Braemar continued...

The next morning (21st November) I woke to see we were already in the Seine. After breakfast in the Palms Café, I went out to stand on Marquee Deck to watch the river transit. Caryll soon joined me and I had another coffee while she had breakfast in the Grampian restaurant. We both then stood at the stern on the prom deck to watch us sail through the Normandy countryside. Unfortunately the weather was grey, damp and misty although you could see patches of blue sky above the cloud layer. People ashore and on the ferries waved at us as we sailed past, a few sounding their horns at the ship or stopping to take a photo of us. There were hedgerows and trees laden with mistletoe, half-timbered tumbledown barns and cottages, small towns and ruined abbeys and castles.

 

I always find it strange sailing past town and seeing traffic and people going to work or shopping, whilst sailing on an ocean-going vessel!

 

As we neared the industrial outskirts of Rouen, Braemar was spun 180 degrees and reversed to her berth on the seaward side of the new lifting bridge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our tour to Honfleur was leaving at 2.15 so we had lunch in the Palms Café before going down to the show lounge to get our tour stickers. It was not long before we were asked to go down to the coaches. Unfortunately it was one of the high-level coaches – great views but very steep stairs and excruciatingly limited legroom, at least on the nearside. I have visited Honfleur once before and loved it and Caryll had always wanted to see it so I was happy to return. We followed our guide round from the Salt Warehouse and through the medieval streets as far as the church and then had an hour of free time to return to the harbour and take photos of the pretty shops.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



Unlike my last visit, early in the day with blue skies, this time we were able to watch the sun slowly set over the harbour – a beautiful scene. I bought a bottle of Calvados with raspberries and we explored the shops and streets north of the harbour. It was dark when we set off to return to the coach for the hour and a quarter drive back to Rouen and Braemar.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It was our only formal night that evening – a shame since many people were ashore in Paris. In view of this, in lieu of a Captain’s welcome party, free drinks were available in any of the bars for half an hour before our respective dinner sittings.

That night we were back to set table dining and we were taken to table 52 in the Thistle Restaurant – right at the stern with a view of the wake – perfect (even though we were in port on most of our evenings). One of the nicest things about Braemar were the lovely passengers. There was a good mix of age range, which I wasn’t expecting from Fred!, but may have been because of the unusual itinerary. Whenever we sat to eat – open sitting breakfast or lunch, at dinner, we were all soon chatting like old friends, even in the bars. It was certainly a refreshing change from other ships where passengers tend to regard solo women with a degree of suspicion!!

 

 

 

Short break on Braemar

I have often spoken of the fact that I didn't really like my only Fred Olsen experience on Balmoral - although to this day I can't exactly put my finger on why. I therefore decided to give them another go with a short break to Rouen on their baby ship - Braemar - especially with the offer of a superior twin for sole occupancy with no single supplement! My friend had later decided to join me when a single cabin became available.

I travelled down to my friend at Hythe on Wednesday afternoon and arrived about 4.15pm. We had both received letters advising us that Braemar was arriving straight from Hamburg following a refit and that we should adhere to our check-in times (4.30 for me, 6pm for her) as she would not arrive until mid afternoon.  As we watched Braemar arrive early at noon, we decided that she may start boarding earlier and so set off for the ferry at about 1.30, arriving at the Ocean Terminal at 2.15. Interestingly she didn't sail in via the deep water channel with the sharp turns at Calshot, but sailed straight in via the North Channel.

 

Check in was swift but then we had a long wait of about 2 hours before finally being invited to go through security. Knowing how sensitive the security scanners are at Ocean, I was dreading having to take my boots off but thankfully the woman there suggested I try and go through the scanner and see if my boots set it off, in which case I would have to return, take them off and go through again – they didn’t! We finally got on board about 5.30 and set off to our cabins – mine on deck 6, Caryll’s on deck 2. I had a superior twin for sole occupancy, with obstructed view and best of all – no single supplement!  It was a nice welcoming cabin with bed, sofa bed, very large window (with tender outside), twin wardrobe with safe in one half, three drawers and the smallest bedside tables I have ever seen! There was excellent storage in the bathroom with a corner mirrored cupboard and shelf under the basin. The large flat-screen TV was interactive and mounted on an adjustable arm. There was a hairdryer mounted by the dressing table and a tray with tea and coffee making facilities. Caryll’s cabin was not so nice, although it had all the same facilities. It was in the middle section of the stretched ship and had better wardrobe space and coded safe unlike mine which was opened with a key, but required a card to activate the lights etc. The trouble was that there were no pictures and acres of empty space where they had just taken a bed away to make it a single cabin.

 

Our luggage was there so we unpacked, changed and explored the ship before muster drill at 7.15pm. Dinner had been changed to an open sitting that night, with the restaurant closed while muster drill took place. My muster station was in the Coral Club and it was nice to sit with a drink while it took place! Finally, with all aboard, Braemar set sail as we settled down to dinner in the Thistle Restaurant. We had a table for four on this occasion, with a brother and sister (on her first cruise). After dinner we did a quiz in the Morning Light Pub but didn’t stay up too late as I wanted to be out on deck for the sail up the river Seine the following morning.

The new Café Venus

 

 

As a PS to the first day I later read this story in the Southampton Daily Echo, that a lady had got locked out on her balcony on Deck 7 and had to call the coastguard!

http://www.dailyecho.co.uk/news/shipping/11616986.Cruise_ship_passenger_calls_coastguard_after_getting_stuck_on_balcony/?ref=mac

 

Getting ready to cruise again!

After last month's adventures on Funchal I am looking forward to a short break of three nights on Fred Olsen's Braemar. I have not sailed on Braemar before and it looked like a good opportunity to try a new ship. Although I confess I wasn't that impressed with FO on my Balmoral cruise three years ago I thought a different ship might change my views.

Unfortunately the Royal Mail managed to lose my luggage tags etc so I now have a good old-fashioned replacement set from Fred - below!

The highlight of this cruise to Rouen should be the sail up the Seine to berth in the town itself, where we stay overnight. If it is as good as our Guadalquivir transit in August it will be wonderful. I will naturally report back in due course.

Meanwhile - we have completed the Cunard 175 book and I have also published a calendar of my photographs of various cruise ships I have encountered over the last year of so. A taster is below -

 

The calendar can be ordered through Amazon among other places.

            http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1325027405

Funchal - the end

Thursday 30^th October

After all the confusion and conflicting advice yesterday as to when or if to put out our luggage, we had packed and put it out at midnight last night. We woke up just as we were sailing up the Tagus River. I was soon out on deck to take photos of the Belem Castle and Monument of the Discoveries as this time it was from a very different angle being so comparatively low in the water. My friend joined me and I spotted a ship following us in to Lisbon - my favourite - Oriana! We sailed under the 25 April Bridge, but in the centre as usual but under the land-side span! We were berthing at the cruise terminal near to the bridge and Container Terminal and just across from Azores - being refitted before joining Cruise & Maritime Voyages next year. We even had our own tug!! Switzer Funchal.

We had breakfast and then pottered around on deck waiting for permission to leave. We saw our cases waiting on the quayside, so around 9.45am said our goodbyes and went to go ashore. As they were scanning our cards at the gangway, My friend was denied shore leave due to a so-called unpaid bill! As she had cleared her account last evening this was a complete surprise and a bit embarrassing. I continued down the gangway to claim our cases while she sorted it. Then we walked out through the terminal to the car park expecting to see a car and driver with my name - nothing! After 10 mins, I phoned the company and eventually was told it would 10-15 mins. By the time 10.30 came we were starting to panic and I called again. This time I was struggling to make myself understood, finally resorting to a phonetic language I thought he might understand - P for Portugal, O for Obidos, O, L for Lisbon, E for Estoril! One of the taxi drivers burst out clapping! Just as I was starting to lose it the car arrived - he had gone to Oriana!  He quickly loaded our cases and we sped through the outer roads to the airport where we arrived at around 11.00 - just time to check-in our bags and then head through security. It was straightforward and we didn't have to show phones and cameras switched on. Into the departures lounge to wait for around an hour. When the time came to check in at the gate our passports were checked and we then had another wait. Apparently they had switched aircraft and ours needed refuelling etc. Finally we were able to climb the steps and find our seat. It was a bit cramped but I had room to stretch my legs out. We took off about 10 mins late but still arrived early. Once through passport control we claimed our cases were on our way home.

In conclusion - Funchal is small and an old ship - we knew this and this was the attraction in booking her, BUT we enquired beforehand on various forums and no-one said she rolled so much. It may have been that her stabilisers were damaged while waiting out the storm in the Irish Sea. It also never occurred to me that the retrofitted lifts didn't go up as far as our deck meaning we had to use the stairs, regardless. The crew were pretty much universally friendly and service was good. The food was tasty and interesting and often ethnic, although not always to my taste. I love fish, but the few I tried were very bony - which I hate. The cabin was small and storage limited but fine for our 8 days on board. The décor was a mixture of modern (to meet new SOLAS regs) and 1960s - fortunately a period I love. Daytime activities were limited and often childish but fun if you joined in with the right spirit. I loved the shows which were very different from mainstream lines - the dancers were balletic and the final show depicting the history of Portugal, captivating. Would I go again - possibly not but I certainly don't regret trying her.

Boat deck (another promenade deck below)

 

Funchal - Portimao

Wednesday 29^th October

Woke up and pulled open the curtain to find we were nearly at Portimao - an hour early!  After a few photos on deck and breakfast we waited for our excursion to Carvoeiro and Lagos. We had only been here a few weeks ago in August so were a bit disappointed to be here again so soon, hence the tour to see somewhere different and have more time in Lagos. We did spot that storks were now nesting on the tall red-brick chimneys that are dotted around the town - remnants of the sardine-canning industry!

We drove out into the countryside over the bridge (grabbing a photo or two of Funchal) to the pretty seaside town of Carvoeiro. we had just half an hour of free time to walk down the shell-scattered sands to the water, past a few fishing boats hauled up to the road. The high cliffs lining the bay were pock-marked with caves and were a stunning golden colour with white houses lining the hilltop.

After a walk around we drove to the stunning view point over the cliffs outside Lagos before driving into the town itself.

Here I detached myself from the walking tour and explored alone a little, walking up the narrow pedestrianised streets lined with cafes etc. We had an hour here so I walked up as far as the big square with the old Slave Market and church before doubling back along a parallel street towards the market.

Me being me, I popped into a jewellery shop, where the two assistants were both looking down behind the counter. Looking to see what they were talking to I found a tiny puppy. He was very nervous but eventually crept forward for a scratch. I think he was maybe a Great Dane - he had huge feet! Wandering back to the small square near where we had been dropped off, I found a delightful craft shop with beautiful carved stone birds on rocks - sadly too heavy to buy given our flight home! I then met up with Caryll again and we wandered over to the river frontage and sales stalls where I bought a couple of scarves for 3 Euros each. Then it was time to board the coach back to Portimao.

  As we both wanted better shots of the ship and also the nesting storks, we both got off the coach and straight back onto the shuttle into Portimao. We still couldn't get good views though and after half an hour returned to the ship. We were on deck as it is always an interesting sailaway from Portimao, although unlike previous visits, the sun was setting when we left. Then it was time to change for our last dinner on board.