttle bus and I wandered around the new cruise terminal. I wanted a couple of gifts for people back home so bought some chocolate and a Xmas bauble, before the long trek back along the airbridge. On the way I took photos of Ponant Cruises' Le Bougainville, which was berthed ahead of us, and Sea Cloud, at anchor in the Tagus River. I started to pack a little in the afternoon as we heard reports it cold be rough on the way home.

 Monday 11^th April at sea

The first of our two sea days homeward bound. No one at solo’s so wandered round the shops a little. Despite warnings about potential rough seas, it is still pretty calm. Out on our port side is Spirit of Adventure, also homeward bound from the Canaries. I took some photos as she is our next cruise ship! Did the Individual quiz at 5.30 but didn’t do very well.

Tuesday 12^th April at sea

Packing day but still managed to sit out on deck as the seas are calm and the sun warm still. We just arrived at Champions for the quiz when there was an announcement for All Hands to Flying Stations. This was preparatory for a helicopter medivac and since the whole aft end of the ship had to be evacuated for safety, we headed up to the Crows Nest to watch for the helicopter. Aurora had already altered course to head towards Plymouth and the coastguard aircraft arrived about 6pm. Apparently the crew were complimented for their efficiency and the patient was soon off to hospital, and hopefully recovery. After changing for dinner, we had drinks in Crows Nest and then went to eat.

 

Wednesday 13^th April Southampton

Waited in the card room for assisted disembarkation. Driving via the M3, M4 and M5, I was home by 11.30am.

 

In conclusion – cruising post Covid

Pros: I really like 3 shows a night as you can see 2 every evening, or go to the syndicate quiz, even if on second sitting.

Cons: Why is there muzack everywhere on deck now, even on prom. Deck!, No voyage log, no evening turndown, no port guides or presenter. Solos meet unhosted, deck games unhosted. Mainly, though I am not keen on the new dinner menus. The ‘always available’ options have gone. Now there are two fish dishes, salmon, steak and three veggie meals – two vegetarian and one vegan. I eat largely vegetarian at home but I missed chicken, which we only had one night. Sommeliers have also gone now and the wine list is smaller.

However, I really enjoyed the cruise. The crew were lovely and so pleased to be back at work. The weather was perfect – warm, sunny and the seas mostly flat calm. Perfect.

 

Back to sea - finally!

It's been a long, long lockdown but finally - the time is here - I can cruise again!! Like so many other peole, after so many cancellations, changes of date and changes of itinerary, I am setting off on Saga's Spirit of Adventure maiden cruise around the UK.

Spirit of Adventure at Holyhead

Tilbury

Monday 26^th July Tilbury

Well, after 5 or more changes of itinerary, date etc etc, the day is finally here. First hurdle today is will my driver turn up? Somehow in all the changes my transport fell off the system, which I only discovered last Thursday. However, the car arrived on the dot of 9am. A sleek new silver Mercedes. Georj introduced himself, gave me a bottle of water and loaded all my luggage and we set off. Midway we had a comfort stop and he bought me a coffee. We arrived four or so hours later due to traffic issues - accidents on M4 and M25. Once at Tilbury we joined the queue for the COVID test. Once that was clear, there was an oxygen check and I was cleared to board. At the entrance to the terminal, we had to wash our hands and new masks were provided. I walked over to the assisted embarkation desk where I was met by a lady with an iPad who checked my particulars, passport and CV19 vaccination card and then asked to wait for a wheelchair – about 5 mins, by which time Caryll had joined me. We had set off at 9am and 11.30am respectively, yet were in the queue for CV19 testing a few cars apart. Once on board a steward met us at the top of the gangway and took our hand luggage and escorted us to the cabin. We had a deluxe twin cabin which is much the same as a standard twin but with a larger balcony and a walk-in wardrobe. Amenities include a shoehorn, clothes brush, blanket for the balcony, kettle for teas and coffees, large screen TV, bath robe and slippers. There was a bottle of Balfour Champagne chilling with glasses and a plate of fruit, plates and cutlery along with a large bottle of hand sanitiser. We each had a zipped pouch containing masks, sanitiser and disposable gloves. It was so exciting to be back on board a ship. The muster drill was at 5.30 pm. It was a little different in that all passengers were told to return to their cabins prior and watch a video on the TV. Then the general emergency alarm was sounded and everyone had to proceed to the muster station and check in and then leave. In theory this meant a one-way system but there was a lot of congestion on the stairways. As I am registered with a disability, I had to wait in my cabin for a steward who then escorted me where I needed to go and also took me on deck to my lifeboat. After muster it was on to Deck 13 for sailaway. There was a marching band and confetti on the quayside and Captain Tanner was liberal in his use of the horn as we turned 180° and sailed down the Thames. For dinner everyone had been allocated a specific restaurant and time for the first night and onwards it was freedom dining unless you had requested a fixed table for the whole cruise. I had the Supper Club where we were seated on a table of 4. 6 is the maximum number for the time being. The food was delicious with a lobster and shrimp starter, vegetarian main course and cheese and biscuits to finish. The entertainment changed for each course, with singers, duos and a pianist. After dinner my friend went to the show and I retreated to the cabin and watched it on my cabin TV while finishing the unpacking. I have rarely had so much space in a cabin and we had empty drawers to spare. This is because Saga gave us a complimentary upgrade.

 

Tuesday 27^th July at sea

We were sailing on a beautiful millpond otherwise called the North Sea heading north to Newcastle. Today has been fairly relaxed. I woke early and went onto the balcony to watch the sunrise. It was really warm but a bit misty. We had breakfast in the grill. This is a buffet but the food is still being served to everyone. The decor is really bright and cheerful with primary colours. There were various talks on today including two port talks, a motivational speaker, and the ORCA team, where I learnt about any wildlife we might encounter. We did various housekeeping tasks such as registering our credit cards, adjusting our tours etcetera. Lunch was on deck in the Lido - a delicious fish & chips (small portion) - lovely light crispy beer batter, washed down with a cider.  Then to the MDR for the Solos tea. Tables were restricted to 4 or 6 people again and tea was served on pretty cake stands. Unlike Discovery last year there was no champagne but it was a very social occasion. That left time for a short rest before dressing for our first formal night. After the tea we really weren’t very hungry so ate quite late. Again, the food was delicious with another lobster/crab/shrimp starter followed by some roast chicken and ice cream. Then I went to the show by Kerry Ellis. I have to say it was the best solo artist singer with small orchestra I can remember listening to on a cruise ship. 

 

Wednesday 28^th July Newcastle

We arrived at 8 am in Newcastle. I was up early enough to watch the sail up the River Tyne. It was a bit grey and misty as we passed the Tynemouth Priory and castle but by the time our tour left the Sun was shining. It was my first time in Newcastle and rather ambitiously I had booked two tours. The first was to Northumberland castles and coast including Alnwick. We had a few stops such as Saint Mary‘s Lighthouse and Alnwick Castle but largely it was a panoramic tour through Tynemouth, Cullercoats, Whitley Bay, Seaton Sluice, Blyth etc. Every tour was regarded as a bubble. We had to gel our hands on boarding and every time we got back on the coach. Masks were worn throughout but we still got given the Werther’s butterscotch sweets as normal. We had very little time between tours so I got a drink in the Living Room along with a small open sandwich before going to the gangway again for our Newcastle city tour. This was a complimentary tour. I hadn’t realised the ships berth quite a long way from the city. It was very interesting, a sort of mixture of Liverpool and Porto. The weather was now lovely and sunny as we had about half an hour free time by the Millennium Bridge to wander and take photographs. It was amazing seeing the kittiwakes nesting under the old bridge. The tour was comprehensive and quite long and at the end we had some time in hand so the driver took us round Tynemouth (again). Back on board for sail away at 5.00 pm we got a quick drink and went on deck as there was a fire tug standing by. Captain Tanner took Adventure a little further upriver to swing her before heading back out to sea. The fire tug led us out and there was much blowing of horns and waving and shouting from the shore. As Adventure reached the sea, the tug went off to one side and danced in spirals as we left. We changed for dinner and had drinks in the Living Room before going in to the main dining room for a delicious dinner of scallops, salad, Dover sole, apple pie and ice cream, and coffee with truffles. I am very tired so have come back to the cabin to prepare my bag for tomorrow and watch TV. It is a sea day as we round Scotland and there should be plenty of wildlife to watch.

Millennium Bridge

 

Thursday 29^th July at sea

Sea day today as we sail non-stop from Newcastle round Scotland to Belfast. Sadly, the weather has taken a turn for the worse and it’s grey, damp, chilly and misty. I went up to Deck 14 to join the ORCA team but there was no one there and I nearly got blown off my feet so I’m back in the cabin briefly to dump my coat and then go to the coffee chat at 11.00 am. A lot of people are complaining about having to do tours to go ashore but they should have known that before they boarded. Most people are understanding and accept the conditions just to be on a cruise again. Although it isn’t a normal cruise as per pre-Covid, Saga are doing their best to make it as normal as possible. We still have to wear masks inside the ship and line dancing is the only dancing class available, most things are now happening such as craft classes, quizzes, sports and so on. Regarding the cabin we have washing lines in the showers (missing from Discovery) and the only thing I notice missing are binoculars, which is another Covid thing. Despite the weather, it was worth being on our sheltered balcony, to see the many dolphins, seals, birds and five Minke whales that we passed on the way. Unfortunately, we were just having lunch when the captain announced that the Coast Guard would be coming to medevac a patient who was not very well. We had heard the Code Alpha being called to the playhouse earlier. It was feared the man had had a stroke but we later heard (via his wife and Facebook) that it had been a first seizure. On the plus side however, it seems Adventure set a new world record of 12 minutes from the Coast Guard arriving to the Coast Guard leaving with the patient to Inverness hospital. I had a manicure at 6.00 pm and then went straight to the Living Room for a drink and into dinner in the main dining room. Another delicious meal with Cornish crab starter, roast venison, and a delicate apple tart to finish.

 

Friday 30^th July Belfast

We arrived at 9 am this morning in Belfast. Because of the delays caused by the medevac Adventure was an hour late but we are staying an extra hour and a half so no tours have been affected. As I have been to Belfast three or four times before I am staying on board today while Caryll has gone off sightseeing. I am slowly working my way through the breakfast menu in the buffet. The choice is quite large from yoghurt and cereal, croissants and Danish pastries, and fresh and tinned fruit to American-style blueberry pancakes and waffles all made fresh to order. There is also smoked salmon and other delicacies. The tours set off for city centre bus tours, the Giants Causeway, and the coast of County Antrim. It was nice having a virtually empty ship to explore and take photographs. There was much activity in the port with various ferries coming and going all day. I had lunch in the grill choosing a Ploughman‘s salad. In the afternoon I sat with the ORCA team and chatted whilst they identified the photographs which I had taken the previous day - common dolphins and a seal. We had dinner in the main restaurant and then went to the show which was the classical cross-over duo, Indigo May. 

 

Saturday 31^st July Isle of Man

Today is Saturday and around 8:30 am we reached the Isle of Man. We are circling it all morning and then anchoring off Laxey for the afternoon before sailing past Douglas and onto Liverpool for tomorrow. Most of the morning I sat on the balcony watching the scenery when the Sun eventually came out it was very very hot but has clouded over again now. I have a nice view of Laxey village from the balcony at the moment. At noon we had a solos lunch. Unlike normal such solo lunches we had to stay in the same seat and couldn’t rotate round and talk to other people but it was still an enjoyable event. All the tables were for six people and we had set places. After a good meal of shrimp, a vegetarian frittata, and an orange drizzle pudding plus wine of course, I need a lie down to recover! In the evening we decided to have our dinner in the grill so as to get out early and sit on our balcony for the final sail past the Isle of Man. It was cold but lovely to watch the Sun setting over Castletown. I am not a fan of buffets preferring to have my meals served to me but the atmosphere is nice and the furnishings quite elegant. Tonight‘s wine was a Californian Zinfandel. All drinks are included unless you want premium spirits and beers. Once we had left land my friend went to the show and I went to have a drink in the living room before coming to the cabin to write this. We arrive in Liverpool tomorrow early and I am on a tour to Chester and Port Sunlight as I have been to Liverpool a few times previously. The mid-cruise questionnaire was in our cabins tonight but I really don’t have many comments. Obviously Covid has had its impact but I have very few complaints. I am especially impressed by the shower ventilation so that when you open the door from the shower there is no steam in the bathroom whatsoever. The basins are quite deep and the taps quite high so it is easy to wash your hair there instead of the shower if you wish.

 

Sunday 1^st August Liverpool

The Chester and Port Sunlight was a very good tour which gave us about an hour of walking around Chester with our guide as well as a tour around the outside of the old city. We then drove through to Port Sunlight where we had another 10 minutes or so free time for photos. I love Port Sunlight with its arts and crafts architecture and plenty of green spaces. We then travelled back to Liverpool via the Mersey tunnel. We got back to the ship in time for a light lunch on the Verandah outside. The beer-battered cod and chips is delicious washed down with a Kentish cider. Spent the afternoon on the balcony in the sun and watching the Mersey Ferry. We had an early-ish dinner in the main dining room with the chaplain and his wife before going to the theatre for the production show. It was a good troupe but I’m not a fan of 1930s music much.

 

Monday 2^nd August Holyhead

Today we are in Holyhead, Anglesey. It is another lovely day with plenty of sun. It is a tender port and this was the ship’s first time tendering passengers. There are steep stairs down to the tender platform although I believe there is a chairlift for those that need it. The tenders are very spacious and easy to enter with smart wooden rails and handles. The problem for me was at the other end with a very steep gangway from where the tender landed to the coaches. It was not a good tour. We knew it was a panoramic scenic tour but the driver drove so fast we were past monuments etcetera before the guided mentioned them. We had half an hour to explore Beaumaris on our own which was good. We then drove past the bridges to the small town with the longest name in Britain – Llanfair…... We had another half hour stop there, ostensibly a comfort stop but with the aim it seems for us to go shopping which we don’t think the shipping line want us to do. We then drove back to the small harbour to reboard the tender. There was a very, very long queue for the tender but some seats had been set out under an awning for those who couldn’t stand long. By now the tide had gone out and the steep gangway of the morning was even steeper going down. It was about half an hour ride or less back to the ship, up the stairs again and on board. As so often happens on ships, the lifts are close to the tender pontoons so there is always congestion when you are waiting for one. At least on this cruise we do not have to go through security, presumably as we are so tightly controlled ashore. It was by now past 2 o’clock so we went to the Veranda again for lunch and again the delicious beer-battered cod and chips were too good to resist. 

 

Tuesday 3rd August at sea

The weather could hardly have been more perfect today for our sail down the Welsh coast and up the Bristol Channel. Most of the day was scenic cruising fairly close to the coastal cliffs of Wales. We saw many dolphins as well as plenty of sea birds such as gannets, shearwaters, fulmars and guillemots. The morning I spent on deck with the ORCA team before popping down for a quick cheese roll for lunch. Then back onto the promenade deck and finally the balcony for more dolphin watching. My patience was rewarded with three separate pods swimming very close to the ship. I like that all room service is inclusive so I phoned for a couple of tins of diet Pepsi which arrived within minutes. You can order food 24/7 as well as any drinks you like. All drinks arrive in proper glasses.  All the staff are excellent with a great can-do attitude. At lunch on the Veranda, I said I fancied a roll with cheese. This is not on the menu but the waiter soon came back with exactly what I wanted. This is reflected throughout the ship. No one ever says it’s not my job but instead just does as asked. In the afternoon was an impromptu deck concert with free champagne. Today is a formal night so after getting ready my friend and I went to the living room for a pre-dinner drink before going to the main dining room. I chose lobster starter, a duck main course, and a delicious crème brûlée for dessert. There are petit fours every night served by the waiter. In non-Covid times there would also have been a cake stand near the entrance with ginger and mints. The wine, which is included, flows freely. The was Peter Potts but I have come to the cabin so I can watch the sail up the Bristol channel. The show in the playhouse is live streamed to every cabin so I can still watch him as well.

 

 

Wednesday 4th August Bristol

We entered the lock at Royal Portbury docks around 3am and, for some reason stayed in the lock for 2 hours before docking. That solved the mystery I saw when I got up at 3am and saw we were in the lock. The included tour was a panoramic tour of Bristol, but as it is my local city, I had opted for a trip to Bibury, Burford, Tetbury and other Cotswolds villages. We had nearly an hour free time in Bibury to explore Arlington Row - a terrace of medieval weavers’ cottages - as well as the fulling mill and trout stream. There was time for coffee or ice cream before boarding the coach to carry onwards. The afternoon was spent sunbathing and watching car carriers berth and off load. At 5pm the captain came on with his usual departure messages but then added what I suspected might happen. A big storm was approaching from the southwest where we’re headed. I thought we may miss the Isles of Scilly, but instead he had re-ordered our final ports. We lost the circumnavigation of Lundy and were to proceed direct to Falmouth arriving around 2.30pm tomorrow and stay overnight there. Then to the Scillies on Saturday.  Not sure whether we are still going to see the Fastnet race or not now. We left, through the locks and then down the North Somerset coast past Portishead, Clevedon and Weston-super-Mare, sailing between Flat and Steepholms. Dinner was in the MDR before retreating to my cabin to watch Fogwell Flax on the tv.

 

Thursday 5th August

It looks more like October outside. I woke early just in time to see the Seven Stones Lightship. As it is a little bumpy now, I had breakfast in the dining room rather than the grill - mixed berries and blueberry pancakes. People at home are asking me if Saga are worth the extra. Only you can decide that. I can only describe the differences, many of which are quite small but overall add up to a lot. We are treated as adults, with no tour stickers put on our coats. Around 11am stewards walk around the prom deck with trays of ice water, coffee and hot chocolate or will get whatever you wish. The staff are very anticipatory, holding chairs out for you before you have even decided to sit down. Craft classes, including materials, are free. All drinks, food etc is included, such as ice cream, snacks etc Room service is free 24/7, even dinner ordered off the MDR menu. Cabins are spacious and even the lowest grade has all amenities. Luggage is handled from home to cabin and back to home. The new ships are very disabled friendly with automatic doors to open decks and level access. Birthdays are automatically noted and a cake provided for free. The track and trace system on board is simple but effective. Every venue you visit such as the dining room, the spa, the grill et cetera you give your cabin number and it is recorded where are you sat and who you sat next to. In the buffet you are allocated a table. All tables have numbers and you have the table for the duration you wish. This means that as a solo for example if you get up to get something from the buffet your table won’t be cleared and you lose it to someone else.

 

We arrived in Falmouth around 2.30pm round the headland with St Mawes castle and St Anthony’s lighthouse, and are staying overnight. All the tours have been rearranged so we don’t miss any, just not on the original day. All the included tours are this afternoon. I joined the last one leaving at 3.45pm for 3 hours, driving from Falmouth, through Penryn to the mining areas around Redruth and then to Marazion for a photo stop opposite St Michael’s Mount. Then we returned via Helston to the ship. It was frustrating seeing the town all lit up and inviting but unable to go ashore. However, as the winds increased the temptation waned. After dinner I went to the Britannia Lounge for some light music and to watch the dancing. No dance hosts are on board due to Covid. 

 

Friday 6^th Falmouth day 2

Woke to a bright morning over Falmouth. There are more crew drills this morning while most of the passengers are off on tours or river cruises. It was the first time I saw a visual flashing light in conjunction with the normal general alarm signal. There are lots of places to eat and mid-morning, the Living Room is the place to be for Danishes and coffee or hot chocolate, all free (included) of course. I have a relaxed day on board since I decided the possible 20 wooden steps to board the river cruiser might be too much for me. As it happened, I was glad since, due apparently to the weather, the boat cruised the Fal rather than the Helford river! We left Falmouth an hour later than planned at 7 pm due to the winds being too strong to safely leave the berth. The winds kept up all night and the seas were the roughest it has been so far but the ship is very stable. It was beginning to look doubtful for our tender ride to the Scilly Islands though.

 

Saturday 7^th August Isles of Scilly

The next morning when I got up and looked out of the window it was more like December than August. In fact, the sight of these rocky outcrops and islands reminded me most of my first sight of Greenland. I had decided that I would not be going ashore in any event and this was reinforced when eventually the shore tenders arrived. The captain had asked for the most comfortable and enclosed boats but that was not what we were offered – small open boats with enclose wheelhouse, boats that required you to step off the tendering pontoon and onto the side of the boat and step down onto the seats. Given the 3-foot swell the Captain called it off and we sailed away an hour or two after our arrival. We then had a leisurely sail to reach Cowes on the Isle of Wight on Sunday morning to anchor and watch the start of the Fastnet boat race. By the time we had reached the coast of Cornwall the sun had come out and it was quite hot so I retreated to our balcony to watch dolphins again. For dinner that evening we had booked Amalfi, the Italian restaurant on board. The food was amazing, the best Italian food I can remember since we ate on-board Nautica. I chose a shrimp and courgette starter, swordfish for the main and for desert we had a complimentary birthday cake for Caryll. 

 

Sunday 8^th August Cowes

I woke up to find us very close to Cowes and just about to anchor ready for our grandstand view of the start of the 2021 Rolex Fastnet yacht race. Had breakfast in the grill - a delicious freshly made waffle with maple syrup and a cappuccino. On Saga you can have any coffee you like with any meal – cappuccino, Americano, latte, etcetera - they are all included. There is a church service this morning in the Britannia lounge led by the on-board chaplain with contributions from the captain. We have been given our disembarkation instructions so the end is very near now. There were some good offers to stay on board for the next cruise but sadly I have commitments and cannot do that. The race was very exciting; much more so than I was expecting. Our position ‘right in the way’ as the captain put it, meant the yachts had to sail very close. The winds were quite strong and two yachts were dismasted. There was a staggered start for different classes of yacht so in all it lasted from 11 am until nearly 1 pm. We went in for lunch and had a delightful table of six sharing with the ORCA team. During lunch the captain announced a surprise for us. After dinner tonight, or supper as he calls it, there is to be a private firework display from a barge close by Adventure. Particularly nice to hear was that he is allowing as many crew as can make it to join passengers in watching the display.

The fireworks were from a barge moored just off the port side of Adventure and the display lasted a good 5 minutes, during which time stewards came round with trays of brandy and port. The start of the Queen tribute show was delayed by 15 minutes to allow people time to get to the theatre after the fireworks.

 

Monday 9^th August at sea

Monday was lovely sunshine again and the usual final day stuff to sort. My disembarkation information was ambiguous as to whether Caryll and I had a shared or separate cars home - but it was sorted eventually. In the morning I watched the celebrity chef, Kevin Woodford perform Ready Steady Cook with Nigel Blanks, CEO of Saga Cruises and the captain Kim Tanner as contestants. It was very amusing and I watched it live on cabin TV while packing. In the afternoon I particularly wanted to see the Cruise Summary of wildlife recorded by ORCA. Animals included Minke whales, common, bottle-nose and Risso dolphins, harbour porpoise, a loggerhead turtle and basking sharks. Two of my photos of dolphins were featured. That evening we ate in The Supper Club again as it was Caryll’s birthday. I don't know what happened regarding the furnishings on the ship, but that is the only venue I cannot get a comfortable seat. The first time we ate there I couldn’t get out of the chairs so we had a banquette booth but I could hardly get in between the table and seat - OK I know I could lose some weight but then so could many people on board! Food was good though. Then it was time for bed and putting out cases. There wasn't a single case in the corridor as we returned to our cabin about 10.30pm and I soon understood why. As soon as I put something out, it was magically whisked away by crew, who must have been hiding on watch!

 

Tuesday 10^th August Tilbury

Breakfast in The Grill and then to my assigned area to wait for assisted disembarkation. Unfortunately, there were only four wheelchairs and pushers so it was taking a very long time and my driver thought he might have lost me. We got home safely in around 3½ hours and he brought all my luggage up to my front door so full marks.