Today I stood in the Grotto in the Church of the Nativity at Bethlehem and we sang Silent Night!
As the coach was leaving on my tour to Jerusalem and Bethlehem at 7.30am I was up early. We left on time for the two hour drive to the Holy City. It was surreal in many ways driving through towns and mountains referred to in the Bible. We first drove to the Mount of Olives for a view over to the old city of Jerusalem and the Garden of Gethsemane. It was a magic and beautiful moment, despite the man trying to sell us camel rides and postcards!
We then boarded the coach again to drive to the Garden of Gethsemane where we walked past the ancient olive trees to the church. In front of the altar was a large flat stone, polished by the touch of centuries of hands, said to be the place where Jesus lay on his last night of freedom. Next stop was the Western Wall where we got off for 2½ hours walking through the old city. As it was Saturday and the Sabath, there was no photography allowed at the Western Wall. However, we were told we could take pictures if we were discreet about it. The wall was much smaller in width that I had imagined and is divided between men and women. I had brought a scarf and so walked up to touch the wall. It was odd, but on this hot day with the sun beating against the wall, it was very cold to the touch and gave off a strange aura of peace. I was not the only one who noticed it. Those who wished left prayer messages in the cracks between the stones.
We then set off to walk through the Arab Bazaar and part of the Via Dolorosa, stopping at stages 3, 5 and 6 of the cross. It was like stepping back in time, walking the polished marble cobbles, under ancient arches, past stalls selling pomegranates, spices, incense and foods, but all mixed in with modern clothes, souvenirs and electrical goods! The overpowering sensations were the smells – heavy, sweet and very old – and the sheer numbers of local people going about their business.
We arrived at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, walked into the chapel built on Golgotha, touched the stone where Jesus’ body was laid out, and admired the huge wooden tomb built over the place where Jesus was buried.
After such an overload of images and feelings, we went for lunch, after which we drove out to Bethlehem, in Palestine. This involved crossing the checkpoint. On the journey the guide put on some music and at the checkpoint the whole coach was loudly joining in with singing the Holy City, when the guard came on board and hastily left laughing!Bethlehem is a tatty, bustling, modern Palestinian town but the visit made my cruise. We entered the Church of the Nativity, bending down to step through the low entrance door built by the Crusaders.
The main church is Greek Orthodox and a service was in progress with the plainsong, incense and candlelight transforming the building into a glowing golden mass of colour from the icons. A visit to the Grotto was not included in our tour, but as we were the only coach there at first, we were allowed to enter. Through another chapel filled with icons, we climbed down fourteen steps into the cave where the spot of Jesus’ birth is marked by a star in the floor. Each of us knelt to touch the star and then move round to the back of the cave, when the guide suggested we sing a Carol as it was nearing Christmas and so we broke into a verse of Silent Night and O Come all ye Faithful in this, the place where it all began. Even the most atheist among us felt the power of the moment.
We then had the long drive back to Haifa, not helped by having to stop on the hard shoulder at one point as the driver said there was a problem with the coach overheating. Back at the port he entered at the wrong gate and we had a ½ hour stuck in the coach while a battle of wits took place as to where he should be and why couldn’t they open that gate! He lost!
I arrived back in my cabin at 7.50pm just in time to shower and go to open sitting dinner! I am exhausted and my feet swollen but it has been the most magic of days.Tomorrow – Nazareth and Galilee!
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