Aurora World Cruise - Petra to Dubai

Sunday 22 January at sea

Weather: Dry, good visibility, clear skies
Temperature: 25C
Wind: Force 4
Sea state: Slight

A very lazy day in the warm sun doing not much at all after the exertions of yesterday. We did however go to the Champagne Waterfall that evening. Hmmm - free champagne.......

Monday 23 January at sea

Weather: Dry, good visibility, clear skies, haze
Temperature: 27C
Wind: Light airs
Sea state: Slight

This afternoon I have an interview with Captain Andrew Hall about world cruising for my book, so I’m having a mostly relaxing day otherwise. At 10am this morning we had a full crew and passenger pirate drill. At a given signal – `Attention Attention, Security Alert’ and two blasts on the ship’s emergency alarm, we had to return to our cabins. Those with inside cabins may stay in them but the rest of us had to stand or sit in the corridor and be accounted for by the stewards. Meanwhile other crew got to practice with the high-pressure hoses rigged all along the promenade deck. The ship will now be blacked out as much as possible each night and we are banned from some outside decks after dusk for about a week as Aurora sails round the horn of Africa where there is the highest risk from Somali pirates. About 1pm we had a rendezvous with the ex-trawler Centurion who sent over three large wooden boxes of guns and ammunition (or personal armaments as the Hotel General Manager called them) in a RIB. There was no secrecy about it as they were hauled up by rope.

I had a light lunch in the Pennant Bar with friends. As Centurion approached one of them invited us to watch from her balcony on Deck 10. Afterwards she went off to her salsa class and my cabin mate went to play quoits. It had been a gloriously hot sunny day with cloudless sky. At 3pm I went to meet the Captain. After the interview I sat out again for a while before coming in to do some work on the computer and shower before my friend comes back – she has gone to the cinema to watch Bridget Jones’ Baby. It is casual tonight.

Tuesday 24 January at sea

Weather: Dry, good visibility, clear skies
Temperature: 27C
Wind: Force 6
Sea state: Slight

A nice lazy day again. There was quite a breeze across the decks but this made the high temperatures pleasant rather than overly hot. Had breakfast outdoors again before going to the solos meeting – the first time for several days. After some time chatting, I sat out on the promenade deck until it was time to change for our World Cruise Lunch at 12 noon, although since the clocks were put forward one hour at noon (the last time before Dubai) it was actually 1pm. We were on a table of six hosted by Kristal, the port presenter. It was a delicious meal with plenty of wine and truffles to finish. Afterwards, fully replete, we managed to get back to the cabin, change again and collapse on the prom. deck again to sleep it all off for a couple of hours or so! Today is one of the days we have decided to buy a 24 hour internet package so around 4.30pm I came inside to the cabin to check emails and financial accounts. My friend also thought it might be a good time to do some laundry and since there were two machines empty we did a load each. By the time we had finished it was time to change for dinner – casual tonight. I stuck to a light salad and vegetarian option after our lunch. I decided against the quiz tonight as my hip is sore from twisting it in the bathroom so it was back to the cabin to send some emails.

Wednesday 25 January at sea

Weather: Dry, good visibility, 6/8ths cloud
Temperature: 24C
Wind: Force 4
Sea state: Slight

Our last sea day before Oman and Salalah. At 10.30 we had a World Cruise Coffee Morning with the Captain and officers. Unfortunately we were on a table with an elderly lady who didn’t like the ship, the itinerary or the line! I couldn’t stop myself asking why on earth she had booked it but she said it the first world cruise that came to hand after cancelling one with Cruise & Maritime. After my many negative experiences with them I have to wonder what she might have thought of CMV! Afterwards I sat out on deck and watched a tanker testing their anti-piracy hoses. It was windy but nice and warm. Our own anti-piracy precautions are in full swing with watchmen continually patrolling the promenade deck with high-power binoculars (aided by the many passengers too!). Tonight is Burns Night and I had a spectacular dinner of haggis, lobster and clootie dumpling. Then it was the syndicate quiz, where we might have won, had the others not vetoed my answers of Cyclops being the electronic eye at Wimbledon and Welsh being the third language on British coinage!

Thursday 26 January – Salalah, Oman

Weather: Dry, good visibility, clear skies
Temperature: 27C
Wind: Force 4

Woke up at 7.30 to find us turning round in the harbour in Salalah.  Out of the window was a nice view – not – of container ships and cranes - and an old Arab dhow!. We are on a tour at 9.30 so will see then what this port has to offer.

Well, we had a lovely day in this bleak and desert-like but fascinating area. We began by going to a Frankincense Souk where I bought some oil and also crystals that you can burn. All the locals were friendly and allowed me to take photos, even a lady dressed in a full black burka.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oman is the land of frankincense and we later saw a tree from which the resin is extracted. The air was fragrant with large burners outside every shop or stall. Next it was to the excavated ruins of the Queen of Sheba’s palace, situated in a big archaeological park on a creek. It was where, in time past, frankincense was stored and exported. There were fabulous views.

 

 

I declined to go inside due to rough stony ground underfoot, but this gave me more time to walk right round the exterior. Next was Taqah Castle – a small fort with rooms laid out with weapons, handicrafts etc. In the centre was a courtyard with a Frankincense tree.

Our guide showed us how this is harvested by hitting it on the top of a branch, letting the resin ooze and harden, and then collecting it. Our final stop was at the Ain Razat springs – a natural river fed by many springs coming out of the limestone rock.

I photographed a beautiful dragonfly, butterflies and some small yellowish birds (Graceful Prinia?), all attracted by the green oasis. On the way we passed small villages and the odd grazing camel. We got back to Aurora about 2.30, very dusty and hot from the desert but it had been a lovely excursion – we’d seen camels grazing by the roadside, banana plantations, a huge bird of prey with wide dark wings with a white line along that I need to look up (possibly a Steppe Eagle), small encampments, markets and scattered towns. It is an inhospitable country, climate and landscape wise, but the people were not as guarded and anti-western as we had been led to believe. I spent the afternoon sitting in the lovely hot sun before changing for a casual night.

Friday 27 January at sea

Weather: Dry, good visibility, clear skies
Temperature: 24C
Wind: Force 3
Sea state: Slight

Another lazy day – I’m getting very used to these. I went to the solos meet this morning before sitting out on deck. I know this is dolphin country so I was armed with my Nikon 5500 and telephoto zoom lens. I popped in for lunch and as I was coming back out to the prom deck there was a slapping sound and a huge pod of dolphins were leaping and spinning along both sides of the ship from the stern. There must have been hundreds – including mums and babies – doing spectacular acrobatics, some of which I managed to capture on my camera. I think they may have been Spinner Dolphins as I have never seen spinning turns before from any other dolphins I have spotted.

I stayed out another two hours before I had to come as I had arranged to chat with the Inventory Manager and Exec. Chef for my book.  They generously gave me an hour of their time after which I returned to the cabin to download all my photos so far and start numbering those from Salalah. My friend was already in the cabin so she showered whilst I carried on, then I got ready too and we had a cocktail in Anderson’s before dinner - another lovely evening with some great food and the Parade of the Chefs. I have to admit it is slightly odd with all the end-of-cruise activities and events going on knowing we have barely begun our adventure and don’t disembark for months yet. We will lose half the table and I wonder who we will get to replace our new friends. Went to bed after dinner as quite tired and wanted to get my bag ready for Muscat tomorrow.

Saturday 28 January – Muscat, Oman

Weather: Dry, good visibility, clear skies
Temperature: 27C
Wind: Light airs

We were up early as we are on a tour leaving at 9.00. we had breakfast outdoors behind the Horizon Buffet when we noticed what looked like two small cruise ships – we discovered later that they were two of the five private yachts belonging to the Sultan of Oman!

 

By the time we had finished breakfast Thomson Celebration had berthed opposite us. We went down to board our coach – once again, not the easiest to climb into! Our first stop was at the Grand Mosque, where, suitably covered up (ladies had to cover arms to the wrist and all hair was to be hidden) we walked to the marble flagstones and left our shoes in the cubby holes provided. Once we passed inspection by women stationed at the door, we entered first the women’s prayer hall and then the main hall.

It is the largest mosque in the world and can hold 20,000 worshippers. Overhead is a huge Swarovski chandelier weighing several tons. It was an awe-inspiring piece of architecture. Next we had some free time to explore the Muttrah Souk. This was a real treasure trove much like the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul.

I bought an embroidered cushion and a lovely pashmina with camels on.  Then to the Bait al Zubair museum, outside of which were beautiful butterflies and hummingbirds and inside, the history of the area.

 

Finally the official Sultan’s Palace, flanked by two old Portuguese forts. We arrived back around 2.15 and sat out on deck for the afternoon. Thomson Celebration left before us so we took some photos of her and then stayed on deck as we left. The huge landmark incense burner was floodlit as we sailed past. Then came in and changed for dinner. We didn’t bother with the quiz but went to bed.

 

Sunday 29 January – Dubai

Weather: Dry, good visibility, clear skies
Temperature: 26C
Wind: Force 3

We are not arriving until 1pm so went to the solos meet to say goodbye to those departing today. After a quick early lunch we were on the Sun Deck for our arrival into Dubai. The skyline was spectacular with the Burg Kalifa standing tall like a space needle. What tore at my heart though was the sight of the beautiful QE2, which I had been assured I wouldn’t see, there in front of us in a new berth!

Despite being fast alongside we couldn’t go ashore until we had been through immigration which in our case was 3pm! This left too little time to do anything before our evening excursion to the Burg al Arab. In the end we sat in the cruise terminal trying to access the free wifi with no success. At 4pm we came back and changed for our tour of sundowners at the Sky Bar of the Burg al Arab Hotel. This is the only 7* hotel and very exclusive if OTT. We were led through an amazing lobby with walls of aquaria and waterfalls down the centre between the escalators. Then we were taken up in scenic lifts to a lounge with gallery. The only views were from the gallery but our drinks and canapes were on the lower level and there was no seating so a bit disappointing.

 

 

After an hour there we re-boarded the coach and drove to the Dubai Mall which we walked through to the Burg Kalifa fountains just in time to watch the musical display. Although only about 5 mins long it was very beautiful.

Then it was time to return to the ship. Unfortunately due to horrendous traffic, we were 45mins late for dinner, although they kindly allowed us in to have a main course and dessert. Others we heard were turned away – always make friends with your waiters and maitre d’!! After dinner we went to a show with a local folklore group and I got to see whirling dervishes at last, together with Arabic dancing etc. It was brilliant. We then said our goodbyes to our new friends and went to bed. We have two days in Dubai so more exploring tomorrow.