Friday 4 October Tortola

We arrived at dawn and once again were the only ship in port. I was on a tour to see the main sights – The Best of Tortola. I boarded the usual Caribbean style bus – open sided, very high steps and bench seats. 

 

We first drove through the town as the children were going to school. Everyone of them looked very smart in their uniforms and most said hello very politely as we waited at one of the three traffic lights on the island. You do NOT want to do this tour if you do not like heights. We drove up what seemed like 1 in 3 roads and round hairpin bends to Great Mountain for stunning views of all the surrounding islands, as well as the ship.

 

Next stop was Cane Garden Bay. Here we were able to walk along the beach, paddle or just sit and absorb the warmth and scenery. There were artists’ workshops and the usual souvenirs as well.  Then up and down some more hair-raising roads, past Carrot Bay etc to the famous Pusser’s Landing and another rum punch!  We had an hour here which I felt was ample. It is very touristy with expensive shops and not a great deal to see or do besides admire the floating real estate! 



Cane Garden Bay

We then drove along the coast road back to Road Town, past the mangroves which are being planted to help stop coastal erosion, especially during hurricanes. Some of us got off the bus at the big market before wandering back to the ship.

Pusser's Landing

The day was a lot less humid than Antigua and there was a welcome breeze.  Tortola appeared to be a more affluent isalnd than Antigua to me. I spent the afternoon dozing in the shade on deck. Sailaway was delightful in the late afternoon sun, and those of us on the Observation deck spotted a turtle swimming close to the ship, as pelicans dived for the fish we disturbed! 

Day 10 - Landfall

Thursday 3 October Antigua

We arrived to a heavy rain shower but it soon cleared. It was wonderful to see the huge Frigate birds circling the ship and nicking food from the terns as pelicans skimmed over the water in the harbour.

I had chosen the Highlights of Antigua and Lobster Lunch tour. We walked along the boardwalk past the excursion catamarans and boarded a very smart minibus with aircon (Yeh!) and toured most of the island, including Block House Ruins, Shirley Heights and stopped for views over Falmouth and English harbours, before going to Nelsons Dockyard for our lunch.




Falmouth & English Harbours

There had been a few showers as we toured and at Nelsons Dockyard we could hear thunder rumbling in the distance but after a brief light shower we had sunshine the rest of the day. The lunch was buffet style – green salad, mango or guava dressing, Caribbean style rice, banana fritters and steamed veggies with Rum Punch (151% proof!).

It was fascinating seeing the real island life in the interior with its rich fruit plantations – guava, mango, banana (called fig here) etc. After lunch we went to Turner Beach where we had about one and a half hours to swim, sunbathe etc.

By now the sun was out in ernest and it was the perfect Caribbean beach – white sand, blue sea, palm trees, umbrellas, etc. I was particularly interested in the wildlife, especially the birds such as Wilson's Plover. In the sand were small holes and now and again a small crab peeped out! Inland we also saw geckos and mongooses. We got back to the dock at 4.30 and I stayed on deck for the sailaway.

The sun was setting and the town looking beautiful bathed in the golden light as pelicans dived in our wash for the fish we disturbed. We are now sailing for Tortola.

Day 9 - en route to Antigua

Day 9 – en route to Antigua  3 October 2012

8am and it was 29 degrees!  Our world is blue – ocean blue, sky blue and turquoise wake, each intensified by contrasting white of fluffy clouds and foam from the wash.

 

I have seen just one ship during our crossing, and that was several days ago.  On the 360 degree horizon there is just water with Oriana at the centre. Today I saw our first sea bird since Madeira – a flash of white against the blue of the sky. Comparatively few people experience transatlantic passages and I feel privileged to be one of them – they are truly different from normal cruising, which will resume tomorrow when we reach Antigua. There was a dramatic storm last night. I woke around 4am to a rattling sound. Although I am in an inside cabin, the left hand side is superstructure out onto open deck and the rain was so torrential it was beating against it. I heard the thunder and switched on the bridgecam on my cabin TV to see great flashes of lightning. I couldn’t resist getting up and peeping out of my cabin door through the glass door next to my cabin that leads out onto the Terrace Deck to watch. It certainly cleared the air this morning, although everyone woke to a new problem. One of the engines had shot out black soot all over the aft decks which had to be cleared and cleaned.

The Peninsular lunch was at noon. There were not that many people there, nor at the Ligurian and Baltic one which was yesterday.  I was on a table for 8 with the Accommodation Services Manager, who was very entertaining, as was everyone on the table. I now feel overly stuffed and too hot and have returned to my cabin to rest and cool down. It is our last formal night tonight until we start our return journey on Tuesday.

Days 7 - 8 Mid Atlantic

Day 7-  mid Atlantic

I guess these reports are starting to sound boring for anyone who has yet to cruise or doesn’t like sea days! We are three days into our crossing with two more to go to reach Antigua and at the noon announcement were halfway across, steaming at around 19 knots with the ship on track pilot (Auto pilot). Everyone is settling into shipboard routine. At breakfast this morning, which I took outside as usual (fresh mango and pineapple,) it was already 76 degrees.

 

At noon it was into the higher 80s. I haven’t done much today aside from the travelling alone meeting, as I had a book signing at 10am. This went very well and I have another to do on the way home again. I then just lazed in the shade of the prom deck with my book in between watching the flying fish leap in our bow wash.

 

These hot leisurely days are bliss after the stressful days at work of late.  The invitations have come for the Caribbean lunch which is in 2 days’ time.  I was interested to hear from another pax that there will not a video of this cruise. I don’t usually buy them so hadn’t noticed, but apparently it is because only 4 photographers are on board and there need to be 5 for a video?? Not sure how true that is though.   

Day 8 Mid Atlantic

It has been very hot today, and although the sun came out in the middle of the day, the afternoon has been hot and sultry until now. I am sitting in the shade of the promenade deck as I type this. I have been reading most of the day since the book I brought with me I have found gripping. It is called The Help and in fact the film is showing tonight on the ship. It is about civil rights in Mississippi in the early 1960s. A great read. It is semi formal tonight…sorry Smart! ..so I will be off for my fourth shower of the day!  I have to say it has been very hot – I get up shower, have breakfast, play shuffleboard, shower, read, have lunch, shower….. so much for conserving water on board. I guess the ship is having to make large quantities as we go. The Captain wandered round the decks chatting this morning. There have been three weddings on board so far so I guess he has been very busy. There have been a good few steamer chair hoggers today!

Because of my spa appointment and then shuffleboard it was 11am before I reached the decks, and by then every chair on the prom. deck was either occupied or had a book and towel occupant!  It was 4pm before I got a free one!  On the other hand it you are happy with the normal sunbeds there are plenty around and also the reclining chairs that I like, both teak and white plastic. One more sea day to go until Antigua. I guess it’s going to get hotter yet!

Day 5 at sea en route to Antigua

Now we are into proper cruising weather! The day dawned sunny and clear. By an hour later the sea was the deepest blue I have ever seen and the sky just a few shades lighter with puffs of cotton wool along the horizon. After breakfast outdoors I sat out for a while before heading up to the sun deck to play in the shuffleboard tournament. Uhmm – all I can say is we lost in the first round! Still – plenty more days to play yet. Then I pottered round the ship, set up two book signings over the course of the cruise and after a salad lunch have been sitting on the prom deck, firstly to catch the sun, but latterly in the shade as it was too hot! I am now sitting typing this on the teak tables aft on the prom deck. The new stern deck round the Terrace Pool is lovely with slightly higher sun beds and a bar but you need to get a spot early in the day. It should also be nice in the evenings when we get to the Caribbean .

 

Another lovely dinner, preceded by cabin canapés and the Peninsular Club half bottle of Lanson Champagne! Then went to listen to the classical guitarist in the Crows Nest before stepping out onto the stern deck for some air before bed. It is the most beautiful evening out – calm seas, a gently rippling wake visible in the moonlight and warm balmy air. Although I have done several northern-route crossings, it completely escaped my mind that we would similarly gain an hour a day on the way to the Caribbean – doh! Still, all this fresh air and heat has made me sleepy for bed.  More tomorrow I hope. 

PS: - another slight but welcome change is that at dinner we not only get butter pats but a small dish of olive tapenade or hummus etc. It is delicious on the bread rolls!

 

Day 6 at sea

The day dawned a bit cloudy with occasional showers, so after breakfast on deck I decided to go to the church service. Then, a lazy time reading in the sun before a late lunch and the shuffleboard competition. I must be getting better since I made the semi-finals before being knocked out.

 

Tonight is smart so I am sipping my Peninsular Champagne from last evening as I get ready in the cabin.

Day 4 Funchal, Madeira

We arrived around 8.30 to heavy cloud but it soon cleared to hot sun with white clouds, although, being the green and verdant island it is, there were a few spots of rain during the day. Already in port were Saga Ruby and Grand Mistral (a Spanish cruise ship).

 

I caught the free shuttle into the main town and explored for about three hours. I was debating whether to get the two cable cars up to the Botanic Gardens but it was 29 euros with entrance as well, so settled on the Hop on Hop off bus tour at 12 Euros. This was great value and as well as touring around Funchal it also took us high up into the mountains and round the coastline to a fishing village. I got back about 3pm and grabbed a bite to eat on the stern deck outside of the Conservatory.  The two other ships sailed first so we had great views as they passed Oriana. Then Saga Ruby stopped in the water outside the harbour and lowered two tenders. Goodness knows why! One circled round from the port side, steamed back and then they were raised! Curiouser and curiouser! We now face the five sea days, although the Captain says that Hurricane Nadine has now subsided somewhat so hopefully she won’t affect us. As we left Madeira, we sailed close along the coast for an hour or so so I saw the places the HoHo bus had taken me earlier from the sea this time. As we sailed there was a beautiful rainbow from the land across the water!

It is a casual night tonight and 60s/70s, I sat in Andersons for a pre-dinner cocktail and was surprised to be offered a plate of canapés. I have experienced this on Cunard but never before on P&O.  There were only three of us at dinner until a fourth turned up at around 9pm, having fallen asleep in her cabin! Our waiters are very friendly and give excellent service. We are usually through dinner by 10pm so plenty of time to get good seats for the shows – last night we all went to the Headliners. Our wine waiter is also very good and always there to top our glasses up as necessary. A good wine waiter is worth a good deal!

Day two and three of my Caribbean Cruise

We are enroute to Madeira. As the Portuguese dockers are on strike. P&O have swapped round Ponta Delgada and Madeira so we will have a full day in Funchal. It’s been very lazy day but that is normal for me on the first full day. Last night was quite bumpy and we were asked to secure any loose items in the cabin. Unfortunatley – having availed myself of the buy 5 – get 1 free 2l bottles of water, there was nowhere really to put them except inside an empty drawer, but then that kept opening and shutting.

This morning was better than the forecast, but Oriana is still pitching with the occasional roll. We are speeding at 22 knots and are three quarters of the way through the BoB. Although very windy, it isn’t cold if you choose the right spot. It’s Smart tonight with the Captain’s Welcome party tomorrow, when the weather is supposed to have improved a lot.

I popped into the Conservatory for some sandwiches at teatime as I had skipped lunch, then sat out for a little before returning to my cabin to get ready for dinner. The dining room is still quite empty but it may be that the weather is keeping some in their cabins.  After dinner three of us went to see the Johnson Brothers in the Theatre Royal. One disadvantage of these new cabins is that they are right over the Pacific Lounge and the noise is carrying up through, but it shouldn’t go on much longer.

The semi formal night (sorry – smart), was very well observed, most people wearing what would have been semi-formal under the old terminology. There is also a distinct lack of wheelchairs and mobility scooters. I appreciate many people need them, but it is so nice not be run down every few moments!

Day 3

En route to Madeira still and the weather has improved dramatically. There are still occasional light showers but the sun is very hot and the seas calmer.  Got up around 8.30 and headed to the Conservatory for breakfast. At the solo coffee morning a few different people turned up and there were around 21 people there. I decided to play in the shuffleboard tournament – the first time I have played in nearly 30 years! My partner and I won the first match but lost the next. Still we should get better as we go on. After a delicious light lunch of dressed crab in its shell and salad I have been sitting on the prom deck up till now but was getting too hot.   It is the Captain’s welcome party tonight so will sort myself out later.

It was a very enjoyable Welcome Party. As I was getting ready there was a knock at the door and a steward with canapés which was lovely. Everyone in the Oriental Restaurant was in the Pacific Lounge for the Party, the Peninsular Restaurant people were in the Crow’s Nest. We were welcomed in by the Deputy Captain, but the Captain joined us all later for his speech – mostly about Hurricane Nadine !!! I chatted to the Front of House Manager who was pleased to see me so she could organise a book signing in a few days time. Then to the Gala Dinner – game terrine, lobster and maple walnut ice cream for me. I want to be up early for the sail into Funchal so have decided on an early night. After Funchal we have five sea days so can relax again then.