Arctic waters

Last week I returned from a  wonderful cruise on the lovely Oriana to Iceland, Greenland and Scotland. P&O haven't cruised these waters for some years so I jumped at the chance to return.

Nuuk, Greenland, 2007

My first cruise to these countries was back in 2007 on P&O's Artemis. It was not a great success since we lost Glengariff in Ireland due to it being too rough to tender, Qaqortoq and Akureyri due to ice in the fjords and half a day in Reykjavik due to high winds! There was also thick fog slowing us down. Although this was the same time of year I was hoping for better luck this time.

Our first iceberg

I can understand why P&O do not sail these waters often as  huge amount of additional organisation is required. Once at Reykjavik we picked up two specialist ice pilots, one of whom was always on the bridge. We also sailed with an additional deputy captain, had searchlights mounted and manned at night and had to report home every half an hour whilst in potentially dangerous waters. 


In the event the weather could not have been better with mainly clear bright skies, comfortable temperatures and little fog. There were many highlights but two for me were the rare opportunity for a ship of Oriana's size to sail through Prins Christian Sund, the captain performing a 360 degree spin in front of one of the many glaciers, and the spectacular wildlife on display - whales, dolphins, porpoises, puffins, fulmars, seals and arctic terns. 

Prins Christian Sund connects the Labrador Sea with the Irminger Sea. Around 60 miles long, it is as narrow as 1,600 ft in places. The fjord is surrounded by desolate mountains over 7,200 ft high and glaciers drop straight into its waters where they calve icebergs. It easily and favourably compares with Alaska or the Chilean Fjords and I spent the transit on he aft Terrace Deck, where I could dodge from side to side as waterfalls and glaciers appeared.

As I had spent an afternoon in Reykjavik before, I opted for tours into the countryside. Southern Iceland was so beautiful with vast lava fields covered with bright lush mosses and wild lupins. Occasionally steam rose from active volcanic fumeroles and boiling mud pools. The country is sparsely populated with most settlements along the coastline. 

Northern Iceland was different - more like Norway with deep fjords and high plateau. In some deep crevices the snow never melts. We had three ports of call - Reykjavik in the south west and Isafjordur and Akureyri in the north. 

Our first sight of Greenland was of high, jagged mountains with plenty of icebergs littering the coast. We  were calling at the capital Nuuk (otherwise called Gothab) and Qaqortoq (Julianhab). I had been to Nuuk on my previous cruise here, which was just as well since instead of tendering into the heart of the old port, we were berthed at the container port. Since this was one of the few places we had high winds and rain, I declined the very long walk into town, since there were no shuttle buses or taxis available. I wasn't happy about it though. 

Fortunately at Qaqortoq we had a lovely day and, once off the tender, we were able to wander round this small but very different port. There were two lovely churches and typical Scandinavian buildings dotted at random angles beside the roads. The only problem here were the swarms of ferocious mosquitoes and midges and I soon understood why the locals wore netted hats! It is also very hilly with a great deal of heavy vehicle traffic.

Callanish standing stones, Isle of Lewis

Loch Lomond

Our other ports on this cruise were the Isle of Lewis in the Hebrides, Greenock and Torshavn in the Faroes. Greenock was a repeat port but Stornaway and Torshavn were both new to me. I was lucky to get ashore at Stornaway and it was quite choppy and soon after tendering was stopped. I think the captain did well to get anyone ashore and certainly the journey back was bumpy enough to make the P&O tender assistant seasick! I loved this remote island with it's peat moorlands and craggy outcrops with grazing sheep. 

Torshavn, Faroes

Faroes

The Faroes were surprisingly different with deep fjords and huge towering mountains criss-crossed with sheep tracks.

All in all, this was a great cruise in a stunning part of the world well worth exploring.