The wonderful Adriatic - Part 1

Oh dear - yet again time has run away with me and I am very late posting my cruise blog of Oriana in the Adriatic. There are two reasons for this - firstly I seriously underestimated the degree of preparation required for the world cruise, and secondly I was testing out some new (to me) technology and instead of typing up my blog as I went, I dictated it all and it has taken me a while to get round to transcribing it.
 
So, with apologies for my tardiness - here is part 1 of Oriana's cruise through the Mediterranean to the Adriatic. I chose this itinerary as I love the area, but more importantly there were four ports that were totally new to me - Corigliano Calabro, Trieste, Zadar and Kotor.

 
Monday 3 October 2016
It was a dry sunny morning with little breeze. Our car came for us at 11:30 and we were soon at Mayflower terminal. We were checked in immediately and given grey K cards which meant a short wait until embarkation. We boarded and were directed to the Oriental restaurant for a buffet and free champagne. By the time we had drunk and eaten our fill, the cabins were ready and we found most of our luggage had arrived so started to unpack. The space is not brilliant in these new cabins with back to front wardrobes and just four drawers. By the time we had finished it was time for muster after which we went out on deck for sail away. We thrust of the berth heading up to the Upper Swinging Ground to turn 180° and sail back past Aida Prima, exchanging a whistle salute and then proceeding down the western Channel past the Needles.

 

Tuesday 4 – Wednesday 5 October – at sea

We have two sea days to relax before our first port. These were spent mainly lazing around. I made a couple of spa appointments but as the first day was not really good enough to go outside,  I did three quizzes; the theme quiz in the morning, the battle of the sexes and the individual quiz, as well as the syndicate quiz later that evening. Our passage through the Bay of Biscay was slightly bumpy with 3m swells causing a slight pitching. We had lunch in the main dining room as the buffet was very busy due to the early cruise norovirus precautions.  

On the second day I passed the time much as the first day, although the weather was improving. The sea was beautiful and the skies were clearer as we took on a more southerly heading down the coast of Portugal at a smooth 20kts. I spent most of it outdoors stopping to have lunch in the buffet  again outdoors on the back deck around 3pm. Late in the afternoon we came in and started to change for the first formal night and the captain's welcome aboard party. Our time was at 8.15 in the Crow’s Nest. My friend decided to eat before the party while I waited till afterwards as I had my hair done.

Thursday 6 October – Cadiz
 
The morning dawned sunny, with temps up to 21°C. Having been to Cadiz many times before, we were booked on a tour to Jerez. We had breakfast in the conservatory just as the Costa Favolosa arrived, a ship I had never seen before - so it was out to take photos.

Oceania’s Marina was also berthed ahead of us and when we returned later Thomson Spirit was also in dock. It was a half-hour drive to Jerez over the new bridge – I had only ever seen it in a state of construction before! As we crossed over we could just see Disney Wonder in the dry dock. In Jerez we were dropped off in the main square and first headed towards the cathedral but found the Alcazar first. We spent a lovely hour or so exploring the gardens, ruins, old mosque and the Alcazar buildings.

Then we decided to head for the cathedral past the Gonzales Byass bodega. The cathedral was beautiful and housed the most amazing nativity scene! There were lots of steps and sloping streets down to the road as we gradually worked our way back towards the meeting point outside the information bureau. We stopped off at a small cafe for a snack - a rather strange vegetarian sandwich (which was a bit like two pieces of bread with an omelette in the middle with lettuce), a cold drink and of course the obligatory glass of sherry - a bargain at just €1.20.

 

 

 

 

By the time everyone was back at the meeting point we walked back to the coach and half an hour later were back in Cadiz. My friend decided to dash back into town to buy some sherry while I returned on board and had a quick snack - not that I needed it after the sandwich – then sat on deck watching the other ships and the two little catamarans that ferried people to from Cadiz beaches. We were the first ship to leave so there was no great sounding of horns, just us warming little yachts that we were in coming through and they were in our way. That evening we did our usual -  we managed to do two shows which was the whole point about having freedom dining - before the syndicate quiz and bed.
 

Friday 7 - Saturday 8 October – at sea

Two more sunny, clear days with little wind, as we sailed east through the Alboran  and Mediterranean Seas towards Sicily. We were a bit late getting up the first of these days and as I was sitting on deck I spotted in the Horizon newspaper that there was a special Captain’s Sail Away from Calabro Corigliano. I managed to book it very quickly and was wondering what to do for my friend when she walked into the cabin and fortunately managed to book the last place. The morning was spent out on deck; the afternoon dolphin spotting on the prom deck. Around 3pm I was just beginning to wonder what time I had booked a pedicure for and felt I'd better go and check – It was for 3pm! My feet now look lovely.

At 13:24 on a October Friday afternoon at home I probably have been having lunch or doing housework. As it was I was sitting in the warm sun on the promenade deck staring hopefully is a calm blue-grey ocean: hopefully in case I spotted dolphins or better still a whale or two. It was a perfect day for spotting sea creatures. When the sea has white caps they create darkened patches and it’s easy to confuse them for dolphins.  As it was they would easily be spotted if looking in the right direction. For me, dolphins exhibit such joy and exuberance.  For their part, I am convinced they see a cruise ship and start to “play” with it, showing off. On one memorable occasion two surfaced near the side of the ships and leapt towards each other, passing in mid air like a maritime Red Arrows display! We did eventually see some playing in the wake and swimming alongside the ship. I also saw one or two turtles, which rather surprised me as, in my ignorance, I didn’t realise turtles could be found in the Mediterranean. As the sun sank lower in the sky we came in to change for dinner.  We watched two shows that night - one of the special Music Festival at Sea ones as well as a Headliners show. Did the usual Syndicate Quiz, then bed. 

The next day we managed to get up a little earlier and had breakfast before going to the solos meet after which of course it was back out on deck for me as it was yet another beautiful day - a little breezier but still warm and sunny. The sea was choppier in the morning so not so easy for dolphin spotting but grew calmer and glassier as the day wore on.  We met up with each other for lunch out on the terrace deck but otherwise it was a day spent lazing around enjoying the open air, the lovely sea breezes and warm sunshine.

 

Managed to get ready to go down to Anderson's for a drink at about 7 and eat at 7:30 on a table for four with a couple we had previously eaten dinner with earlier in the cruise. We are now in the cabin as we have an hour's break between seeing the end of the Tom O’Connor show and the syndicate quiz but we only got 13/20 so not doing very well.

 Sunday 9 October – Catania

We arrived to a glorious sunny morning in Sicily with Etna looming over the old city of Catania.

After breakfast we went out onto the terrace deck.  One of the crew had left the back door out onto the deck wedged open and a little thrush that had been hopping around the ship for the last two or three days, decided he wanted to explore inside as well as the external decks. I dashed round the other way grabbing a towel off the steward’s trolley and tried to head him off but he managed to make it as far as Chaplin’s Cinema before a crewmember frightened him and he flew off back the way he had come. I got off the ship at Deck 4 gangway ready for my tour - a 1½ hour scenic drive to Mount Etna. I boarded the coach with some difficulty as the seat backs kept coming back and then got a horrible attack of cramp in my calf so had to stand as best I could until it went away. We drove through small towns and villages, such as Nicolosi, climbing ever higher to the Silvestri Crater. We saw several different phases of lava flows including a house that was almost completely buried. At the top it was very windy and quite slippery with the loose ash on the lava. Two people fell over but fortunately I was okay. I wandered around taking a photo of a man with a goat, selling little ladybirds on rocks of lava. For some reason real ladybirds were everywhere on the barren ground.

I also browsed the souvenir shops and walked to a little grotto that had been set up in a natural cave formed by lava. We had just over an hour at the crater before it was time to return to the coach and head back downwards. The tour concluded with a drive around the old part of the city before returning to the ship.

Berthed opposite Oriana was the Greenpeace vessel - Rainbow Warrior - which was open for visitors for the day.  My friend's tour returned about 3:30. We had a bite to eat and just sat around on deck in the warm sun until sailaway at 6:00, although this was delayed half an hour by a late-returning tour.  We stayed until we sailed and then went in to change for this casual night. Tonight we felt there was no real entertainment we wanted to watch so were able to take our time and I washed my hair. We had dinner and went to bed – it was nice to have an early night finally and we skipped the syndicate quiz.

Monday 10 October – Corigliano Calabro

We made our approach to Corigliano Calabro is the early hours, berthing at 8am. This was a new port to me and had replaced Crotone due to low water levels there.  Woke up at 5am to a call for a First Assessment Party through the tannoy to a potential fire on deck 13 in the ACU. It was soon stood down. Apparently it was some cooking smells or gas that had reached one of the fan intakes. Our alarms were set for 7:30. The weather looked rather miserable with very black skies and even a flash or two of lightning. This port is a big unknown to everybody because it is only the second call here for P&O We decided not to do a tour but to take the shuttle bus into the town and explore on our own. 
 

We took the free shuttle bus which drove between the low-lying fields full of groves of oranges, pomegranates and lemons, and gradually wound up the mountainside and we could see this little hilltop town of Corigliano Colabro. It was as described; little narrow roads, single track for traffic with a one way system, cobbles underfoot, steps and steep alleyways. As the shuttle bus arrived, the mini shuttle for the castle was waiting, so for 2 Euros we bought return tickets. We drove up yet more narrow streets, barely squeezing through, till we arrived at the castle. The views from the top were utterly stunning -  sunlight shining on the mountains in the distance;  the agricultural fields spreading into the distance, Oriana at her berth just visible.

We walked around the castle which was lovely, even getting free Churros freshly-baked by a village woman.  Eventually I left my  friend with free Internet and I walked back down.

Then I heard people saying that the last shuttle down was at 12 o'clock – it was then 10 to 12! I tried to phone her when she arrived and we both went back down to the centre of town together.

We then walked up to the cathedral and then after a look inside I left her to explore the town further while I returned to Oriana, firstly stopping at the stalls at the quayside to buy some local bergamot liqueur, and then had a light lunch. I changed into something more suitable for the sun that had finally come out and spent a lovely afternoon lying in the sun on the stern deck, watching the lighting change over the distant hilltop towns. About 4 o'clock I decided to come in and shower as we were due to attend the sailaway in the Captain's Day room and front balcony. We arrived in reception at 5:30 as requested, and were escorted up to Deck 9 and taken through to the captain’s lounge. There was a fabulous forward view with a balcony the full width of the ship. We were served delicious canapés – salmon, chicken tikka, Coronation chicken, cheeses and so on. The drink was very free-flowing: we were greeted with a glass of Prosecco, followed by our choices of cocktails such as a spiced rum, Pimms No.2 and Blue Lagoon. By about 7 o'clock we decided we had better leave and go in for dinner. After dinner we tried to catch the end of the Headliner’s show but I couldn't stand and there were no seats so I sat out on the Promenade deck in the lovely balmy evening. Later we went to the classical concert and then to the syndicate quiz, where we got our, by now normal, score of 13/20. 

Tuesday 11 October – at sea

The weather was changing as we now sailed around the heel of Italy into the Adriatic. It was a sea day thankfully and lovely to lie in till about 9 when we got up and had a quick breakfast before the solos meet at 9:45. I hung around chatting then had to attend a safety briefing for those with mobility issues. This really just explained what P&O expected people to be able to do independently - step up 6 to 8 inches and step across 18 inches to get into tenders safely. They don’t mind steadying people but won’t carry or lift.  After that I priced up a two-night cruise on Oriana post-refit (would love to see what has been done, but decided against it) and then popped round the shops as I hadn't really been round them at all this cruise. Very disappointing to see no Oriana mugs or proper souvenirs and no logo clothing at all. 
I tried to sit outdoors but it was really cold with an icy wind today. It is definitely getting colder as we head north up the Adriatic towards Venice. Met up with my friend for lunch and we still managed to eat outdoors as it is sheltered at the rear of the Terrace Deck. Afterwards I went back to the cabin while she went to play quoits. It was a very lazy afternoon as I had a doze for around an hour, did my nails for tonight's formal night and watched port talks on the TV.

We managed to get ready for dinner and have a drink in Anderson's before going into the Oriental restaurant for around 7:30. We then went to Harlequins to watch the dancing for around an hour and had a cocktail. Today the embargo was lifted on the norovirus precautions so there were more officers around the ship socialising a bit more. I didn't really feel like the syndicate quiz as we will have to be up early for Verona tomorrow so got ready for bed and packed my bag ready for an early start.

Wednesday 12 October – Venice

Oriana arrived at the pilot station at 4.30am and just past the breakwaters took on a tug fore and aft to assist in manoeuvring through the Venetian Lagoon and up the Guidecca Canal to the cruise terminal. We woke up around 6:30 to find we had already berthed in Venice so there was no opportunity to watch the sail in, although it was dark in any event. Apparently the pilots had brought it forward half an hour so everyone would have missed passing St Mark's Square. As I have been here three times previously I didn’t mind too much but felt sorry for those on their first visit.  We were berthed on the far side of the second terminal, where I have never been before. In the main berths were Oceana, Norwegian Spirit and Brilliance of the Seas. It will be good to see them sail if we are able.

We have booked a tour to Verona today, to see more of the area of Italy. We had breakfast and then met in the theatre where we had to wait a short time before being led down to Deck 7 to disembark. We boarded the coach for a lovely drive through the Italian countryside. It was about a 1½ hour  drive, past the vineyards of Soave, and villages and castles with medieval-looking bell- towers and turrets.

Verona is a beautiful town, a little like Venice without the canals. We were given a short drive round before we were dropped off and then had a ½ hour walk Via Manzini.

We then had around three hours to explore independently. We wandered round the large square and entered the Roman amphitheatre – a smaller version of the Colosseum in Rome – still in use and then set up for opera and shows. Then up the Via Manzini to the Piazza delle Erbe. This is a beautiful square surrounded by ancient buildings, with a market in the middle, where I bought a couple of pairs of Murano earrings - one for me and one as a gift.  Having walked right round the square, we followed the street up to Juliet's balcony where we took a few photos. It was very crowded and we didn't bother with the 7 Euro entry fee into Juliet's house. Making our way back to the Piazza delle Erbe, my friend decided she wanted to go and view some arches so we separated and I wandered back to the Piazza Bra and the Roman Arena.

We had to meet up at 13:50 so I worked my way round the square. It was hot and sunny so I went for a lovely gelato ice cream with scoops of vanilla, coffee and pistachio.  Of course I made a real mess of myself as it began to melt and drip down my front in the warm sun. Slowly, we all reassembled and were led back to the coach by the river again. Before heading back down the motorway we went for a little tour around the more modern parts of Verona. I would love to come back and spend more time here. I dozed off for part of the drive back. Back on board we dumped our bags in the cabin and went up for a bite to eat in the Conservatory. My knees are quite sore as, disembarking this morning we had a very short, very steep, slippery gangway and I had trouble negotiating it, in fact they sent a crew member to help me. My friend popped back ashore to take some more photos of the other ships while I had a rest before we changed for dinner as we want to be out on deck for our sailing at 10pm. We made it out on time, first watching Brilliance of the Seas leave ahead of us. Then it was our turn, the two tugs making fast fore and aft to prevent any potential accidents! Venice is very different at night; people walking the canalsides, the vaporettos busily nipping round us taking people home or out for dinner. Many of the buildings are floodlit, making the water appear black and mysterious. We stayed on deck until the tugs left us at the entrance to the lagoon and went to bed.