Aurora World Cruise - Mumbai to Singapore

Friday 3 February at sea

Weather: Dry, moderate visibility
Temperature: 28C
Wind: Light airs
Sea state: Slight

On this morning I have been hypnotised by the sight of Booby Birds diving for the flying fish escaping from our wake. Other wildlife I have seen from my favourite spot on the promenade deck includes turtles, dolphins, whales, sharks, albatross, and a myriad of other seabirds.

 

Saturday 4 February – Cochin

Weather: Dry, good visibility, clear skies
Temperature: 32C
Wind: Light airs

We arrived in Cochin on a beautifully sunny if hazy morning. We passed the well-known Chinese fishing nets on both sides of the ship. Ferries were criss-crossing the water full of schoolchildren all waving and cheering us and, as we neared the port itself three dolphins jumped up to greet us.

It was all very picturesque but unfortunately our home for the day was a busy container port! This was mitigated somewhat by a huge array of colourful stalls on the quayside. I had booked to see the Backwaters of Kerala on a traditional houseboat, while my friend was doing a similar trip but on a modern, larger boat.

I had a leisurely start to the day as my tour wasn’t due to leave until 11am. I wandered ashore about 10.15 to look at the stalls, only to see our coach pull up. We were allowed to board and able to leave early as everyone else soon arrived. We drove one and a half hours out to the backwaters of Alappuzha through villages and towns. While not quiet the worst traffic I have seen there was noise, bustle, three-four lanes of traffic on roads built for two, lovely decorated lorries and buses – all the chaos and colour that is India.

Once at the houseboat moorings, we walked along a rough towpath to our boat. Here was my first problem! Having found this coach relatively easy to climb into and having lots of legroom on the journey, I struggled to raise my left leg high enough to clamber over the very high threshold into the boat! However, two Indian crewmembers came to the rescue, who forcibly pushed my leg up and I was in. It was a lovely hotel-style boat with large en-suite bedrooms (we could use the toilets there), a large dining room with snacks and drinks laid out for us, and an open-fronted lounge area.
Traditionally, the houseboat was called Kettuvallam, which means a boat made by tying together pieces of wood. Unbelievable as it may sound, not a single nail is used in the making of a Kettuvallam. Jack wood planks are joined together with coir rope and then coated with black resin made from boiled cashew nut shells. The materials that go into the making are all local and Eco friendly bamboo poles, coconut fiber ropes, bamboo mats, coir carpets etc These traditional country boats were used as the mode of transport in the early times from the isolated interior villages to the towns.. But these boat services have been laid off with the developments taken place in the transport services in the recent past. Today these giant 80-foot long crafts have been adapted into luxuriously furnished houseboats. http://www.bens-holidays.com/kerala-houseboats.html

We set on a fascinating journey through local life on the waterways – women doing the washing, men cutting down coconuts, fishermen, rice paddies and a wealth of bird life including an Indian Oriole, Terns and Cranes. All around us were other houseboats, shop boats, canoes and ferries. Boats full of children passed us cheering and waving, on another boat a stag party was taking place – obviously going well!

After two and a half hours we arrived back where we started. Once again I needed help to get out of the boat onto a narrow plank to the shore, along the tow path and up some steep uneven concrete steps to where the coach was waiting. We took the same route back to Cochin with one notable stop. The guide suddenly announced that he had spotted preparations taking place at a Temple to mark Thrissur Pooram, an annual Keralan Hindu festival. As it was not part of the tour we could go and watch but at our own risk. Of course I wanted to go and see, not just for the music and drums but because they were leading in five decorated elephants, with bells round their feet, golden headdresses and ridden by mahouts holding silk parasols. We walked across a deeply-sanded arena to the exterior of the temple where holy men were chanting and singing. It was totally magical and other-worldly and the highlight of my day.

 

 
 

On our return to the ship, we had time to browse the stalls, where I bought an embroidered elephant cushion cover to remember the day by. We stood up on deck for sailaway, past the Chinese fishing nets again, where the dolphins were playing the water as they did when we arrived. Then it was time for a quick shower and dinner before bed.

Sunday 5 February at sea

Weather: Dry, good visibility, clear skies
Temperature: 27C
Wind: Force 6
Sea state: Moderate

As usual a lazy sea day after the exertions in Cochin. I had breakfast out on the Pennant bar with Joey from Australia. As it was overcast much of the morning and very windy, I spent some time downloading photos from Mumbai and Kerala and backing them up. I also began to transcribe this blog. Went up for lunch with Caryll, again outdoors. Once the sun broke through I went to my usual spot on the promenade deck until it was time to wash my hair ready for the formal night tonight. One we were ready for dinner we went to the jewellery shop event with free “blue” champagne. The seas were a little choppy and the restaurant looked a little empty but we had a fun evening. We did spot one lady trying to enter wearing shorts and a t-shirt with a black shawl over the top but we think she was looking for someone – not staying! After dinner I went to the cabin to prepare everything for Colombo tomorrow. We have a very early start!

Monday 6 February – Colombo

Weather: Dry, good visibility, clear skies Temperature: 28C
Wind: Force 3

I set the alarm for 6am as we are on a tour to Galle today and have to muster in the Curzon Theatre at 7.45am. We were ready at 7.30 so went to the theatre and were soon called to go down. The coach soon filled up and we set off through a small part of Colombo and then out into the countryside. We had a journey of about 2 hours, through villages and small towns to Galle in the south east of the island. We passed rubber and tea plantations and paddy fields with water buffalo.

We had a brief stop at a motorway service area for a comfort break, arriving in Galle at about 10am. Our first stop was at the local market were we had free time to wander the stalls and marvel at some of the weird fish.

Walking a cow!

Then we drove to the Dutch Fort. This is a UNESCO World Heritage Site – an enclosed walled town first built in 1588 and the largest remaining fort in Asia. Sadly for me, the Dutch Church was closed. I had particularly wanted to see the memorial for Mrs Twynam, erected by the staff of P&O. Mrs Twynam was the wife of the first P&O Agent in Galle.

We set off on a walking tour, past the maritime museum and old Dutch hospital to a view point up a very steep short slope to the top of the ramparts. I had to be helped up that and then down again! Next was a small private museum with gem-cutters etc so that was interesting, even if they did try to sell us sapphires!

 

Then a walk further along to the lighthouse and up onto the ramparts. The view of the clear turquoise water was entrancing but there was no shade and I was starting to feel the heat. We finished by walking across a grassy field where schoolchildren were rehearsing a performance of some kind, step over a  wide concrete storm gully and then up a long slope towards the clocktower.

After taking some photos of the clock I gave in and said I’d sit in the shade but the guide said the coach was just round the corner so while the others walked further along the ramparts, I collapsed into the air-conditioned coach and drank a bottle of water! I soon felt better and when everyone else came back we drove to a hotel for lunch. I have to say I was not happy that we then had to walk up to the third floor for our food and there was no lift! It was a western-style buffet with soft drinks. The drink was very welcome but I don’t think any of us were particularly hungry. I saw on a table with speaker Sir Robin Knox-Johnson. Downstairs there was a large showroom where my eye alighted on a carved wooden Kite (bird) that balanced and turned on a wooden stand. It was beautiful and now adorns my lounge! After lunch we set off back the same way to Aurora. As we neared the dock I spotted another bird, with bright red beak and legs and buff colour back and chest. I have no idea what it was but it was very striking. The traffic then became very bad, partly due to it being rush hour but also because some politicians were visiting and had a motor convoy.

 

We eventually arrived at the ship about 6.30pm. I browsed the few stalls that were there before I decided to go and shower. Caryll then rushed in to say that there was a folk dance performance taking place in Carmen’s so I threw on some clothes and went off to watch.

 

Then it was time for dinner. Once again I was given a doggy bag of after dinner chocolates to bring back to the cabin – bless Joseph and Jebb! It was a lovely day but very tiring and I retired to bed after dinner.

 Tuesday 7 – Thursday 9 February at sea

Weather: Dry, good visibility, clear skies
Temperature: 28C
Wind: Force 2
Sea state: Slight

Three relaxing sea days. Spent some time getting up to date downloading photos, otherwise spent them much as I do any sea day in this hot, calm weather – on deck!

Friday 10 February – Penang, Malaysia

Weather: Dry, good visibility, 6/8 cloud
Temperature: 29C
Wind: Force 4

We arrived quite early and, as I looked out of the widow, I spotted a cruise ship I had never seen before – she was Star Cruises Star Libra.

Also docked was MS Leisure World (ex NCL Skyward), a gambling ship. After breakfast we set off on foot from the terminal, heading first towards Fort Cornwallis, up to the war memorial and then turning left past the Colonial-style Town Hall and up the narrow streets full of Chinese temples and shop-houses – Lebuh King and Penang Streets.

 

 

It was very picturesque and interesting. After a while we found a small local café and had cold drinks (and free Wi-Fi!) before setting off again to the famous Clan Jetties. These old wharfs are full of small stalls selling souvenirs etc.

 

After exploring those I was seriously wilting in the high temperature and equally high humidity so we caught the free CAT (Central Area Transit) bus to a large air-conditioned shopping mall. We had a look around, had a snack in Starbucks and then I left Caryll to it and caught the shuttle back to the ship. By the time Caryll returned and we had both gone to watch the Chinese/Indian/Malaysian folk dancers in Carmen’s, we only had half an hour to get ready for dinner. It is a Tropical Night with deck party later. After dinner we went out on deck to watch the sailaway.

There was an announcement from the captain that we would be arriving in Singapore early (midnight tomorrow) to maximise time as divers had to be sent down to inspect the hull. This was routine but naturally all sorts of conspiracy theories soon circulated over the ship!

Saturday 11 February at sea (Malacca Strait)

Weather: Showers, good visibility
Temperature: 29C
Wind: Force 4
Sea state: Slight

My usual relaxing sea day routine, aside from a laundry day.

Sunday 12 February - Singapore

Weather: Rain, moderate visibility, overcast
Temperature: 25C
Wind: Force 3

As planned we arrived around midnight. We got up at 8.30 and had a leisurely breakfast as we have to go through immigration and wanted to wait until the majority of the tours had gone first. We got off around 10.30 and walked to the Metro station and caught a rain to Raffles Place. From here we walked quite a bit – seeing the Boat Quay and around the Padang.

 

We then found a HoHo bus stop and caught it to the main hub at the Suntek Shopping Centre. After a browse and bite to eat we caught a Yellow Route bus. This has the longest and most interesting route, including Orchard Road and the Botanic Gardens. We were having to dodge heavy showers although I was reasonably sheltered on the left side of the bus. We then returned to Suntec City and switched to a Red Route bus to see Chinatown and Little India before again returning and finding a place to eat. Chinatown was colourfully decorated for their New Year celebrations.

 

Our intention was to catch the Green Route shuttle to the Gardens by the Bay at 6.30. Once we arrived there was walked to the Supertree Grove for the 7.45pm free Rhapsody Show. Fortunately the weather was dry now and the show utterly spectacular and lasted around 10-15 minutes, the trees changing colour in time with the music.

 

 

When it finished we had to find the Metro Station. This was not easy in the seething crowds and involved a great deal of walking and various lifts – at one point we ended up in the Marina Bay Sands Hotel! Having found the Station we got lost and took the first train the wrong way, once on the right one it stopped at Marina Bay and we had to wait for another to go to the next stop – the South Pier. Then we were faced with the longish walk from the Metro to the Cruise Terminal – we got back to the ship at 10pm! My heel was very painful indeed and I decided to go straight to bed.