Sunday 7 October - St Lucia

I rose at 6.30am so I could watch us sail into St Lucia. The sea was dead calm and there were tiny splashes of white in the sails of yachts in the distance. We entered the harbour and swung 180 degrees to berth close to the airport. It is currently 80 degrees and forecast to reach 90 degrees later.  Phew! I am booked on the Aerial Tram excursion with optional walk through the rainforest after. 

 

Today I have had one of the most magical moments ever! We’ll start with the first.  The tour up to the Sky Rides was through lush countryside awash with fruit – coconut palms, guava, mango and papaya trees, Golden apple and sour orange. At the base we boarded open gondolas holding 8 people and a naturalist guide.

 

We had been pre-warned to wear closed in shoes and I chose trousers and a short-sleeved top as I had lathered myself in Deet. The forest is home to boa constrictors, tarantulas, many birds including parrots and hummingbirds and lots more. We were told the hummingbird favourite colour is red and orange like the flowers on the hibiscus trees. On the way up – just over a mile in length – the tram ran at mid height so we could look at the forest floor, the creeks and trails. At the top it turned round and came back at tree top height and this was when a hummingbird spotted my top which just happened to be green with red and yellow flowers. It was amazing as it hovered about 2 feet in front of me, obviously trying to decide if I was edible. All I could focus on was this tiny vision of blues and greens. So that was my magic moment of the cruise so far and no – I didn’t get a photo as when I moved my hands it disappeared as quickly as it had appeared.

Spot the hummingbird - I did manage to photograph one here.

It was very hot and humid and the aircon in the cabin was heaven. I went to the forward observation deck for sailaway. The Captain sounded the whistle as we neared 5.30 – to remind people after yesterday to get back he said. There was a rum and karaoke bar in the duty free complex and lots of people were still there at 5.20! 

 

Still everyone was back just on time (including our lost souls from yesterday who arrived in St Lucia this am) and we sailed on time to a beautiful sunset and warm evening. However, on the port side, over the mountains a tropical storm provided some free fireworks and entertainment in the form of thunder and spectacular lightning so I missed the Pitons as they were shrouded in cloud.

 

Saturday 6 October – St Maarten

By the time I woke and got up at 6am, we were berthed alongside. As I went up on deck, the air temp was already in the high 20s and by 8.30am was 30C. We have been the only ship in the Caribbean ports so far but on the horizon, Carnival Victory was sailing in and has berthed alongside us.

 

I got ready for my tour – Island sights and semi-submersible, and was on the dockside at 8am, only to be told I had misread the Horizon and was an hour too early!  I wandered up to the town but everything was still shut and it was so hot I returned to the ship and drank another pint of juice and water! So – off to try again! It was a good tour and worth the money. We drove right round the island, both Dutch and French parts, stopping off at a couple of spectacular view points for photos.

 

Then at Grand Case we boarded our boat. On the way out to the reef we saw Booby birds diving for fish. As we neared, we all filed down into the lower part of the hull and sat in twos with long windows on both sides as we reached the reef. There were shoals of coloured fish, turtles, star fish, beautiful pink translucent jellyfish and everywhere waving fronds of different corals.  A diver went down and held fish food to attract more fish close to us. It was magical.

 

Back on dry land we drove to Marigot (passing three chameleons sitting on a wall)  – the French capital where a Saturday market was in full swing – all manner of local fruits, sugar cane, coconut smoothies etc. as well as clothing.

 

Then back to the port where I pottered round a few of the jewellery shops, but left before temptation got the better of me. By then it was extremely hot and quite humid so lazed on deck the rest of the afternoon. Every single shady corner of the ship was packed while the open decks were empty! We sailed from St Maarten at 4.30, whereas before it had been 5.30. This is why we think we are 4 pax short tonight.  Several announcements were made and the captain waited 20 mins, before I watched the Passenger Services Manager hand their passports to the port agents and we left!  I can only imagine how they are going to feel to see Oriana in the distance. The best time of the day is around 5.30 as first sitting pax head in to change, the sun is setting and the temperature is perfect. There were flying fish near the bow and islands all around us.  

 

Friday 4 October Tortola

We arrived at dawn and once again were the only ship in port. I was on a tour to see the main sights – The Best of Tortola. I boarded the usual Caribbean style bus – open sided, very high steps and bench seats. 

 

We first drove through the town as the children were going to school. Everyone of them looked very smart in their uniforms and most said hello very politely as we waited at one of the three traffic lights on the island. You do NOT want to do this tour if you do not like heights. We drove up what seemed like 1 in 3 roads and round hairpin bends to Great Mountain for stunning views of all the surrounding islands, as well as the ship.

 

Next stop was Cane Garden Bay. Here we were able to walk along the beach, paddle or just sit and absorb the warmth and scenery. There were artists’ workshops and the usual souvenirs as well.  Then up and down some more hair-raising roads, past Carrot Bay etc to the famous Pusser’s Landing and another rum punch!  We had an hour here which I felt was ample. It is very touristy with expensive shops and not a great deal to see or do besides admire the floating real estate! 



Cane Garden Bay

We then drove along the coast road back to Road Town, past the mangroves which are being planted to help stop coastal erosion, especially during hurricanes. Some of us got off the bus at the big market before wandering back to the ship.

Pusser's Landing

The day was a lot less humid than Antigua and there was a welcome breeze.  Tortola appeared to be a more affluent isalnd than Antigua to me. I spent the afternoon dozing in the shade on deck. Sailaway was delightful in the late afternoon sun, and those of us on the Observation deck spotted a turtle swimming close to the ship, as pelicans dived for the fish we disturbed! 

Day 10 - Landfall

Thursday 3 October Antigua

We arrived to a heavy rain shower but it soon cleared. It was wonderful to see the huge Frigate birds circling the ship and nicking food from the terns as pelicans skimmed over the water in the harbour.

I had chosen the Highlights of Antigua and Lobster Lunch tour. We walked along the boardwalk past the excursion catamarans and boarded a very smart minibus with aircon (Yeh!) and toured most of the island, including Block House Ruins, Shirley Heights and stopped for views over Falmouth and English harbours, before going to Nelsons Dockyard for our lunch.




Falmouth & English Harbours

There had been a few showers as we toured and at Nelsons Dockyard we could hear thunder rumbling in the distance but after a brief light shower we had sunshine the rest of the day. The lunch was buffet style – green salad, mango or guava dressing, Caribbean style rice, banana fritters and steamed veggies with Rum Punch (151% proof!).

It was fascinating seeing the real island life in the interior with its rich fruit plantations – guava, mango, banana (called fig here) etc. After lunch we went to Turner Beach where we had about one and a half hours to swim, sunbathe etc.

By now the sun was out in ernest and it was the perfect Caribbean beach – white sand, blue sea, palm trees, umbrellas, etc. I was particularly interested in the wildlife, especially the birds such as Wilson's Plover. In the sand were small holes and now and again a small crab peeped out! Inland we also saw geckos and mongooses. We got back to the dock at 4.30 and I stayed on deck for the sailaway.

The sun was setting and the town looking beautiful bathed in the golden light as pelicans dived in our wash for the fish we disturbed. We are now sailing for Tortola.

Day 9 - en route to Antigua

Day 9 – en route to Antigua  3 October 2012

8am and it was 29 degrees!  Our world is blue – ocean blue, sky blue and turquoise wake, each intensified by contrasting white of fluffy clouds and foam from the wash.

 

I have seen just one ship during our crossing, and that was several days ago.  On the 360 degree horizon there is just water with Oriana at the centre. Today I saw our first sea bird since Madeira – a flash of white against the blue of the sky. Comparatively few people experience transatlantic passages and I feel privileged to be one of them – they are truly different from normal cruising, which will resume tomorrow when we reach Antigua. There was a dramatic storm last night. I woke around 4am to a rattling sound. Although I am in an inside cabin, the left hand side is superstructure out onto open deck and the rain was so torrential it was beating against it. I heard the thunder and switched on the bridgecam on my cabin TV to see great flashes of lightning. I couldn’t resist getting up and peeping out of my cabin door through the glass door next to my cabin that leads out onto the Terrace Deck to watch. It certainly cleared the air this morning, although everyone woke to a new problem. One of the engines had shot out black soot all over the aft decks which had to be cleared and cleaned.

The Peninsular lunch was at noon. There were not that many people there, nor at the Ligurian and Baltic one which was yesterday.  I was on a table for 8 with the Accommodation Services Manager, who was very entertaining, as was everyone on the table. I now feel overly stuffed and too hot and have returned to my cabin to rest and cool down. It is our last formal night tonight until we start our return journey on Tuesday.

Days 7 - 8 Mid Atlantic

Day 7-  mid Atlantic

I guess these reports are starting to sound boring for anyone who has yet to cruise or doesn’t like sea days! We are three days into our crossing with two more to go to reach Antigua and at the noon announcement were halfway across, steaming at around 19 knots with the ship on track pilot (Auto pilot). Everyone is settling into shipboard routine. At breakfast this morning, which I took outside as usual (fresh mango and pineapple,) it was already 76 degrees.

 

At noon it was into the higher 80s. I haven’t done much today aside from the travelling alone meeting, as I had a book signing at 10am. This went very well and I have another to do on the way home again. I then just lazed in the shade of the prom deck with my book in between watching the flying fish leap in our bow wash.

 

These hot leisurely days are bliss after the stressful days at work of late.  The invitations have come for the Caribbean lunch which is in 2 days’ time.  I was interested to hear from another pax that there will not a video of this cruise. I don’t usually buy them so hadn’t noticed, but apparently it is because only 4 photographers are on board and there need to be 5 for a video?? Not sure how true that is though.   

Day 8 Mid Atlantic

It has been very hot today, and although the sun came out in the middle of the day, the afternoon has been hot and sultry until now. I am sitting in the shade of the promenade deck as I type this. I have been reading most of the day since the book I brought with me I have found gripping. It is called The Help and in fact the film is showing tonight on the ship. It is about civil rights in Mississippi in the early 1960s. A great read. It is semi formal tonight…sorry Smart! ..so I will be off for my fourth shower of the day!  I have to say it has been very hot – I get up shower, have breakfast, play shuffleboard, shower, read, have lunch, shower….. so much for conserving water on board. I guess the ship is having to make large quantities as we go. The Captain wandered round the decks chatting this morning. There have been three weddings on board so far so I guess he has been very busy. There have been a good few steamer chair hoggers today!

Because of my spa appointment and then shuffleboard it was 11am before I reached the decks, and by then every chair on the prom. deck was either occupied or had a book and towel occupant!  It was 4pm before I got a free one!  On the other hand it you are happy with the normal sunbeds there are plenty around and also the reclining chairs that I like, both teak and white plastic. One more sea day to go until Antigua. I guess it’s going to get hotter yet!

Day 5 at sea en route to Antigua

Now we are into proper cruising weather! The day dawned sunny and clear. By an hour later the sea was the deepest blue I have ever seen and the sky just a few shades lighter with puffs of cotton wool along the horizon. After breakfast outdoors I sat out for a while before heading up to the sun deck to play in the shuffleboard tournament. Uhmm – all I can say is we lost in the first round! Still – plenty more days to play yet. Then I pottered round the ship, set up two book signings over the course of the cruise and after a salad lunch have been sitting on the prom deck, firstly to catch the sun, but latterly in the shade as it was too hot! I am now sitting typing this on the teak tables aft on the prom deck. The new stern deck round the Terrace Pool is lovely with slightly higher sun beds and a bar but you need to get a spot early in the day. It should also be nice in the evenings when we get to the Caribbean .

 

Another lovely dinner, preceded by cabin canapés and the Peninsular Club half bottle of Lanson Champagne! Then went to listen to the classical guitarist in the Crows Nest before stepping out onto the stern deck for some air before bed. It is the most beautiful evening out – calm seas, a gently rippling wake visible in the moonlight and warm balmy air. Although I have done several northern-route crossings, it completely escaped my mind that we would similarly gain an hour a day on the way to the Caribbean – doh! Still, all this fresh air and heat has made me sleepy for bed.  More tomorrow I hope. 

PS: - another slight but welcome change is that at dinner we not only get butter pats but a small dish of olive tapenade or hummus etc. It is delicious on the bread rolls!

 

Day 6 at sea

The day dawned a bit cloudy with occasional showers, so after breakfast on deck I decided to go to the church service. Then, a lazy time reading in the sun before a late lunch and the shuffleboard competition. I must be getting better since I made the semi-finals before being knocked out.

 

Tonight is smart so I am sipping my Peninsular Champagne from last evening as I get ready in the cabin.