The wonderful Adriatic - part 2

Thursday 13 October – Trieste

A cloudy grey morning greeted us in Trieste – another place I had never before visited.  I can see why, since the berth was barely long enough for Oriana at 261m and her bow appeared to loom over the town in a fashion resembling the film  Speed: Cruise Control!

 The weather looked a little threatening but in fact it was fine all day although very cloudy and not too hot thankfully. I didn't realise Trieste was so hilly! We started off in the main square taking some photos, then we headed off the direction of the cathedral via a supermarket and the Roman theatre and then headed up to the Chiesa del Santa Maria Maggiore.

The streets from then on got steeper and steeper until we finally made it to the lovely Byzantine cathedral and castle right on the top overlooking Trieste city. I have to say I was concerned about getting back down again having made it up but with the help of friendly locals we managed to find sloping roads rather than the many steps. 

At one point we had to wait, as they were filming a scene set in a fabric shop!  I have to say I'm not really taken with Trieste.  there are lots of very grand buildings but I can't feel its soul or see any areas of particular beauty. As we came out from the castle and cathedral we walked back down to the arcade we first found when we left the ship and had a snack and cake with a local spritz. I left my friend there with the free Wi-Fi and headed up to the Greek Orthodox Church which sadly was locked, and then to the Grand Canal.

By then I'd had enough and headed back to the ship along the seafront.  Early this morning at breakfast we had spotted in the distance a white sailing ship coming in. It was Sea Cloud, which is now berthed next to Oriana, looking very spruce.

Friday 14 October – Zadar

Strong winds overnight along with drizzling rain, cleared as we berthed in Zadar in Croatia – my third new port this cruise.  We woke just as we were manoeuvring into the berth, a mile or so out from the old town. We went up to have breakfast and spotted another cruise ship arriving – Aida Bella, so we waited until she had moored taking photographs the whole time. 
 

After we had taken Aida Bella photos and eaten, we got ready and caught the shuttle bus for the 15 to 20 minute drive into the main old town across on the isthmus.  We were dropped of near the sun sculpture and the sea organ which was playing beautifully. It is quite mesmerising as the waves cause music to emerge out of the underwater pipes - it sounds a little like whale song. We headed along the promenade and then in and out of the old streets. There were lots of churches, a Roman Forum, bell towers and a few shops.

 

I bought a striking silver ring set with aquamarine but had to wait an hour for it to be resized. We found an outdoor café and had a coffee. It was next to the cathedral which was being prepared for a wedding at 4:30 that day with lovely white muslin draped along the pew ends. We also passed a small house with an archway which was also decorated in white net and I guess that might be the home of the bride. She will have a very short walk to the cathedral. Although the day started off grey and misty with a light drizzle, the sun started to come out and about 2.30 I had decided my knees and back had had enough and walked back to catch the shuttle bus to Oriana.  

We were on deck for sailaway, staying until we had passed the town and the Sea Organ, before going in to change for dinner. Went to bed after dinner.

Saturday 15 October – Kotor

Apparently there was a very bad storm with Force 9 winds overnight but slept through it. The next morning we woke up to the Captain’s commentary when we were already halfway up the 16nm long fjord but were in time to see the best part.

This was going to be our only tender port – and as we neared the town, the reason why was revealed – three other cruise ships. As soon as we dropped anchor we went up for breakfast and took photos of MSC Orchestra, already anchored. While we were having breakfast, Silver Wind slipped past us into berth followed later by Athena, a Grand Circle Cruise Line ship. 

We went to get tender tickets at 10:30 and had about a 40 minute wait but we were ashore by 11:30, which wasn't too bad as it was about a half-hour run ashore. There were lots of guides trying to sell us tours into the surrounding mountains but we wanted to see the town itself as it our first time here.

 

As we wandered over to the main town gate we were astounded at the beauty of this little hidden historic port. It was very much like a miniature Dubrovnik; large squares linked by narrow flagged alleyways and arches. So of the town walls were intact but I declined to walk along them, preferring the town centre with it many souvenir, art and craft shops selling beautiful filigree jewellery and pottery, which was very distinctive.

We wandered around following the town walls towards the back of the town under the towering mountain. The Roman Catholic Cathedral was striking and newly cleaned. We paid the €2.50 entrance fee and meandered around the aisles and chapels. I bought a small icon souvenir on a piece of wood. We then walked round a little more, stopping for pancakes with ice cream in the open air. 

Afterwards we continued exploring, pausing to talk to the many local cats – apparently they are the symbol of Kotor. We carried on round ending up at one of the far town gates, where a little family of cats were living by some bins. There was a pretty little black and white one I was talking to, trying to raid a skip! He looked longingly as if he wanted to be stroked but couldn't quite pluck up the courage. As we came back onto the main promenade and Marina area we walked through the fruit and veg market where traders kept offering us samples of dried figs, hazelnuts, walnuts, pecan nuts and so on. There was a basket with a beautiful large white rabbit and two tiny baby rabbits. I just hope they weren’t for someone’s stew that night.

We walked back in through the main gate again and this time took a different direction turning left instead of straight on and found more quaint little alleyways, ending up at the beautiful Eastern Orthodox Church.  The peace and tranquillity hit you as we entered. There was a heady fragrance of frankincense and quiet choral music was playing. The interior was resplendent in the reds and golds of the icons, lit by candlelight. I was entranced, although I know Caryll doesn't like it. Opposite in the square was another tiny little Eastern Orthodox Church equally beautiful, in fact more so in many ways. The side chapel had a wonderful painted iconostasis. By then I was getting a bit tired so I decided to return to the tender port whilst Caryll went back looking for some pottery she had spotted earlier. I walked back across the main square, picking up a map as I went. AS I walked past Silver Wind and Athena again, coaches were just arriving back so I quickened my step to join the tender queue before they got off. I waited about 10 minutes and it began to rain, although not too much, Then the queue began to move. We were using four of the ship's tenders and two shore tenders, although I believe one ships tender had broken down.  While we waited I studied Silver Wind and Athena quite closely. Last time I had seen a GCCL ship was in Antarctica. Once of the tender it was a good half-hour ride back to Oriana who'd stayed her mooring. MSC Orchestra had left at 1 o'clock sailing past Oriana. Once back on board I sorted myself out and as Caryll joined me we went up to the conservatory fortnight to eat. The rain appeared to have set in however we came back down for our cameras and sat out on the back deck for sail away. The boats back in their davits, the anchor was raised, and we turned 180° to leave beautiful Kotor.  The sail down the fjord was stunning, or would have been in better weather. Even so,  dusk was falling and lights were on, and some of the many churches were floodlit so it was very beautiful. Silver Wind was following us down the fjord.

We came in and got changed and showered and I went and had a martini cocktail. Then in to dinner. It was a rather strange table with a nice couple I had met before, a couple at the end who were a bit far away to chat to, and a dreadful woman who contradicted everything that one said; she hated everything - the food etc. After dinner, by leaving slightly early, we managed to make the Viennese Waltz concert by the Rubin Quartet. After that I returned to the cabin to get ready for bed and for tomorrow when we are in Corfu.

Sunday 16 October – Corfu

It was a very changeable day in Corfu. We arrived to sunny skies but with clouds looming on the horizon.  It was still fairly warm though at 19°C. Got dressed and popped out onto the stern deck to check the temperature and noticed we were in good company!  Silver Spirit was berthed stern to stern with us and Regent Seven Seas Explorer on our port side. She is their newest ship and advertised as the most luxurious ship afloat!

When we got the port shuttle to the terminal I also saw that Silver Wind had followed us all the way from Kotor. We had a leisurely breakfast and got off about 10 o'clock. We got the port shuttle to the cruise terminal and then decided to try the Corfu Hop on Hop off bus which we hadn’t done before. It was €11.50 each which was down from the usual €15 each. We were told there were four stops – the port, the old town a hotel and the Mouse Island viewpoint. As it turned out there was only one at the other end and it still entailed a 10 to 15 minute hike uphill to the area to look out over Mouse Island and its monastery.

There were some tiny kittens with their mum so we took some photos of those as well as the obvious view and airport. Then we hiked back to the hoho off bus and got off at the old town. If we had realised what a long walk it was to from the cruise terminal to the initial pickup point and then just the one stop we certainly wouldn't have bothered as we considered it was the worst value ho-ho bus ever. Once into the old town we browsed some of the shops before sitting and having a beer. 

I just happened to glance up see the very black sky that was sweeping over the blue. I thought we ought to make our way back to the shuttle, although my friend wasn’t too keen.  We went into one more shop to get some presents for people back home- olive oil soaps, baklava etc. the my friend decided to stay behind a bit longer but I felt that I had enough. As I joined the queue for the P&O shuttle there was a great fork of lightning and rolls of thunder and it started to rain really heavily. I managed to squeeze on as the last person on the first shuttle bus and we drove back through the lightning and thunder in the storm. The white ships looked very dramatic and I would have loved to take a photo but no way was I getting off the shuttle in that storm. We got off and hurried through the terminal to the port shuttle that took us virtually to our gangway. I still got drenched however between me getting off the bus and getting onto the ship. I then dripped my way to the cabin to strip off and get dry and go for some lunch.   

After I had washed my hair and had a rest, my cabin mate came back absolutely drenched as well, not only on top but because she had to paddle through the flooding. Once we’d dried out we went up to have a cup of tea and watch the sail away. By 5:30 the sun was shining again and there was clear blue sky. It was an amazing sailaway with passengers on both Silver Spirit and Explorer joining in and dancing away to YMCA. We stayed out on deck until 6:30 with drinks as it was such a beautiful evening, only coming in to prepare for dinner.  We had a nice dinner and then went to the shows.  I finally rejoined the syndicate quiz when we came second.

Monday 17 – Tuesday 18 October – at sea

Two warm and mostly sunny days at sea as we headed back westwards towards home and such a relief after five ports in a row. The weather was absolutely glorious so after breakfast I sat out on the prom back until about 11:15 when I went indoors to change for the Peninsular Club Baltic lunch. We were seated on Table 20 with the production manager Dee. It was a good meal and good company. Afterwards I changed into a sundress and sat out in the sun until late afternoon again. It was wonderful to thaw out in the lovely warmth. It was a formal night so at 4 o'clock I went to have my hair put up - the first time I've done this for years since it has never been long enough until now. I returned to the cabin and changed into a black top and silver skirt then went to watch Maria King. Then an early dinner and watch some of the dancing until it was time for the syndicate quiz.  We were getting a little worried whilst in Anderson's because everybody seemed to be dressed in black and white and Harlequins was decorated in black and white balloons. But we checked with an entertainment officer and he told us it definitely was not black and white night. We didn't do too well in the syndicate quiz after which we went to bed.

The second of our sea days between Corfu and Gibraltar was not so nice. I managed to sit out on the prom back a little after breakfast but it was windy although still warm. I soon came in again as it was too windy for comfort so browsed through the shops and went to buy some raffle tickets for the Macmillan raffle this afternoon. I was having lunch out on the stern deck when a friend joined me and stayed with me for most of the afternoon until after the raffle. We spotted some more dolphins in the wake this afternoon - two little groups of around three or four joyfully leaping about in the waves. We’ve also got our little robin back, flying round the stern decks. Perhaps he is hitching a ride back to Spain from where he came! Sadly it started to pour with rain so the raffle was moved from the Riviera deck to inside the Crow’s Nest. I didn't win anything as usual and I wasn't prepared to bid £110 for the chart of the cruise, which is around the average price they fetch now. There were two P&O books on offer but they weren’t mine! They were the 150th anniversary books. I then returned to the cabin and had a nap as we needed to eat early if we wanted to watch the Merry Widow and do the syndicate quiz.

Wednesday 19 October – Gibraltar

We woke up at 7:30 to see the lights of Gibraltar in the distance and by the we had berthed we were up on deck ready to have breakfast before going ashore. As we came out of the lift into the Conservatory, the robin had managed to find its way inside and was fluttering on the stairs. One of the officers went to fetch a towel and try and catch him. I think it worked as we didn't see him again inside but we did see him the next day flying around the deck so must be okay. The weather forecast wasn’t brilliant but it was warm so we felt able to go ashore in T-shirt and skirt and sandals.  The queue was so long for the shuttle buses that we decided to walk. We left the ship about 9:20 and were in the town by 10, passing some of the supermarkets. We wanted to buy some chocolates for our steward but would do that on way back. We had a browse up to M&S and had a look around. I bought a rose red silk top.

We then made my way back to Casemates Square and the ship.  As I was walking back I was checking the alcohol prices but they all seemed much of a muchness and not that much better than the ship’s so decided to wait until we were back into the duty-free port shops. As we nearing Oriana we noticed Magellan was just berthing next to her.  It was the first time I had seen her as Magellan. I already have photos of her as Grand Holiday in Barcelona.

In the duty-free outlets I bought a litre of Beefeater gin at £7 which I thought pretty good going. I went back on board, had a quick change as it was very hot and humid, and then popped out on the Terrace deck for a sandwich and a drink. Caryll soon joined me a she had been browsing the duty-free and joined he queue after me. We took some more photos of Magellan from the upper decks and then listened to the Great British Sailaway, which along with the usual songs also had the opera singers joining in, singing Jerusalem, Land of Hope and Glory and God save the Queen. Not really my cup of tea but good in a way.

We were late departing as the captain came on the tannoy and said instead of leaving 1pm it would have to be it 2pm as we were still refuelling. Around 2.30pm we eventually slipped timelines and headed out through Gibraltar Bay towards the Atlantic and home. We had hoped for a glimpse of Arcadia, which was at Ceuta today but no luck. The captain said that as we were both coming home together we’d probably see each other on and off throughout the next days, but Oriana being the fastest ship in the fleet, had soon left her well behind. I sat on deck in the warm afternoon sun hoping for a glimpse of dolphins but nothing. Went in to change and see the 7.30 crew show – brilliant – then had dinner followed by a drink before the syndicate quiz. Again we seem to get stuck at 13 or 14 points. Went to bed

Thursday 20 – Friday 21 October – at sea

This is our last but one full day at sea. The weather is now getting cold and grey and threatening rain, although there were some very bright sunny intervals. It is also getting noticeably windier. At breakfast there was the most beautiful sunrise and then couple of pods of dolphins appeared, playing in the water right below our table - total magic. A lady on our large table also said it made her day as she hadn’t seen any till then. It was then pretty much a lazy day, alternating between sitting out on deck if sunny, and wandering inside the ship. I had a glance at the costume jewellery but it was all the same as usual and very high-priced. I did manage to see and photograph three sea turtles which I have never seen before on this coastline. At 1 o'clock I joined Caryll for lunch in Alfresco's after which she went off to play quoits and I came back down to the cabin. It was so windy I really needed to do something with my bird's nest of my hair. I also started packing the holdall, getting a head start on some of the stuff I knew I wouldn’t need now till I got home.

 Saturday 22 October – Southampton

Oriana returned home early that morning. We had breakfast in the Conservatory, disembarking around 9am. It had been another lovely cruise on my favourite ship. She had taken us over 6249nm to visit some of the most beautiful ports in the Adriatic. I look forward to seeing the changes as she heads off for a well-earned refit although not for a while as my next two cruises are on Aurora and Adonia.