Adonia cruise - part 6

Saturday 30 August - Seville

We were due to leave at 10am so Caryll nipped ashore again while I had a leisurely breakfast. I bumped into Captain Box just as I was surreptitiously trying to carry a chair up to Deck 10 (err - a tad embarrassing) and he introduced me to his wife! Whoops.

 

With everyone back on board from wanderings and the one morning tour, we slipped our lines. The Sailaway party was in full swing as the Ice Bucket Challenge took place on deck in aid of McMillan nurses. 

 

Just after sailing under the lifting bridge – Adonia came to a stop. A circuit breaker on the port propulsion unit had tripped. After around an hour of sitting mid-river, Captain Box announced we had missed the tidal window and would have to stay there until late that evening. We were assisted over to a commercial dock about half a mile further downriver from our previous berth.

After some lunch Caryll and I walked ashore again (no shuttle buses could be procured) and as far as the Plaza d'Espana where we enjoyed the trees, museums and huge main building with canals and bridges.

 

After an ice cream we decided to get a horse and carriage ride back. The driver spoke no English but we thought we had mimed 'the big boat' to him, until he took us to the yacht marina! Gesticulating that this was wrong and to keep going further along the river, we knew where we were but couldn't find the entrance, so he stopped the horse on the outside lane of a dual carriageway and flagged down a police car on the opposite side to ask how to get into the port! By now I was seriously worried about the poor horse!! It seemed the only way in was right up the dual carriageway to a slip road on the right.

Having finally reached the port he stopped at the port gates miming he couldn't go any further! Hmmm - it was 41c again and a long walk back to Adonia. Waving our cruise cards at the gate sentry we prepared to set off walking - perhaps the carriage hadn't been such a good idea - when the gate guard shouted at us in Spanish and herded us into a Port Police vehicle!

By now I didn't care where he took us - but we were unceremoniously returned to the very bottom of the gangway in full view of everyone!!! One lady rushed forward asking if the vehicle was a taxi - err no I said! It was a police car picking up two pathetic looking women at the dock gate - I can look pathetic she said!! So - that was our adventure in Seville.

After dinner we won the quiz again and went to bed. We left at 11.30pm with the prop unit all repaired, despite the rumours going round the ship that the captain had run her aground, but sadly missed the second river transit back out to sea!

Adonia cruise - part 5

Friday 29 August - Seville

The Banks of Guadalquivir by

Luis de Góngora (1561–1627)  Translated by Edward Churton

I SAW at dawn a vision rare,
A maiden as the morning fair,
Who sate and dressed her golden hair
On the banks of Guadalquivir.

Her hand, as through her locks it strayed,
While with her ivory comb she played
Threw the white ivory into shade
On the banks of Guadalquivir

What wonder? April ne’er could show
Such whiteness in the blooms that blow
Where all his laughing lilies grow
That fringe the crystal river

The little birds in joyous throng
Sang o’er again their morning song
To that new sun; nor were they wrong
Such glad salute to give her:

For why? The Sun well pleased had paid
A thousand rays for one bright braid
Like those his envious glance surveyed
On the banks of Guadalquivir

 
OK, my plan to be up at around 5am for the whole transit of the Guadalquivir River to Seville was somewhat thwarted by the fact that - obviously if I'd thought about it - it was dark and there was nothing to see so I got semi-dressed and back into bed until about 6.30 when dawn was just breaking. It was magical in the early quiet with the birds just beginning to wake and feed and the soft shoosh of the water against the hull of Adonia. The river was lined with eel-fishing traps in places.

There were only two of us up there initially, but it was worth it for the beautiful dawn over the rice paddies and drainage channels. There were lots of birds – herons, egrets etc. and a farmer crop-spraying with a light aircraft which buzzed overhead.

This was proper river cruising - in an ocean liner! Gradually the scenery became more built up and industrial as we neared Seville itself until we reached the lock and the new canal cut into the city centre.

 

 

We arrived in the city at 11.30. Once berthed (in front of Uniworld’s Belle de Cadix) we had a quick lunch and caught the Hoho bus on an hour's tour, getting off at the Torre del Oro and walking to the Cathedral, Giralda Tower and through the attractive narrow streets near the Alcazar. Seville being in Andalucía, some of the architecture is very Moroccan in style. - called Mudejar.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It was hot - very hot 44C hot!! So after a while we returned to Adonia for a shower and change and a quick dinner in the Conservatory.  We were to stay in Seville overnight so after dinner we walked back to the Cathedral along the river as far as the Torre del Oro and then inland to the church. Behind the Cathedral in the Calle Placetines we had spotted a bar earlier with a free flamenco show at 9pm so that was where we sat and drank a large glass of sangria in the evening sun, at the foot of the Giralda Tower, before slowly making our way back to the ship along the river. A perfect day.

 

Adonia cruise - part 4

Thursday 27 August - Portimao

Once again we watched the sail in from deck 10 and the Conservatory. It was going to be another beautiful hot and sunny day as we passed the tourist beaches of Praia de Rocha to our berth.

 

After breakfast we got the free shuttlebus into the town. This was our second visit to Portimao so we thought we see the town itself as last time we went on a tour to Sagres and Lagos. Portimao is a typical Portuguese small town with grand churches, big squares with modern fountains and the ubiquitous black and white marble set paving.

 

There was a nice seafront promenade with stalls selling boat trips etc. but we didn't really have the time for those. We were amused by a small park I which all the trees had been clothed in crochet - after enquiring at the tourist information we were told a local textile group had produced the outdoor exhibition to welcome spring. After a wander and explore round the shopping streets (and a friendly chat with an attentive cat) we walked back to the largest square. Here I had a huge cake (I thought it was two when I asked for one but got given the lot!!) and drink outside while Caryll tried to get free Wi-Fi.

 

After sitting in the glorious sun some more, I returned to the ship leaving Caryll to catch the bus to Praia da Rocha and have a long walk back to the ship. Adonia always looks like she is parked in a field at Portimao!

 

Meanwhile I had a delicious “fisherman’s sandwich” at the Grill and sunbathed until her return. We were on deck for a fabulous sailaway past the coastal resorts and stunning beaches lined with people waving at us.

 

Then it was time for a shower and change for a semi-formal night. At the quiz we drank our prize wine from the night before but lost the quiz!

 

Adonia cruise - part 3

Wednesday 27 August - Lisbon

We got up early to watch the sail in on deck with the Housekeeping Manager. Lisbon is always a lovely arrival up the River Tagus past the Belem Tower, the Monument of the Discoveries and under the 25 April Bridge. Independence of the Seas followed us in but as we sailed to the cruise ship berth near the Alfama District, she turned to port immediately after the bridge and berthed at the commercial dock - the disadvantages of a big ship!

 

We went down one deck for breakfast out on the aft deck behind the Conservatory, where Captain Box (who invariably eats his breakfast there) popped over to say hello.

After clearance, we took the shuttle in to Figuera Square and then the local bus to St George’s Castle, somewhere neither of us had visited before on our numerous calls at Lisbon. After a short but steep climb to the ticket office, we were in the main grounds and spent a lovely couple of hours or so wandering round the castle site.  The views from the top were spectacular!

 

Caryll climbed up to the ramparts while I stayed down to photograph some birds of prey.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It was time for one of Lisbon's famous custard tarts and a beer at the Castle café. Wandering round the feet of diners was a peahen and her three chicks, while other peacocks flew into the trees over our heads! I gave her a crumb or two by hand. 

 

Then we caught the bus back down and walked the main shopping streets. One shop was offering port tasting - too good to refuse and probably my only chance to taste old vintage - absolutely delicious! I bought a half bottle and some bargain-priced perfect-colour red/cream fabric to make a tablecloth before, as usual, leaving Caryll ashore for a little longer as I boarded the shuttle bus back to the ship. A point about these - they used to be free for everyone but now P&O have brought in a two-tier fare structure, everyone's cruise card is scanned before boarding and those on Saver Fares are charged per journey. I then sat on deck till Caryll joined me for sailaway. As Adonia drew away from the quayside we got a very good view of two classic liners, laid up at Lisbon. The Porto and the Lisboa both belong to Portuscale Cruises, http://www.portuscalecruises.pt/ . In fact they also own the Funchal that we are sailing on next month, chartered to Cruise & Maritime Voyages. It was sad to see such venerable ships out of use but hopefully a charterer will come along. The fourth ship in their fleet, Azores, is also going to CMV next year. 

 

 

 

As we sailed Adonia was surrounded by huge jellyfish - the classic Portuguese Man o'war??

Casual night, so dinner and quiz - which we won!