Monday 30 May 2016

Harmony or Disharmony ?

I am now back from my three night taster cruise on the world’s largest cruise ship – Harmony of the Seas – so here are a few of my thoughts.

I have never made any secret of the fact that I prefer smaller, more intimate ships – ships that feel as if you are sailing on an ocean – so friends thought I had gone crazy to book this cruise, but I am also fascinated by cruise ships, and the new technology that is being employed in them and this brings us to …

 
EMBARKATION
For a ship with close on 6000 passengers this was a dream. RCI have really nailed it. I had done my online check-in a few days before including details of the credit card I would be using on board and even uploading my own security photo. Because of this, I was able to hand over my small suitcase and then go to the terminal where I was met by a roving check-in person holding an iPad. Having checked all was correct and scanned my passport, my seapass was stamped and I was free to walk through security and onto the ship. Possibly due to her size, and also the low level at which the survival craft are placed, boarding was from Deck 2 via dockside. The air-bridge could not be used. However, from inside Deck 2 an escalator took you up to one deck and to the main lifts etc.  The whole embarkation took less than half an hour.


Incidentally the ship's sheer size led to an unusual solution to going ashore at Cherbourg where, once again, the air bridges would not work and gangways had to be rigged across shipping containers!
 

ACCOMMODATION
My cabin was on Deck 7 forward and here was a first indicator of the design of the vessel. Because of the “hole” in the hull where Central Park and the Royal Promenade are situated, you have to make sure you use the correct lifts to reach your cabin and go up one deck to Deck 8 and across and down again to Deck 7. This is not a problem once you have sussed it out.

The stateroom was one of the forward facing ones overlooking the helipad. Not that we wished anyone ill, but it would have been a great spot to watch an evacuation!  The floor area was vast, running right out to a V where the sloping floor-to-ceiling window met the deck. There were four small drawers, another one with hairdryer in over a fridge and a writing desk with glass shelf and mirror. One wardrobe was floor to ceiling handing, with a half-width folding rail that could be dropped if needed. The other wardrobe had half hanging, a safe and two drawers below. We had the cabin in twin bed configuration but they were very close together with tiny narrow nightstands. There was a comfortable sofa opposite the drawers.
 
 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
  
The bathroom was tiny, but with a good shower with glass curved door, toilet and very small hand basin. There were no amenities other than soap and shower gel.
We suffered two major issues – every time water was run from basin or shower, there followed up to an hour of banging pipes and secondly – the toilet flush only worked intermittently! We reported this at least twice a day, every day of our cruise and I am sure it was looked at, as it worked for a bit and then went again. I also found the mattresses too hard for me, but my friend loved them  - obviously a personal choice.


 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
MUSTER DRILL
Muster drill was at 4pm and at first we struggled to find our station. The crew do not as yet know the ship very well and many times when we asked to way to somewhere, had to pull out a plan or ask someone else. It turned out it was in the Gym!  Cruise cards were scanned on entry to ensure all pax attended. Now, although I am not physically disabled to need a wheelchair or crutches, I do have arthritis, a fairly new knee and a strained back at present.  I went to sit down on one of the chairs and promptly got told I couldn’t sit down – no one could sit down! Walking isn’t too bad for me but standing still causes pain, but even explaining this to a sympathetic crew member didn’t get me a chair, although I was allowed to sit until it started properly.  After the emergency signal we all had to stand lined up – without lifejackets since on Harmony you do not get your lifejacket in your cabin.  One reason I was told for not allowing anyone to sit is that it is supposed to simulate a real-life emergency and that sitting down would be the last thing on my mind as I would want to be off the ship as soon as possible. Now this is rubbish in my opinion. As everyone has been told at every previous muster I have ever attended (not this one) the call for passengers to muster station IS NOT the signal to abandon ship. We could be mustered for any number of reasons, for example a fire, where it is then got under control and guests allowed to return to their staterooms.  In fact there was a small fire (Code Bravo on tannoy and Captain explaining the issue a little later) just after we boarded where smoke was coming from the ship’s incinerator.

DINING
Due to the timings of our booked shows, we had opted for My Time dining. This is not quite like Freedom dining on other lines as we still had chosen booked times to eat dinner, but these were different on each night. There are three main dining rooms on three levels with a common open atrium, Silk on the top level, Le Grande on the mid level and American Icon at the bottom. We ate in Silk on the first and second nights and Le Grande on the last night. We chose American Icon for our final breakfast.



The first night service of both food and wine was very slow indeed. Now admittedly there was a flood of people coming in as the show ended at 8.30pm but this would be known in advance. Also, although the ship was new and bedding in, the staff would most likely be recruited from Oasis and Allure so again should be used to the layout with a few adjustments.

First night - Wine didn’t arrive till well into our entrée, my escargots were lukewarm but the salmon was large and cooked perfectly. The New York cheesecake also was perfect. However, my friend never did get her wine receipt, nor her Seapass card back (it was on her bill though!)

Second night – The wine server took so long coming, our embarrassed waiter asked his deputy to take the order. This resulted in the receipt being wrong. Each of us had got a “buy one glass get one free” offer, but as the wine I ordered was rung up as one transaction it didn’t come off the total. (The whole bill was later refunded by Guest Services). My starter was not quite what I expected but was fine, the Shrimps however were overcooked and not at all nice but the Baked Alaska divine.

Third night – This was altogether different with attentive service from both waiters and the wine server. I had Gravadlax to start followed by Caesar Salad and a Marsala Chicken, finished off with a delicious Pavlova.

Naturally on a brand new ship, we felt a duty to sample all the complimentary restaurants J  Our first light lunch on boarding day was in the Windjammer buffet. I suppose it is due to there being so many other places to eat but I thought this very small for so many passengers. Both sides had identical food with pasta and pizza dishes across the end. There is free flavoured and iced water on offer all day and various deck stations dispensing frozen yoghurt but no ice cream that I found.  
Windjammer
Mini Bites

Other complimentary cafes include the Park Café (a sort of Greggs with indoor and outdoor seating), the Promenade Café in the Royal Promenade atrium area, as is Sorrentos for pizza. We tried the Solarium Bistro for breakfast – offering the usual cereals, light cooked food, pastries etc but no orange juice! Our other breakfast we had at Johnny Rockets in The Boardwalk, again with indoor and outdoor seating. This offered typical American diner food and had delicious orange juice. In American Icon we had a choice to go for the express breakfast (a buffet) or a la carte from a menu and served. This was on disembarkation day so I am not sure if the two options were available every day.
 
Snacks were available at the Dog House and Light Bites – corn dogs, chicken “sausage” rolls, spring rolls and cakes.  Also the Café Promenade.
If you were willing to pay extra there was a wide variety of places to dine – Jamie’s Italian, Izmui Hibachi & Sushi, Wonderland, Chops Grille, 150 Central Park  etc.
Izumi
ENTERTAINMENT
The one thing I feel no-one could ever complain about is the superb evening entertainment on these ships. Anthem was brilliant, Harmony was spectacular. The theatre is not that large for the number of guests hence the need to pre-book or risk missing the big shows. However, booking only guarantees you a seat, you have to be early to get a good one and even then the best seats are reserved for top tier loyalty club members (a crew member with a board stands guard over them!).


We booked Grease – a full 1½ hour proper production – and the Ice Show 1887.  The latter was mesmerising with incredible use of technology and projection to simulate a frozen river breaking up, the universe and other Jules Verne-ish ideas.


We had also booked the Aqua show, performed right at the stern of the ship with Olympic-height diving boards and flying rig. We saw a few of the rehearsals which looked great but sadly there were on-going issues with equipment and the shows were cancelled.


All the bars seemed to have live music going on – there was a wonderful Classical Flamenco guitarist in the Schooner Bar which I would have loved to just listen to, but he was largely drowned out by the whistles and general loudness of a hen party group there. At 9.30pm on the first night there was a 90s Street Party performance in the Royal Promenade. My problem with all this is that, like Norwegian Escape, most of the bars are close together and, along with general chatter, sound bleeds from one to the other leading to an almost unbearable noise in the Royal Promenade. At one point, trying to attract my friend’s attention, I shouted her name at the very top of my voice and still she couldn’t hear me, even though I was just behind her!


There are dozens of drinking venues, each with their own theme, from an English Pub to a Mexican Tequila Bar, and including Vintages wine bar, the Schooner Bar and the two most innovative on board – Rising Tide and the Bionic Bar. Rising Tide is a large boat-shaped bar which, every half hour or so, moves slowly up and down between Deck 5 (Royal Promenade)  and Deck 8 (Central Park).
Rising Tide

The Bionic Bar debuted on Quantum of the Seas and features two robotic arms that mix and serve drinks, either from a menu ordered via iPad, or made up to the guests own recipe. Generally a glass of wine costs between 7$-12$ plus the usual 18% gratuity. A Gin Martini cost around $15 inclusive, but was nearly twice a UK measure.





ACTIVITIES

I would imagine the huge range of daytime activities are one of the main reasons for booking on this class of vessel and are likely to appeal to most ages except the elderly. These include the Ultimate Abyss slide (10 decks down in a spiral - no I didn't try it), Zip  Line across The Boardwalk 10 decks up (didn't try that either!), carousel, Champagne Bowl water slide, two rock climbing walls, basketball court, table tennis, two flow riders, crazy golf ……..
There is also the usual bingo and a huge casino.
For children there are scrambling nets and a mini water park with slides etc.


 
DISABLED GUESTS
I would argue that the ship is not ideal for the physically disabled and has some major design flaws that should not occur in a brand new ship. The worst of these in my opinion is the siting of the disabled toilets. Instead of being separate, these are situated within the ladies and gents. This means opening two heavy doors instead of one – and there is no automatic opener that I saw. Once inside, the toilets are very low and only have grab rails to one side and the back. There is no drop-down rail on the other side. They double up as baby change cubicles

As well as sunbeds, there are a lot of chairs with foot rests – something I particularly prefer BUT these are a sort of modern version of a deck chair with a seat that slopes down are are very difficult  to get up from.

Cabin numbers and some other signs are in Braille – but again, weirdly, one I touched had a surface coating that completely smoothed out the Braille symbols so they could not be felt at all, only seen – an inspired touch - not!
 
OVERALL
I enjoyed the three nights as an experience but would not choose Harmony for a cruise, but then I do not fit the target demographic. Above all I want to feel I am on a ship at sea. There was no sensation of this whatsoever. Not only could you not feel any gentle vibration of the engines; there were few places from where you could even see the ocean. I found myself saying to my friend – let’s go back to our room through the park!!! It was indeed a lovely park, especially at night – but I prefer to go to a hotel or resort for that kind of scenery. I also found the overall noise levels too much and for a longer cruise feel a balcony is essential - one on the outside of the ship, not one overlooking the park and overlooked by everyone, both in other cabins and on deck. You could clearly see the beds in them so would need to be very careful about privacy!!

 
Obviously RCI feel there is an increasing demand for these vessels, having just signed a order for a fifth Oasis class ship and for a week floating round the Caribbean they would fit the bill. Personally my cruises are as much itinerary driven as ship driven and these  228,000grt ships are too large for many ports and, given the number of passengers, cannot tender them ashore either. This limits them to big, popular destinations and indeed when she reaches Barcelona (where Harmony is based for the summer of 2016) she will then operate a series of 7-night itineraries to Palma, Marseille, La Spezia and Civitavecchia.
 
She does have a distinct WOW factor which I felt Anthem lacked, and families will love her, but she is not the ship for me.

 





 
 
 
 
 
 
 


 

 

 

Saturday 21 May 2016

New calendars

My recent expedition across the Indian Ocean from Singapore to Cape Town has allowed me some great photographic opportunities so here are a couple of my new calendars, available now or very shortly from online retailers such as Amazon, WH Smith and the Hive.


 
Penguins of South Africa 2017
by Poole Sharon
Link: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1325140341
 

 
Table Mountain One of the Seven Wonders of Nature 2017: The Unique and Beautiful Landscapes of Table Mountain, South Africa (Calvendo Nature)
by Sharon Poole
Link: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1325140295
 
 
Calvendo calendars are premium products - a bit more pricey than others but with added benefits: Our calendars always look beautiful on your wall because we produce them locally with premium paper and sophisticated spiral binding, ensuring easy turning of pages and flat hanging against the wall. A protective transparent plastic cover sheet provides added stability and each calendar comes in five languages.

Sunday 15 May 2016

Aurora - Singapore to Cape Town 10


Wednesday 6 April – Cape Town, S. Africa

We were due to pass the Cape of Good Hope around 6.30am so I was up and ready by 6.15 and went up on deck to watch. It was a stunning morning with a new crescent moon and bright shining star. My friend joined me and we stayed to see Table Mountain come into sight before a quick breakfast.


 
We then got ready to go out as soon as the ship was cleared, buying a 2-day HoHo bus ticket at reception. It was becoming a beautiful hot and sunny day.
 


 
Then we waited and waited and waited... Watching from deck 10, we saw passengers walking off the ship and into the immigration hall and then coming back onto ship. Raised voices were heard then the Deputy Captain made an announcement that there was a missing piece of paperwork and the ship was not cleared for passengers to go ashore. Everyone settled down for a long wait. At least the weather was perfect again and I sat sunbathing and photographing the Crested Terns that had a nursery on the roof of the cruise terminal.
 
It was a very long wait, involving (according to the Captain) the British High Commission, Carnival UK, Carnival US and three South African government departments! Eventually we got off about 4pm and got the free shuttle to the V&A Waterfront.



 
 
This was shopping heaven but although the ship was now here for three days, we had a deadline. We were leaving her tomorrow and needed to pack and get our cases out by 8pm.

Thursday – 7 April – Cape Town, S. Africa

We disembarked about 8.35 after our usual breakfast. It was odd getting off when most people seemed to be staying on board! Our car was waiting for us and took us to the Cape Heritage Hotel, a boutique hotel in 18th century buildings right in the centre of old Cape Town. We were invited to sit in the lounge and brought coffee while they completed the formalities.
 


 
Our room was not ready so we left our luggage and set off for the HoHo bus (having got a refund for the ticket bought on board yesterday). It was another beautiful day and we grabbed the opportunity to get off the bus and get the cable car up to the top of Table Mountain while the weather held as it can so often be covered in cloud - the Tablecloth as it is known. The views were amazing. Whilst waiting for the cable car I saw Red-Winged Starlings with their bright orange-tipped wings and a long-tailed bird flew over – Widow bird? Drongo?
 



 
On the top we saw Dassies or Rock Hyrax – a rodent-like mammal related to elephants, a Black Eagle circling, lizards, lots more tame starlings and butterflies.
 


 
There was much more vegetation than I expected – scrub, heathers and fynbos as well as colourful lichens. Back down again we caught the HoHo bus back to the hotel to complete the route.

 
Finally in our room we realised it was probably not the best one for friends to share since the bath and basin were in the bedroom. Fortunately the shower and toilet had a little more privacy but not that much since a glass screen with partial frosting was all that was between us. We changed and had a short rest then planned to go back and do the HoHo bus route sitting on the other side of the bus as we had missed some good views.
 


 
This time we got off at the V&A Waterfront and browsed the craft market in the Watershed before meeting our friends at one of the restaurants. I had ostrich lasagne with a lovely bottle of local red wine. We then got a taxi back and fell into bed.

Friday 8 April – Cape Town, S. Africa

I woke from a good night sleep. We were being picked up early for an all-day tour round the Cape Peninsular so got up at 7am and had breakfast in the courtyard. We hadn’t confirmed exactly when we were being collected so the hotel staff offered to phone Illios Travel for us. This was just as well as they had us down at the wrong hotel for pick up but it was soon sorted. The driver arrived about 10 mins later and we then drove to Camps Bay to pick up one other couple. Our first stop was at the picturesque Hout Bay, where seals were begging for fish in the harbour.
 

 
 
Next was a longer drive round the beautiful corniche road towards the Cape itself with photo stops where appropriate!
 


 
On the way we passed old and new Townships and saw llama, ostrich, baboons and many birds. Once at the peninsular itself, we took the funicular up to the old lighthouse and walked around it admiring the scenery. From one point you could just glimpse the new lighthouse halfway down the steep cliff. Once again we hit the jackpot with the weather which was hot and sunny with a cloudless sky.
 



 
We then drove round to the actual Cape of Good Hope for a photo stop before driving back towards Boulder’s Beach and the penguin colony. Even better than Chile since this time they had eggs and chicks!
 




 
Magic! We stopped for lunch in the attractive Dutch Colonial Simonstown where most of us had Kingklip which was catch of the day and unique to South Africa. We ate on the verandah with a view of the harbour and a South African choir singing below us.
 
 
Our last stop was the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens. This was vast and hilly so I left the others to do their thing and pottered quietly on my own. This gave me the advantage of spotting birds that may have been frightened off my a noisy group. Following the sounds of twittering I spotted two Southern Double-Collared Sunbirds and their nest.
 


 
Also Guinea Fowl, Egyptian Geese and butterflies. We browsed the huge gift shop but my luggage already feels overweight! We then drove back when, just on the outskirts of the city I spotted two zebras grazing! I wasn't expecting to see wild animals that close to the city but was told they can be sighted sometimes. We got back to the hotel at 5 pm. Dinner was at 7.30pm (kindly booked by the hotel) in the courtyard bistro, not that we needed much after such a substantial lunch!

Saturday 9 April – Cape Town, S. Africa

It was lovely not to have to get up too early as this was our final day in South Africa. We sorted out the luggage to hopefully get within our 23kgs allowance! Then it was down to breakfast of fresh fruit and home-made bread etc. The coffee was delicious and it was good to savour it after having to rush off on our tour the day before. After breakfast we set off for one last look around, heading for the street market we saw a couple of days ago in passing.
 
 
It was a Saturday and the area was very busy with children dancing to drums for money. A man accosted us begging for money but was very soon seen off by one of the security men around. The stalls were colourful and brimming with tempting souvenirs and local crafts – township art, beaded jewellery, malachite, soapstone and wooden carvings, bright cotton printed fabrics and clothing, pretty scarves, carved and painted ostrich eggs and musical instruments (drums and thumb pianos). After I had completed my purchases of a township art panel and a Zulu beaded necklace, and looked round a little more, we headed back to the hotel to complete our packing and change for the flight home.
 
I knew I should have put my flight socks on that morning before my feet swelled and got hot and sticky! Our transfer car arrived a little early than the 3pm collection time and we said goodbye to our hosts at the Cape Heritage Hotel. The journey took about 30 mins, passing the spot where I had seen the zebras the day before, but no sightings now. After going through security – yes, I set the alarms off again – we browsed the airport shops for a while, before we settled down to use the 30mins of free Wi-Fi, with a view of our plane (a Boeing 747) being prepared for us. The flight was called about 6.30pm and we found our seats – both aisle ones with me in front of my friend. Unfortunately the plane was full so no chance to spread over more than one seat! We landed early at 6am but luggage took an age to arrive, sending Andy’s car parking over to the next price band! We were back in Southampton by 9am and after an hour’s doze, I set off for home arriving at 2pm.

It was a wonderful holiday and so different from anywhere I have ever been before, although the Seychelles in particular looked like the Caribbean to me. I did find the heat and humidity challenging but thankfully had only taken cotton or linen clothing so managed. It was also very useful to get a taste of how our world cruise will be next year, and in particular the cabin arrangements. I have since bought a few items that I hope will make our living in a confined space easier - hanging pockets and the like.

So only two weeks now till my next ship fix - the largest ship in the world (for a time anyway) - Harmony of the Seas - and a three night trip to Cherbourg.